Orion/Coal Mine Cruiser Classic

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by nasty habit, Jun 28, 2005.

  1. nasty habit

    nasty habit

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    Attended the Gotham City Coal Mine Cruiser Classic at Paragon Adventure Park last weekend. Good gathering-great grub saturday night-fun raffle-Thanks! Ran blue and black trails luvin' the non-usa 4 spd with the Orion. No glitches-Orion scores an A+. Dale in PA.
     
  2. John Smith

    John Smith In the garage

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    Do you have to use a bungee cord or other system to keep the transfercase from popping out of high-low? If not please share how you fixed that problem as I know Roger and Dan who were also there running Orions would love to know.
     
  3. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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  4. Blue77FJ40

    Blue77FJ40 SILVER Star

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    I've been following the thread since inception. My tcase only had about 30K original miles. I didn't know at the time to closely check the collar for wear. So, with only 30K, I hoped I was good to go. I also didn't know about adding more turns on the shift shaft fork screw. Mine is only enough to clear the cotter pin. I need to disassemble the interior to access the top cover. Haven't done that yet.

    It appears to me that my lever is aligned with the shaft detents - as far as I can tell. I don't really have a strong feel for it. I don't like the idea of using a bungee cord on the lever, as I feel that would pull the shift fork against the sides of the collar. I use two velcro straps that limit movement. I attach and reattach as I go. Pain in the a$$, but it's all I've got now. I'd really like to hear an honest response from AA that addresses the problem implicitly. There are too many with this problem out for this to be a coincidence.

    At GSMTR, I spoke with Marlin, who admitted that he had input into the design of the Orion. He felt that my rear driveshaft, that was quite compressed, with no splines showing (from my OME install that moved rear wheels forward a bit) was pushing against the tcase on descent. He said that he has seen that before and shortening the rear d/s resolved that problem of popping out of gear on the *descent*. I also haven't done this yet. Going up to 4" lift should resolve this particular problem for me.
     
  5. John Smith

    John Smith In the garage

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    I followed the thread very early on and was happy I opted for the Toybox even though it was a major undertaking to install. I am happy to see that Treeroot seems to have solved the Orion problems. Advance Adapters at the very least should buy him lunch and send him a t-shirt.
     
  6. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Have you contacted AA?
     
  7. Blue77FJ40

    Blue77FJ40 SILVER Star

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    Yes, all I got was that my shifter linkage most likely needed adjustment. I would be *very* suprised if that was the problem. My lever engages the detents and has movement if pushed past the detent both forward (hi range) and rearward (low range) without touching the hump opening edges. This tells me I'm not hitting the edge of the opening in the hump, such that the lever could be hitting, resulting in a pop into neutral. In fact, I didn't even need to enlarge the original hole, and wound using the original lever boot base (with the twin stick boot installed).

    I still don't know why mine pops out of high and low.
     
  8. peesalot

    peesalot

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    after many hours of research and many more removing and reinstalling the orion I am of the following opinion:

    Use new shift collar
    Set shift fork detent screw tight.( past cotter pin completely)
    Set load properly on outputshaft ( IMO this is the cause of poppong out of gear )
    Make sure you used spacer so input gear does not walk back and forth( also cause of popping out of gear IMO )
    I have done all the above and still have popping into N from 2H upon coasting decents with some speed , and once when in low range to N when running in 4th. gear and letting off to coast .


    I feel the popping out of gear is a combo of ,
    1)worn shift collar
    2)walking input gear ( effects the idler slightly which effects high gear ever so slightly but IMO is enough to kick collar out when coasting at speed)
    3) Output shaft load set wrong and allowing play between the hi - lo - nuetral dog teeth . So when decending in a coast the input thrusts back( effecting the high gear alignment , the output is thrusting forward further effecting dogteeth alignment. So if you gots play and a worn collar you got popping outa gear.

    Mine has a 3/32 play or walk on input and like 12/1000 on the output and it pops . Everything else is checked or done and is right and tight so it has gotta be these factors or , or , or just maybe Marlin's first guess was right and the gear cutter fawked up and the taper on Dogteeth is wrong ...
     
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