Over Tightened Lug Nuts - Warped Rotors? (1 Viewer)

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Oriental, NC
Scenerio – 100 is driving great. No steering wheel shake at all. Then you take it in for a tire rotation and the guys over tighten the lug nuts and warp the rotors. Now when I apply the brakes the steering wheel shakes.

Have you run into the issue of mechanics over tightening your lug nuts and then the rotors get warped? This has happened to me twice at the same shop. Both times, I have specifically asked them not to over tighten the lug nuts. They paid the first time and they will pay again. I continue to go back because I know the guy and he does the right thing.

How do you guys keep this from happening?

Thanks,

uzj100
 
I've had that happen on a couple of 4runners and since those incidents I retorque anytime my wheels are touched by a shop. That goes for every vehicle I own not just the 100.
 
Even if they overtighten. Can I re-torque before I drive off and un do the damage they have done? Or maybe keep a torque wrench in the car and make sure they us that to put the lug nutz back on.

uzj100
 
I could be off on my theory but I don't think the serious warping happens immediately when overtorqued. It happens when the rotors heat up and the lug nuts are overtorqued. I drive a little lighter on the brakes taking the vehicle home and then retorque. I have not had any warping issues on any vehicles since I started that procedure. 97ft/lb BTW
 
I don't see how over-torquing the lug nuts would have anything to do w/ warping the rotors. I mean, the wheel is bolted to the hub itself rather than the rotor, right? For the rotor to warp, wouldn't the lug nuts have to be so tight and uneven in pressure distribution that the hub itself would become warped? And if that happened, wouldn't the bearing races also distort in shape?
 
Upon further thought, serious overtorquing definitely could warp a rotor right away. I just bought a Craftsman impact wrench for swapping sets of tires quicker and that puppy can churn out 350ft/lb off of 90psi!!! That would def. monkey up some studs and rotors. Of course I only use the impact wrench for removal and snugging. Then I do the final torquing with a torque wrench.
 
Yes it will warp the rotors. I have had this happen twice now. First resolution was go to Toyota and have new front rotors put on. The shake went away.

The torque number is like 97/lbs of torque. Not much at all.

I will be checking ebay for new rotors if this guy does not off some cash.

uzj100
 
TAD;
This does happen, almost everytime I let some bozo do the wheels. You may have to retrain to wheel guys. Alloys torque to around 85ft/lbs; with a torque wrench. I set mine at 75 or so with a little wd40 on the threads.

I've had the peddle pulse on my FJ40 and FZJ80 because of improper nut torquing...

David in Denver
 
dfmorse said:
TAD;
Alloys torque to around 85ft/lbs; with a torque wrench. I set mine at 75 or so with a little wd40 on the threads.

Too loose is also a bad situation. You can cause damage to your wheels and hubs as well as a major safety issue if a wheel came off. Tighten to 97 ft/lbs and you won't have any problems.
 
I think the only cure is to replace the rotors. Is that correct? That sucks because otherwise the rotors are in great shape.

uzj100
 
You could always let a shop take a stab at turning and grinding them to save a few bucks. I've had it work well the first time and didn't help at all the second time.

I've always used 97ft/lb's w/o problem, I think the manual even recommends 97 but that could be copied and pasted by some Word jockey. Why are alloys 85? Difference in expansion coefficients?
 
The Toyota dealer overtorqued mine. I bent my lug wrench getting them off! They were that bad! My air impact wrench barely got them off. MORONS at Toyota Mall of Georgia.
 
the solution, buy a jack and some axle stands, do your own rotations. sorry but paying for a tire rotation isn't very sporting.

The name of the game, if you can't trust the mechanic to do the work correctly do it yourself.
 
Fortunately I have never had the problem happen to me, I book the vehicle in and stay with it and make sure the nuts are only done up finger tight then manually do them all up myself with the standard Toyota bar, that way I, (or my wife) can get them off if we need to. Something to watch out for is to make sure you wash or scrape any dirt off the back of the rim and of the wheel hub(most shops don't) because when they come off then go back on they don't go back in the exact same place (even if they aren't being rotated) and a little dirt gets behind the rim at one point. The nuts are then done up and the rim is slightly twisted and pulled due to the non flat surface, also effects the hub. Also make sure to wash off any mud or dirt around the rim, many a time I have seen wheels balanced with dirt chunks around the rim, so as soon as the dirt falls off the wheels are out of balance again.
 
Typically, warped rotors happen from varying torque on each of the lugs. Not so much overtightening. Overtightening will only stretch the stud into the elastic/plastic region of the fastener. I ALWAYS torque lugs with a torque wrench. The number isn't as important as the amount on each.
 

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