mongoose2231
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- #601
Hey man!! You need to come visit man... i still owe you a few beers dude!!
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Builds Out with the old and in with the new!(turboed 2h!) (3 Viewers)
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I don't know if this is the problem but it's worth a try.
The only time I've had brakes dragging badly on a 60, the problem was the master cylinder. It would hold pressure after a few miles of driving. The back brakes would then drag like crazy and the rears were smoking hot.
It's pretty easy to check.
Drive until you can feel the brakes dragging.
Jack it up and find which wheel/s front or rear are tight or locked.
On a wheel that's dragging, quickly open the bleed nipple.
If there is a spurt of brake fluid from the nipple and that wheel now turns freely, the master cylinder is holding pressure in the system.
Hope you get it sorted.
The only time I've had brakes dragging badly on a 60, the problem was the master cylinder. It would hold pressure after a few miles of driving. The back brakes would then drag like crazy and the rears were smoking hot.
It's pretty easy to check.
Drive until you can feel the brakes dragging.
Jack it up and find which wheel/s front or rear are tight or locked.
On a wheel that's dragging, quickly open the bleed nipple.
If there is a spurt of brake fluid from the nipple and that wheel now turns freely, the master cylinder is holding pressure in the system.
Hope you get it sorted.
mongoose2231
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Thanks for the reply. I replaced the master with a OEM unit a couple yeras back. The brakes do not drag from the start, they start dragging after using them a while. It's the fronts that do, and it has done it since i replaced the calipers. I will see if i can get this sorted.
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Hi. Problem is at the master. Check that the pushrod adjustment is within spec. If it is, follow steps to bleed the master.
If neither of these solve the problem, replace the master.
If neither of these solve the problem, replace the master.
mongoose2231
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If the problem was at the master, would't the brakes be dragging from the get go, meaning the pads would be engaged ever so slightly right from the start. I can feel it when the brakes start to drag. They begin dragging after some use. I will however check the master. Cheers
No. It wouldn’t necessarily drag from the start. If the rod is adjusted wrong the master will hold pressure. That pressure can bleed off after a few minutes.
So now your driving it, brakes are dragging and getting hot. That causes increased friction.
Check the pushrod. FSM has the specs for adjustment.
So now your driving it, brakes are dragging and getting hot. That causes increased friction.
Check the pushrod. FSM has the specs for adjustment.
mongoose2231
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Ok, I will look into that. Thanks
Good thing to check, but if the master cylinder pushrod was adjusted too tight, the brakes would never release.
Again, I would avoid rebuilding calipers, and just buy new ones.
Again, I would avoid rebuilding calipers, and just buy new ones.
mongoose2231
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OK, I guess I will make another attempt at rebuilding before I throw money at aftermarket calipers again.
Calipers aren't that difficult to rebuild. It's seals and pistons...easy, one would think. If they fail yet again to function properly, I will throw in the towel and buy another set. On another note, when I replaced the MC I never touched the rod. I doubt it would come out of adjustment. I guess we shall see.
Calipers aren't that difficult to rebuild. It's seals and pistons...easy, one would think. If they fail yet again to function properly, I will throw in the towel and buy another set. On another note, when I replaced the MC I never touched the rod. I doubt it would come out of adjustment. I guess we shall see.
When you replace the MC, you need to adjust the clevis that's on the pushrod, that connects to the pedal. This needs to be done, even if your new MC comes with a clevis. So, if you didn't do any adjustment when you installed the MC, that's something that needs to be at least checked.
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mongoose2231
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Ok, thats great advice. Will check on that.
My bet is still that it is the master cylinder not the calipers.
The test that I described in my post above will very quickly determine if there is a problem with the master.
The dragging can happen with either front or rear brakes.
Here it is again.
"It's pretty easy to check.
Drive until you can feel the brakes dragging.
Jack it up and find which wheel/s front or rear are tight or locked.
On a wheel that's dragging, quickly open the bleed nipple.
If there is a spurt of brake fluid from the nipple and that wheel now turns freely, the master cylinder is holding pressure in the system."
