opinions on 2f Swap on a 73 FJ40 (2 Viewers)

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I have a 12/73 FJ40 with what I understand to be the last iteration of the F engine. A friend is v8 swapping his 1984 60 and I picked up his original 2F. Plans were to rebuild, de-smog and install into my 40. There's nothing wrong currently with the F engine, but I was under the impression that some rebuild parts were NLA.

Plans so far:

Use F intake/exhaust manifold/Carb (until Sniper EFI install)

De-smog and sell any smog components from the 2F ( I live in CA but dont need to be smog compliant. My rig never came with any of the smog equipment )

utilize 2F power steering pump for PS upgrade

Reason I bring this up is I saw a lot of threads saying dont de-smog a 2f and I want to back out now before I throw too much money at it.
 
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Thanks for the replies, looks like I'll be moving forward then.

For the folks that have done the de-smog:

I removed the air rail and the plugs that go into the head. Smog pump has been removed and egr/egr cooler has been removed. Anything else? I'm not using the 2f carb
 

1911

chupacabra
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For the folks that have done the de-smog:

I removed the air rail and the plugs that go into the head. Smog pump has been removed and egr/egr cooler has been removed. Anything else? I'm not using the 2f carb

Need to keep the PCV inlet into the intake manifold, in the same fitting as where the EGR went. So, plug the EGR intake hole but leave the fitting and the PCV intake.

Depending on your belt situation, you may have to put in an idler pulley to replace the smog pump.
 
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Not to doubt too much someone who lives there, but won't your '73 truck have to meet the emission requirements of the year of the engine (1984) swapped into it?
 
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Also to add, your 12/73 F engine was smogged, had an air pump, air injection rail, vacuum retard distributor, vacuum switching valve, and the needed fuel tank venting/charcoal canister system. Emissions computer would be under the dash near the clutch pedal. Basically all the systems you are stripping off the 2F you are working on. The later engine had a few more systems, or enhancements to the earlier systems.

Just because the truck was stripped of the equipment when you got it, does not mean you will be exempt. I'm also not from California, not sure what year of equipment you may be subject to for testing.

The FJ60 2F is a great engine though, and you can easily swap and mix engine accessories to make it look like your current 1F. It will have better power and run smoother than the 1F's. They were just tuned and balanced better than the early engines.

Keep the later clutch and use your 4 speed, will be smoother. You will have to find a late 70's FJ40 plastic fan and the matching fan shroud if you want to use the fan clutch, the FJ60 fan is a bigger diameter, or build a custom fan shroud. The 1F shroud will not work without modifications. The issue is the depth of the shroud and fan diameter.
 
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Thanks for all the replies

Smog is not required on anything 1975 and older (that's as of right now, this state is always dreaming up new emissions stuff). That year is based on the chassis date of manufacture, not the engine. I have other pre-75 cars that are all registered here and none require emissions. Rules are different if your vehicle was made in 1976 or newer, if doing a swap on those years, engine year comes into play.

I specifically keep my hobby cars pre-smog because I'm not interested in getting bent over by the state every year for smog. Swaps are possible for post 75 vehicles but the state gets involved and it's really unattractive to me.

Hats off to the guys that legitimately keep their post 75 toyotas compliant, everyone I know "Knows a guy".

I would like to keep / re-use as much f items as possible.. has anyone been able to keep their alternator on the driver's side?
 
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Jdc1

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What everyone above said. We’ve swapped a 60 2F into a ‘69 and ‘72. Both dressed with all F accessories. The FJ60 distributor is an upgrade worth keeping. Also, you can get a plastic fan from Rock Auto to match whatever year water pump you are using.

With the ‘69, we used the original 3 speed and got to compare just the engine. It is amazing how much of an upgrade the 2F is over the F.
 
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The 1F alternator bracket is bolted to the bottom of the block and slides in under the motor mount bracket. I believe the late 2F smog pump bracket mounts the same way. I don't know that they are the same mount, but I think they can be swapped out and retain the 1F alternator location. The belt pulleys on the late 2F are the same, or you can use the 1F main pulley. Your 1F probably has a wide and narrow groove. The FJ60 engine will have three wide grooves with the rearmost being a larger diameter to drive the AC pump. 1F water pump can work, but it will not have the provision for the oil/water cooler of the late 2F.

I used an FJ60 main pulley, and 2F water pump and fan clutch to add an FJ62 power steering pump to my 1F engine and I'm spinning a Sanden AC pump filled with grease for onboard air with the AC pulley. Has been working well, lots of pulley options is what I'm getting at. The FJ62 powersteering pump mounts in the old smog pump location high on the head, right side of engine. You will have the better option with the FJ60 mount location, but I don't know if the 1F aircleaner clears the pump reservoir, anyone know?

Also of note, I prefer the 2F manifolds, at least the exhaust manifold, but they have to go as a set. The 5 bolts on the 2F manifolds between the two manifolds seals better than the 3 on the 1F manifolds. Also the attachment for the exhaust pipe is better, less leak prone on the 2F. Other complications of manifold swapping is the studs on the 2F are a size larger, requires reaming out the 1F manifold ears at the head. Also a 1F intake manifold sits a tad lower and closer to the block for the carb mount when compared to the 75-80 2F, I'm not sure on the post 80 manifold. This affects the air cleaners. I used a 75-80 2F aircleaner on my 1F, with 75-80 valve cover, as that is needed to mount the 2F aircleaner and had make custom brackets to lower the filter housing and move it further outboard on the right side of the engine. The FJ60 2F aircleaner housing sits lower than the earlier models, maybe it matches the 1F manifold better, never compared all of that. The aircleaner had to be made shorter/slimmer to fit under the hood of an FJ60.

