Opinions on oil additives to remove carbon buildup?

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Searching through the 100 tech forum didn't show much discussion on this. I'm talking about additives like ATS 505 and similar. My gut tells me its probably not needed and maybe could cause isseues? I also figure an '03 LX is old enough that it shouldn't get as much buildup as a newer car. I've changed my oil regularly but I don't know how often it was changed by the prev owner (I've only had it 15k miles). Trying to be proactive in case there's some buildup. Thoughts?
 
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I would not add anything to a 2UZ other than quality fully synthetic (non high mileage) oil in 5w30 or if in a really warm climate something with a bumped up winter weight like a 10w or 15w.

There is absolutely no need to baby a 2UZ and adding things to the crankcase is unnecessary. If you want to do something to confirm this, many of us have pulled an oil sample at a known interval (you need to know what you put in and how many miles are on it for it to be a good test) and send the sample into blackstone labs for a $25 oil analysis.

Great peace of mind and in my case has saved me money in the long run - good oil isn't cheap, especially lately. I have had multiple 2UZ's and found I was literally throwing away perfect oil by changing...
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I would not add anything to a 2UZ other than quality fully synthetic (non high mileage) oil in 5w30 or if in a really warm climate something with a bumped up winter weight like a 10w or 15w.

There is absolutely no need to baby a 2UZ and adding things to the crankcase is unnecessary. If you want to do something to confirm this, many of us have pulled an oil sample at a known interval (you need to know what you put in and how many miles are on it for it to be a good test) and send the sample into blackstone labs for a $25 oil analysis.

Great peace of mind and in my case has saved me money in the long run - good oil isn't cheap, especially lately. I have had multiple 2UZ's and found I was literally throwing away perfect oil by changing it at 3-5k and can push out at least 2x that even on the severe duty schedule with towing, offroading, idling, etc.

Look up the pictures of most folks valve cover gasket jobs and you will see just how clean the valvetrain stays on these things if you do oil services on time. Even if the PO pushed intervals too far, just stay on top of doing your intervals on time and you'll be good.

That being said, I had Jeeps in high school and it was common to just add a half a quart of ATF to the crank case to free up sticky valves, drive 50 miles or so and then drain the oil to get the junk out. But no need on these motors.
 
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I would not add anything to a 2UZ other than quality fully synthetic (non high mileage) oil in 5w30 or if in a really warm climate something with a bumped up winter weight like a 10w or 15w.
I figured as much. Thanks for a great answer. I use "bulk oil" standard 5W30 (non-synth) as recc'd by members on the board. I may do that oil test as well. Thx
 

Eyedaho

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I would not add anything to a 2UZ other than quality fully synthetic (non high mileage) oil in 5w30 or if in a really warm climate something with a bumped up winter weight like a 10w or 15w.

There is absolutely no need to baby a 2UZ and adding things to the crankcase is unnecessary. If you want to do something to confirm this, many of us have pulled an oil sample at a known interval (you need to know what you put in and how many miles are on it for it to be a good test) and send the sample into blackstone labs for a $25 oil analysis.

Great peace of mind and in my case has saved me money in the long run - good oil isn't cheap, especially lately. I have had multiple 2UZ's and found I was literally throwing away perfect oil by changing it at 3-5k and can push out at least 2x that even on the severe duty schedule with towing, offroading, idling, etc.

Look up the pictures of most folks valve cover gasket jobs and you will see just how clean the valvetrain stays on these things if you do oil services on time. Even if the PO pushed intervals too far, just stay on top of doing your intervals on time and you'll be good.

That being said, I had Jeeps in high school and it was common to just add a half a quart of ATF to the crank case to free up sticky valves, drive 50 miles or so and then drain the oil to get the junk out. But no need on these motors.
I have been going with 5k with Mobil 1 synth, but maybe I should look at stretching that out a bit.
 
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I wouldn’t stretch an oil change over 5k. For one, the blackstone lab results arent conclusive enough to justify saving a few oil changes a year. Two, even if the oil is fine the filter may not be up to snuff. Look at these high mileage 10k -15k filters that are on shelves and ask yourself if it’s just a marketing ploy.

Get a fumoto valve and a filter wrench and maybe add some marvel mystery oil every now and then. Oil is cheap in the end.
 

fjc-man

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Is anybody old enough to ( reading this thread ) remember all the problems in the 80s when gas was complete s***? Carbon buildup on the backside of the intake valves was a huge performance problem. It was like having a sponge glued on the valve. Most of the gas being injected ( through the partially clogged injectors) would be soaked up by the carbon deposits. And next up, does anyone remember walnut blasting? It was a more effective way to decarbonize valves than fuel additives and in most cases easier than removing and disassembling the cylinder head(s). I’m not making this up, google it.
 
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Is anybody old enough to ( reading this thread ) remember all the problems in the 80s when gas was complete s***? Carbon buildup on the backside of the intake valves was a huge performance problem. It was like having a sponge glued on the valve. Most of the gas being injected ( through the partially clogged injectors) would be soaked up by the carbon deposits. And next up, does anyone remember walnut blasting? It was a more effective way to decarbonize valves than fuel additives and in most cases easier than removing and disassembling the cylinder head(s). I’m not making this up, google it.

Yes but the 2uz-fe does not have these problems does it? Nothing major that I have read off from all our wonderful folks on this forum.
 
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Carbon build up is a problem for direct injection engines.

Believe ours uses standard injection above the valves. This "washes the valve tops" thus mitigating carbon build up there. manufacturers have recognized this and are migrating to an alternative injection, an attempt to prevent buildup on that valve back sides.

Search "ford carbon build up". Tons of info.
 
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Is anybody old enough to ( reading this thread ) remember all the problems in the 80s when gas was complete s***? Carbon buildup on the backside of the intake valves was a huge performance problem. It was like having a sponge glued on the valve. Most of the gas being injected ( through the partially clogged injectors) would be soaked up by the carbon deposits. And next up, does anyone remember walnut blasting? It was a more effective way to decarbonize valves than fuel additives and in most cases easier than removing and disassembling the cylinder head(s). I’m not making this up, google it.
Lol and Ford went ahead and reintroduced it for 2015 with the DI ecoboosts! Walnut blasting is back in style. But now they also port inject as well so on the new ecoboosts you get two injectors per cylinder which is going to be fun.
 
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Lol and Ford went ahead and reintroduced it for 2015 with the DI ecoboosts! Walnut blasting is back in style. But now they also port inject as well so on the new ecoboosts you get two injectors per cylinder which is going to be fun.


Yeah fun and expensive for long term maintenance...but you know by buying a Ford you didn't care about maintenance anyways :rofl:..hehe I just kid..
 

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