Out of no where, Flashing CEL, multiple misfire codes, stability lights and an engine knock (1 Viewer)

[leftfield6]

Was it just a coincidence that this happened right after the dealer oil change?

Best the shop that did the work could tell, it was just a coincidence. Proper oil and oil level confirmed, and they checked the oil filter as well. Obviously, no one can say with 100% certainty, but there was no "smoking gun" that indicated the oil change was a factor.

 

[leftfield6]

Well, we have another issue. Hopefully minor.

The shop did not reattach the bolt that holds the dipstick tube in place. Today, when the dipstick was pulled up it pulled the entire tube up and out. So, two questions, how hard to reattach? It it is a giant PITA, I'll take it back to the shop that left it unattached.

Which brings up question 2, am I safe to assume this should not be driven until the tube is reinserted? Honestly, I drove it about 4 miles today because otherwise I was stranded. No oil leaking.

 

[awesomeissquid]

Well that’s not great to have happen. Sorry you have to go through that.

Reattaching the tube with the engine installed should not be too difficult. Likely okay to drive on for short distances but it being open does allow contaminants to get into the oil. I would recommend not driving it to the shop and having them get it towed back in. I would also recommend asking them to provide another oil change since the current oil may have been contaminated (all at their cost since this is this there mistake).

 

[leftfield6]

Well that’s not great to have happen. Sorry you have to go through that.

Reattaching the tube with the engine installed should not be too difficult. Likely okay to drive on for short distances but it being open does allow contaminants to get into the oil. I would recommend not driving it to the shop and having them get it towed back in. I would also recommend asking them to provide another oil change since the current oil may have been contaminated (all at their cost since this is this there mistake).

Because they shop will not be open until Tuesday, I pulled into my garage this morning to see what I could do. Good news is that getting the tube back in place was easy once I pulled the left front wheel and a portion of the fender liner. I inserted a small rubber plug into the dipstick tube hole, cleaned around it with some brake cleaner, then wiped it down with paper towels. Then I inserted the tube into its proper spot. Good news is that by holding the tube in place and checking the oil on the dipstick, the oil is right at the top of the hatches area. Does not seem I lost any oil.

That’s the good news. The bad news is I’m not sure where the dipstick attachment point is. About 2/3 the way up the tube there is an obvious spot where a bolt needs to fasten to something on the motor. But I’m not seeing that line up with anything. I do see on the engine, an opening for a bolt that seems like it had something there before. But these two are Not in alignment. Am I missing a bracket here?

 

[awesomeissquid]

Because they shop will not be open until Tuesday, I pulled into my garage this morning to see what I could do. Good news is that getting the tube back in place was easy once I pulled the left front wheel and a portion of the fender liner. I inserted a small rubber plug into the dipstick tube hole, cleaned around it with some brake cleaner, then wiped it down with paper towels. Then I inserted the tube into its proper spot. Good news is that by holding the tube in place and checking the oil on the dipstick, the oil is right at the top of the hatches area. Does not seem I lost any oil.

That’s the good news. The bad news is I’m not sure where the dipstick attachment point is. About 2/3 the way up the tube there is an obvious spot where a bolt needs to fasten to something on the motor. But I’m not seeing that line up with anything. I do see on the engine, an opening for a bolt that seems like it had something there before. But these two are Not in alignment. Am I missing a bracket here?

View attachment 3048119

View attachment 3048120

View attachment 3048122

From my memory on my 2000 that looks like the correct hole that I used. Try spinning the tube a bit to see if you can get it to align. I recall on mine the 2000 dipstick tube was slight different from the 2003 one and I had to spin it a bit to get everything to align.

 

[leftfield6]

From my memory on my 2000 that looks like the correct hole that I used. Try spinning the tube a bit to see if you can get it to align. I recall on mine the 2000 dipstick tube was slight different from the 2003 one and I had to spin it a bit to get everything to align.

Because of the shape of the tube, it does not seem possible that that bracket that is welded to the tube can possibly get as close to the engine as it would need to to attach directly to that open threaded hole.

Just for clarification, is the oil dipstick tube routed between the engine and the exhaust manifold, or is it around the outside of the exhaust manifold? I currently have it around the outside. It seems like the shape of the tube indicates that.

 

[2001LC]

It will line up to the bolt hole near front of head.

You don't want the sand drop into pan.

So if replacing the O-ring that seals tube to pan.

Clean area really well, before pulling tube from oil pan.

Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem!

What is the ID size of the clear hose/tubing you used? Sorry just now saw this question. Anyway, I just now went out and measures OD of pipe coming from oil cooler behind grill. It's 12mm OD hard line. So a ~10mm ID would fit very tight. 11mm ID likely sung and 12mm ID my be a bit on loose side.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[leftfield6]

It will line up to the bolt hole near front of head.
View attachment 3048263

You don't want the sand drop into pan.
View attachment 3048264
So if replacing the O-ring that seal tube to pan.
View attachment 3048269
Clean area really well, before pulling tube from oil pan.
View attachment 3048266

Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem!