I agree with the statement above, driving my 73 FJ40 for 25 years now, I'm still amazed when I jump in my very stock and tired 84 FJ60, just how much smoother and stronger that engine is. My F is hopped up a bit, but the FJ60 just runs down the road so much better, almost still a contender with modern cars, my F gets very wheezy on the hills.
 

Jdc1

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I’m not sure when they moved the pedal bucket over but if you are going to use the 2F manifolds there isn’t a lot of room for the brake master and carb. The F intake sits closer to the engine and will allow clearance for the master/carb.
 
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I’m not sure when they moved the pedal bucket over but if you are going to use the 2F manifolds there isn’t a lot of room for the brake master and carb. The F intake sits closer to the engine and will allow clearance for the master/carb.

I've read the same and wanted to keep the F intake, exhaust, and carb to avoid any clearance issues. Plus I just had Mark's offroad rebuild the carb and I want to use it as much as possible before going Sniper

What's wrong with the F engine? Is it the original engine from new?

Right now nothing is wrong with it, the PO said it ate a ring(s) awhile back but that was caught early and repaired (supposedly). Armed with this knowledge I would just like to be prepared since F parts are NLA. This deal came up and it seemed like a good time to snag a 2F from a friend, and out of a rig that I know some of the history of.

The 1F alternator bracket is bolted to the bottom of the block and slides in under the motor mount bracket. I believe the late 2F smog pump bracket mounts the same way. I don't know that they are the same mount, but I think they can be swapped out and retain the 1F alternator location. The belt pulleys on the late 2F are the same, or you can use the 1F main pulley. Your 1F probably has a wide and narrow groove. The FJ60 engine will have three wide grooves with the rearmost being a larger diameter to drive the AC pump. 1F water pump can work, but it will not have the provision for the oil/water cooler of the late 2F.

I used an FJ60 main pulley, and 2F water pump and fan clutch to add an FJ62 power steering pump to my 1F engine and I'm spinning a Sanden AC pump filled with grease for onboard air with the AC pulley. Has been working well, lots of pulley options is what I'm getting at. The FJ62 powersteering pump mounts in the old smog pump location high on the head, right side of engine. You will have the better option with the FJ60 mount location, but I don't know if the 1F aircleaner clears the pump reservoir, anyone know?

Also of note, I prefer the 2F manifolds, at least the exhaust manifold, but they have to go as a set. The 5 bolts on the 2F manifolds between the two manifolds seals better than the 3 on the 1F manifolds. Also the attachment for the exhaust pipe is better, less leak prone on the 2F. Other complications of manifold swapping is the studs on the 2F are a size larger, requires reaming out the 1F manifold ears at the head. Also a 1F intake manifold sits a tad lower and closer to the block for the carb mount when compared to the 75-80 2F, I'm not sure on the post 80 manifold. This affects the air cleaners. I used a 75-80 2F aircleaner on my 1F, with 75-80 valve cover, as that is needed to mount the 2F aircleaner and had make custom brackets to lower the filter housing and move it further outboard on the right side of the engine. The FJ60 2F aircleaner housing sits lower than the earlier models, maybe it matches the 1F manifold better, never compared all of that. The aircleaner had to be made shorter/slimmer to fit under the hood of an FJ60.

I agree with the statement above, driving my 73 FJ40 for 25 years now, I'm still amazed when I jump in my very stock and tired 84 FJ60, just how much smoother and stronger that engine is. My F is hopped up a bit, but the FJ60 just runs down the road so much better, almost still a contender with modern cars, my F gets very wheezy on the hills.

I really appreciate you taking the time to type all that out, I will definitely have this post on hand when I get to swapping everything in. I plan on rebuilding this motor and doing a 4spd swap at the same time. Between the F and the 3spd, I am annoyed with the 3spd the most. Aside from Freeway driving and hills this F does ok around town, especially after getting the carb serviced.
 
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I swapped in an H41 4 speed a few years ago. That is the 4 speed with the lower 1st gear. I like the combo, especially out wheeling with the lesser power of the 1F, but for road driving I wish I had done the regular 4 speed (H42) that came in US cruisers. The spread between 1-3 is different with the lower 1st, and you rev out in 3rd on long highway hills, while the H42 has a tad higher 3rd and lets you more comfortably shift down and keep highway speed.

To do the swap you will need the bellhousing and tranny of course. You can adapt your transfer to the 4 speed, not too bad of a process, or just find the whole combo from another 40. The FJ60 parts will not work on a 40, the bellhousing is different, and the tranny has the shifter in the wrong place. I think the top plate can be changed over to the 40 top plate to get the shifter in the right spot, but if it is a post 84 tranny, it will have a spacer on the back to make it the same length as the 5 speed (H55), which will also not work well in an early 40.

Clutch parts, either stay with the 1F flywheel, and clutch parts, or go with the 2F flywheel and clutch parts, you can not mix any of it, but either clutch settup will work in either bellhousing if that makes sense. I kept my clutch, but honestly the 2F diaphragm clutch is smoother, and will match the balance of the later engine if you keep the stock flywheel on it.
 

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