The test that I described in my post above will very quickly determine if there is a problem with the master.
The dragging can happen with either front or rear brakes.
Here it is again.
"It's pretty easy to check.
Drive until you can feel the brakes dragging.
Jack it up and find which wheel/s front or rear are tight or locked.
On a wheel that's dragging, quickly open the bleed nipple.
If there is a spurt of brake fluid from the nipple and that wheel now turns freely, the master cylinder is holding pressure in the system."
mongoose2231
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I will proceed with this test this evening. I will report findings.
mongoose2231
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Been a few since last events. Everything is sorted and in good working order. Took vehicle for inspection and failed due to broken windshield. Funny how I passed inspection all of the last 5 years without anyone noticing. I scheduled an appointment with Safelite, which was way too expensive ($500.00) then found a local guy, which was more palatable at $300.00, and then, found a good original Toyota glass on my friends spare truck. I guess I'll be doing the glass my self and saving some coin. Here are some pics from the prep process. Found a bit of rust on the top left corner. Looks like at some point that corner was touched. Anyway, here are a couple pics of the prep. I will be attempting to get the windshield in over the weekend. Will post pics of the process as I go along, and of course, share the pains of doing this yourself rather than hiring a pro.
mongoose2231
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I am going to pickup some window sealant form the dealer if i can find it, if not will order online. I will also need to pickup some locking strip and the special tool online. Will be searching on here to find the size of it, unless someone knows of the top of their heads. Otherwise, I will measure the Toyota one and try matching it.
It's been a month, how are you not going to tell us what you did with the brakes?
You don't need to glue the windshield in place. Use Wagongear's window welting and you won't have any leaks.
wagongear.com
You don't need to glue the windshield in place. Use Wagongear's window welting and you won't have any leaks.
wagongear.com » Window Welt
wagongear.com
mongoose2231
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Thanks for the link bud. I will explain the brake fix shortly. Cheers.
mongoose2231
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OK, so the brake issue has been resolved by simply pulling the calipers yet again and rebuilding the old spares that I had sitting around. I do not have any pics handy but you get the drill. I never installed new soft lines as mine seemed to be OK, plus the new ones were made in china. Wasted money on those....Tsk Tsk...
So long story short, I have to install the windshield and of course, since I cooked the rotors, I am now going o start a front axle rebuild. with a kit from Kurt. It should be pretty easy, since I have already done this once before on my other truck. Possibly another couple months before this is going back on the road. On the plus side, it will be pretty damn good, mechanically speaking.
So long story short, I have to install the windshield and of course, since I cooked the rotors, I am now going o start a front axle rebuild. with a kit from Kurt. It should be pretty easy, since I have already done this once before on my other truck. Possibly another couple months before this is going back on the road. On the plus side, it will be pretty damn good, mechanically speaking.
mongoose2231
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Took 30 minutes this morning to install my windshield. It had been prepped two days prior and was sitting in my basement on my work bench. Never having done this, I was a little worried but it all turned out ok. I just have to wait for the felt to arrive from wagon gear, and I'll install that as well. Other than that, meh, not too big a deal. I expected worse but I guess I was worried for nothing. I used a 3m adhesive in the glass channel and I have some 3m sikaflex equivalent to squirt between gasket and body. The manual only specified use of it on canadian models only. I'll install the locking strip first and then I'll check for leaks. My biggest problem is that I have no idea how the rear view mirror was on, that clip is troublesome, but there are only 4 ways to get that in, so I will figure it out.
I only have like a coupl3 pics.
I only have like a coupl3 pics.
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mongoose2231
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In the spirit of renewing things, ie. windshield and such, I decided to go ahead and take apart my wipers' linkage since it was so sloppy, the wipers were jumping off the windhield and slapping the cowl. My spare parts truck is turning out to be a small gold mine! I took the linkage out of that first to determine if it was usable. It turns out that it was in pretty good shape. I took apart all the joints, cleaned and greased the spindles and put it back together. I then removed my truck's linkage and it fell apart in my hands! Plastic bushings were gone especially at the motor side. I will let the pics do the talking.
