OPOR - GX470 Slider Install (2 Viewers)

[GonzoShinyPants]

Bump - since it appears a lot of people jumped on the MT group buy for these, including me, and this is a great post, I'm bumping it to add to it. With such a great post from @Bluetribal to start off with and a lot of other insight from posters I hope to add something, too. I'll start install in the next week or so, but the plan is to avoid the rivnuts altogether. While the challenges people have had with them are bad enough, there are some compelling reasons to skip them, one being the addition of a through bolt on the front feet rather than those attachment points on just one side of the frame, which does require drilling a hole on the inside the frame on each side. Another being the possibility I don't set one well and it ends up spinning after the bolt is in. I want to be able to remove the sliders easily if and when needed. I'll take @little_joe 's suggestion on brazing the nuts to a plate for the middle leg on the bottom of the frame.

Re the comments on welding, for me I don't want to weld the sliders on at this point. I'm just not ready to commit THAT much to that item on this truck - it's still a daily driver for my wife. So that's not an option for me at this time.

 

[James C]

I guess we’re riding the exact same train (of thought!)

Finished painting my group buy sliders on Monday and bolted them up last night. Not trying to steal your thunder, but I had the same feeling on the rivnuts so:

Through hole

• James C
• May 17, 2018

1/2” through hole and a:

Bolt

• James C
• May 17, 2018

Big ol’ 6” 7/16-14 grade 8 bolt.

The bolt is the perfect length for the frame. As a heads up, the inner wall of the frame there is THICK, and I highly recommend stepping up the bit size on your way to 1/2”.

 

[GonzoShinyPants]

Awesome man, great info! No this is not my post at all, a group effort to provide info. That is my plan, too, on the schedule for Saturday.

Backing up a bit, for my part I found the little black clips on the running boards pretty easy and didn't lose a single one - put a little piece of tape on them as you go and they won't fly off (well 1 of mine went a few feet, that's it). For removing them, insert a smaller flat head screwdriver on each side, push them in and then twist them in opposite directions and pry back. They come off pretty easy. Wear gloves in case your screwdriver slips so you don't cut your hand.

 

[Bluetribal]

I am thinking about removing my sliders this Summer to get a nice new paint job on them plus I need to fix one nutcert on the bottom of the frame. I may look into the through bolt for the front two bolts especially on the Drivers side skid that only has two legs.

 

[James C]

I still haven’t bolted the bottom of the PS middle arm, but I’m thinking that the plate with welded nuts is the way to go. Either that or a thicker plate with threaded holes. There are a few rectangular holes in the frame to drop it into

 

[DRANGED]

sub'd cuz I'm clicking buy on the 2019 metal tech group buy!!

 

[DRANGED]

white knuckle offroad's Front fitment

OPOR front

WNO rear

OPOR rear

(for reference, depending how the pix load, Yoko tires are OPOR and OP's rig, BFGs are WNO sliders)

 

[DRANGED]

I guess we’re riding the exact same train (of thought!)

Finished painting my group buy sliders on Monday and bolted them up last night. Not trying to steal your thunder, but I had the same feeling on the rivnuts so:

Through hole

• James C
• May 17, 2018

1/2” through hole and a:

Bolt

• James C
• May 17, 2018

Big ol’ 6” 7/16-14 grade 8 bolt.

The bolt is the perfect length for the frame. As a heads up, the inner wall of the frame there is THICK, and I highly recommend stepping up the bit size on your way to 1/2”.

Wtih MT's new 2019 group buy, I'll bump this great write-up again!

Good Idea on the bolt-through. i was thinking similar, or just the wired nut to thread inside and bolt vs rivnut. If I bolted all the way through though, I'd want to sleeve it to avoid crushing the box if even at all.... It might be more an academic thing, but boxes crush and it's easy to do... I may have done a little crushing when doing the front recovery points... (that's a whole other discussion though).

 

[subspd]

Subbing to this as well very interested in the through bolt methods to avoid rivnuts.

 

[GonzoShinyPants]

So I never got back with an update, but I did bypass the rivnuts altogether and it came out fine and I don't think took any longer. You do have to drill the frame 2 or 3 times which is hard work - make sure to get a quality metal drill bit before you even attempt it. But they are rock solid and the bonus is you can easily remove them in the future if needed/wanted.

 

[Refinedredneck]

Glad you guys decided to bump this thread, my sliders are scheduled to arrive on monday and I was fretting the rivnuts. I was wondering about drilling through and using some long bolts and looks like it should work in place of the dreaded rivnuts. thanks everyone!

 

[GonzoShinyPants]

Wtih MT's new 2019 group buy, I'll bump this great write-up again!

Good Idea on the bolt-through. i was thinking similar, or just the wired nut to thread inside and bolt vs rivnut. If I bolted all the way through though, I'd want to sleeve it to avoid crushing the box if even at all.... It might be more an academic thing, but boxes crush and it's easy to do... I may have done a little when doing the front recovery points... (that's a whole other discussion though).

You know just reading your post again, I will add that the bolt where you use a little metal plate (mine was square or rectangle) seemed to depress the frame just a bit when I really cranked on it...

 

[DRANGED]

You know just reading your post again, I will add that the bolt where you use a little metal plate (mine was square or rectangle) seemed to depress the frame just a bit when I really cranked on it...

Ah, yeah.
So that supports the hypotheses of sleeving inside the frame to prevent that box compression.

Thanks for sharing that experience.

Again, it might be academic and not really any concern, BUT .... A concern none the less.

 

[GonzoShinyPants]

Well I think with your frame it's something to be aware of. Also I want to add that the guy who helped me install had also put his on with a part he built, a little plate with a nut attached to it. He's on here @little_joe. But as I recall that solved one of the rivnut attachment points

 

[DRANGED]

Well I think with your frame it's something to be aware of. Also I want to add that the guy who helped me install had also put his on with a part he built, a little plate with a nut attached to it. He's on here @little_joe. But as I recall that solved one of the rivnut attachment points

Yes.
I can't remember what you'd call it. My buddy's Shrockworks sliders came with one and I think you use them for the APEX overland's recovery points install. Basically weld a flexible strap or wire to a nut so you can feed it into the frame and remotely hold it in place for the bolt.

*Edit* found this pic of concept...

 

[GonzoShinyPants]

I'll try to get some pics up - though the nut welded to a plate is inside the frame so I can't photo it while they're installed. But that is the idea. In this case there is an opening in the frame where you can put the nut/plate into the frame close to where you need it and use some kind of little poker tool or screwdriver to turn it up right and get it to catch...

 

[little_joe]

I just took a piece of scrap flat stock, drilled 2 1/2" holes, brazed nuts to that, then primered and dropped in the frame.

 

[subspd]

Yes.
I can't remember what you'd call it. My buddy's Shrockworks sliders came with one and I think you use them for the APEX overland's recovery points install. Basically weld a flexible strap or wire to a nut so you can feed it into the frame and remotely hold it in place for the bolt.

*Edit* found this pic of concept...
View attachment 1975603

Bump....
Is there a place to buy this? Don’t have a welder and would really like to do the bolt fished through the frame method.

 

[DRANGED]

Bump....
Is there a place to buy this? Don’t have a welder and would really like to do the bolt fished through the frame method.

I can't find anything commercially available through quick searches.
You could probanly fab something with perforated metal strap and epoxy though.

 

[ArBrnSnpr]

If bolting to the frame, I would recommend drilling all the way through, then sleeving the frame with a cut section of appropriate sized tube. The single wall of the frame should support hits (dropping on rocks, or worse yet getting T-boned) but both walls of the frame rail will definitely take the hit better than one.

That said, I'm not an engineer.