I've got a '94 with Slee's 6" lift kit. If you are familiar with the geometry of the front control arms and their mounts, you might be able to help me.
Slee's control arm bushing 'sleeves' are wider than the stock control arm sleeves. In my estimation, this makes it more difficult for the front axle to articulate because the control arms cannot twist in their brackets- the top and bottom of the sleeves contact the brackets on the axle and on the frame mounts. I am curious if anyone has tried grinding the sleeves where they contact the brackets, to enable the arms to twist slightly. This would be a similar solution to 'wristing' the control arm, although easier and not as drastic.
I am contemplating another mod, and this one will be even harder to explain, but hopefully I'm not the only one who sees the problem. The geometry of the front axle control arm brackets causes the control arms to exert a twisting force on the axle housing when articulating. This force would be in the axis of the axle- think of a giant attempting to 'wring out' the axle like a washcloth. I demonstrate this to people by holding my arms out in front of me simulating the control arms, placing a large book across my arms and then raising one arm. When the arms are not parallel, you can see that one corner of the book lifts off my arm. This is what happens with the four points of the axle that are held by the bushings. The mod I am contemplating is this: using one of my old control arms, cutting off the front bushing mount. This would be done to the passenger side, because I believe that it is the weaker control arm due to the path it has to take around the pumpkin. This mod would allow the axle to rotate on its axis without being twisted or 'wrung out' like a washcloth.
Obviously, the reason for the bushing mount is to keep the alignment of the caster correct. Without the front mounts, the axle housing would be free to spin on its axis. The question is, would one mount be enough? Remember, the Slee control arms are much beefier than the stock arms. I would figure that for liability reasons Christo would not endorse this mod, but I'd like to hear his opinion anyway, and if he or anyone else has attempted this.
I am aware that there are other factors limiting the articulation of the front axle. I am not trying to get more travel, I realize that at very least I would have to change the shocks to accomplish that. What I'm trying to do is relieve the stresses on the bushings, and therefore make it easy for the axle to articulate to its limits. I believe that would offer better traction and surer footing, less tipping when 'twisted up', and less chance of breaking or tweaking the control arm mounts, the bushings, or even the axle housing.
Opinions?
-Spike
DISCLAIMER: this idea is not mine, but for simplicity of explanation I have presented it as such. I don't remember exactly who it was that brought it to my attention, but thanks.
Slee's control arm bushing 'sleeves' are wider than the stock control arm sleeves. In my estimation, this makes it more difficult for the front axle to articulate because the control arms cannot twist in their brackets- the top and bottom of the sleeves contact the brackets on the axle and on the frame mounts. I am curious if anyone has tried grinding the sleeves where they contact the brackets, to enable the arms to twist slightly. This would be a similar solution to 'wristing' the control arm, although easier and not as drastic.
I am contemplating another mod, and this one will be even harder to explain, but hopefully I'm not the only one who sees the problem. The geometry of the front axle control arm brackets causes the control arms to exert a twisting force on the axle housing when articulating. This force would be in the axis of the axle- think of a giant attempting to 'wring out' the axle like a washcloth. I demonstrate this to people by holding my arms out in front of me simulating the control arms, placing a large book across my arms and then raising one arm. When the arms are not parallel, you can see that one corner of the book lifts off my arm. This is what happens with the four points of the axle that are held by the bushings. The mod I am contemplating is this: using one of my old control arms, cutting off the front bushing mount. This would be done to the passenger side, because I believe that it is the weaker control arm due to the path it has to take around the pumpkin. This mod would allow the axle to rotate on its axis without being twisted or 'wrung out' like a washcloth.
Obviously, the reason for the bushing mount is to keep the alignment of the caster correct. Without the front mounts, the axle housing would be free to spin on its axis. The question is, would one mount be enough? Remember, the Slee control arms are much beefier than the stock arms. I would figure that for liability reasons Christo would not endorse this mod, but I'd like to hear his opinion anyway, and if he or anyone else has attempted this.
I am aware that there are other factors limiting the articulation of the front axle. I am not trying to get more travel, I realize that at very least I would have to change the shocks to accomplish that. What I'm trying to do is relieve the stresses on the bushings, and therefore make it easy for the axle to articulate to its limits. I believe that would offer better traction and surer footing, less tipping when 'twisted up', and less chance of breaking or tweaking the control arm mounts, the bushings, or even the axle housing.
Opinions?
-Spike
DISCLAIMER: this idea is not mine, but for simplicity of explanation I have presented it as such. I don't remember exactly who it was that brought it to my attention, but thanks.