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BreckenridgeCruiser

I break things.
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I think I may have a head issue with my 2B engine. it has been progressively losing coolant at a faster rate (but I never let it overheat - gauge never really got to the higher mark befor the H) and I get bubbles in the overflow and now I can slightly smell diesel in the fumes that hit my hand when I release the rad cap (while cold).

It could be just a bad head gasket, or it could be a new head or even a block is in order.

Either way testing begins next weekend. So my question is:

If the head or block is bad and a new one is going to be around $2000+ to built up, should I just start looking for a donor 3B or even a 4B to put in my rig as 2Bs are getting more rare?

If I can find a good 3/4B (I have the turbo already and I like mine better than stock) with a 24V system, I would end up with a bunch of good spares (starter, alt, and anything else that comes with the new engine) to have as backups so that would be an added advantage to the swap.

So what do you think I should do?

Kraig
 
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You probably have a failing head gasket. Why don't you pull the head off to assess the situation before getting carried away with all the possibilities. Then you will have the information needed to make a good choice.
 

BreckenridgeCruiser

I break things.
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Thanks for the CL link Canuck!

I'm just getting my head around this as I am in the process of selling my other car for this rig to be a DD. Now this! I just want to minimize down time and have a decision made if I need to make one.
 

BreckenridgeCruiser

I break things.
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I'd prefer just redoing the head... Always have to be prepared though!

So do you think a 3B or even a 4b would be a good option?
 
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probelm is finding a decent 3B that doesn't already have a cracked head. of course the head might be cracked and no sign for a long time to come.
seriously, pull the head (it will be cracked), you will need head, gaskets, prechambers
so
budget for a 13BT or find a 4B, contact Dave at Japan 4X4 to see what he has sitting around. in the long run you MIGHT be happier.

me, i would stick a PZ or HZ in and call it a day.
 
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me, i would stick a PZ or HZ in and call it a day.

Would be best if you have the $$$. I think I heard that 13BTs are getting as rare as a country that has no tax.

Roodogs in Australia has new 3B heads on sale for $940 AUS. But like Crushers says, that is just the head and precup and then you have to pay for the shipping and all the other bits.
 
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I have the 3B that I pulled from mine just taking up space in my garage here in Montrose, maybe 3 hours from you. It'll need rebuilt, I'm sure, as it was getting pretty tired and using oil when I pulled her last year at 420,000 km or so...

PM me if you're interested...
 
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I'd prefer just redoing the head... Always have to be prepared though!

So do you think a 3B or even a 4b would be a good option?

The 5B will probably be as easy to source as a 4B in America. The 5B is a 4 litre and is also availble as 15B FTE
 
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Cracks in a *B head don't seem to mean a damn thing. They more or less all have cracks, the question is if they have leaks or not.

Mine is cracked, pressure tested fine. New head gasket fixed everything... had to do it twice cuz I'm a moron, cracks unchanged.
 
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Cracks in the pre cups may be common but they are replaceable and are not the same as a cracked head.... The cups were all cracked on my 3B with 300,000 miles but the head was undamaged. Specter sells complete heads as well. Less shipping cost than south of the equator.

Tony
 
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Cracks in the pre cups may be common but they are replaceable and are not the same as a cracked head.... The cups were all cracked on my 3B with 300,000 miles but the head was undamaged. Specter sells complete heads as well. Less shipping cost than south of the equator.

Tony

Precups are another thing entirely; I was referring to the head. It seems virtually everyone finds cracks between the valves in *B heads, but relatively few of them actually leak.

Cracks in the precups, while equally common, are certainly bad news and should be replaced.

I'd never reinstall a *B head with cracked precups. But if it passes a pressure test, I'd reinstall a cracked head, no prob.
 
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I had the same symptoms and it was a cracked head. got another cruiser for 800 bucks and used the head off that it had cracked pre cups and cracks between the valves but 100 000 km later under extreme boost 25psi it is still good just make sure you use a quality metal toyota head gasket not not some crappy paper one like you get from 4wheelauto.
good luck no matter what you decide to do
 
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a cracked head is a time bomb, if you are doing the change on the cheap then reuse it if it wasn't leaking but the duration of life is greatly diminished.
if you have the money then buy a new head, keep the EGTs down and chances are the next time the head is pulled it won't be cracked.

to me sticking a cracked head back on is a waste and i wouldn't do it. but ... each to their own.

i know where there is a BJ60 that seems to run well but the body is history for cheap. need an engine then stick this one in, rebuild yours as you have the budget.

as for "paper" head gaskets vrs steel, i have used both over the decades with no issues. the "paper" have steel where it is needed and it seals better than the full steel.
but both work well.
 

BreckenridgeCruiser

I break things.
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@baxter

I was looking at your 3B for sale, but I'd only need the long block as I need 24v and have two transmissions already! If you decide to break it up, let me know!

I know a guy looking for 12v starters and alts and an h41 would sell pretty easily!

K
 
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I have seen other 3Bs go for 2K as long blocks and figured a complete package with everything needed to convert to diesel this would be a great deal for someone.
Maybe i am priced to high.
If i break it up ill let you know.
Vince
 

BreckenridgeCruiser

I break things.
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Appreciate it. I'll see if I can get some people to go in on the (or a majority of) the parts so we can clean out your garage a bit. I'll let you know when I get the head off.
 

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