What is the ID size of the clear hose/tubing you used? Sorry just now saw this question. Anyway, I just now went out and measures OD of pipe coming from oil cooler behind grill. It's 12mm OD hard line. So a ~10mm ID would fit very tight. 11mm ID likely sung and 12mm ID my be a bit on loose side.

forum.ih8mud.com

The area around the tube was really clean even before I worked on getting the tube back in, so I think I'm good there, but I am going to get the shop to change oil after the repair is complete, just in case any particles fell in.

Does the oil tube route on the inside of the exhaust manifold?

 

[abuck99]

Good advice from @2001LC - replace the oring asap- I predict it will start leaking there soon otherwise.

Look at the parts diagram to see how it connects-

 

[2001LC]

The area around the tube was really clean even before I worked on getting the tube back in, so I think I'm good there, but I am going to get the shop to change oil after the repair is complete, just in case any particles fell in.

Does the oil tube route on the inside of the exhaust manifold?

No, not inside. It's near outside of exhaust manifold, but does not touch.

You'll find it easily rotates, which will line it up to bolt hole.

 

[leftfield6]

Okay, I've taken the smash shield off to reconsider this. Base on your pics, @2110LC, ir looks like the shop reattached a bracket in the wrong place. This the view from the top of the engine. Is that circled bracket/tab supposed to be there? There is no way for the dipstick tube tab to reach that bracket. Is that circled bracket supposed to be on one of the lower bolts visible through the wheel well?

Here are the pics from the wheel well, you can see the tab on the dipstick tube.

 

[awesomeissquid]

Okay, I've taken the smash shield off to reconsider this. Base on your pics, @2110LC, ir looks like the shop reattached a bracket in the wrong place. This the view from the top of the engine. Is that circled bracket/tab supposed to be there? There is no way for the dipstick tube tab to reach that bracket. Is that circled bracket supposed to be on one of the lower bolts visible through the wheel well?

Here are the pics from the wheel well, you can see the tab on the dipstick tube.

The bracket you circled in red is suppose to be where the AC hose clamp connects to. See my sketch in blue. It looks like you might be missing the clamp.

In the second picture, the bolt location you are looking for might be this one...
What is that bolt holding currently?

 

[leftfield6]

The bracket you circled in red is suppose to be where the AC hose clamp connects to. See my sketch in blue. It looks like you might be missing the clamp.

View attachment 3049166

In the second picture, the bolt location you are looking for might be this one...
What is that bolt holding currently?

View attachment 3049176

That bolt is the top most bolt on the exhaust header

The bracket you circled in red is suppose to be where the AC hose clamp connects to. See my sketch in blue. It looks like you might be missing the clamp.

View attachment 3049166

In the second picture, the bolt location you are looking for might be this one...
What is that bolt holding currently?

View attachment 3049176

the blue circled bolt is the topmost bolt for the exhaust header. Slightly to the rear of that bolt, and slightly above is a threaded hole in the cylinder head. Looks like something is supposed to be there. Problem is with the exhaust header in the way, no way the dipstick tube mates up directly to that.

 

[leftfield6]

Just noticed my original head is slightly different than my replacement head.

• Original head has a casting number to the rear of cylinder 1 that says L1, replacement head say L4
• Original head has a protruding part with a threaded hole at 11'o'clock position from cylinder 1 exhaust port. Replacement head has no such casting.
• Original head does NOT have a threaded hole at the 1'o'clock from cylinder 1 exhaust port.

 

[leftfield6]

This is my replacement head, casting mark L4, threaded hole in different place.

 

[awesomeissquid]

Interesting. Any details on what make/model the head came out of? I wonder if it might be a tundra or sequoia one and if they have a different dipstick tube arrangement.

Edit: If you have the VIN from the engine the head came from plug that into partsouq to see what the diagram shows for attachment.

 

[leftfield6]

Looks like the dipstick tube for the same year Tundra is different. Much longer tab at the mounting point.

2004 Toyota TUNDRA LIMITED 4700CC 32-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 5-SPEED COLUMN SHIFT Tube. Oil. Engine Dipstick. GUIDE, GAUGE - 1145250142 | Toyota Parts Overstock, Lakeland FL

Tube. Oil. Engine Dipstick. GUIDE, GAUGE. GUIDE, LEVEL GAG. 2005-07. 4.7 LITER. 2004 Toyota TUNDRA LIMITED 4700CC 32-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 5-SPEED COLUMN SHIFT. Genuine Toyota Part - 1145250142 (1110259027, 1145250141, 1110259026, 1110259025, 11452-50142). Ships from Toyota Parts Overstock...

parts.lakelandtoyota.com