Opinions needed: Went to change the points, found an electronic ignition unit- should I swap back out? (1 Viewer)

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MUD- still learning my way around the engine working on a new-to-me 74' FJ40 with the F.5 engine. Was replacing plugs/wires/dizzy cap and about to do the points when I saw the device below which looks like an electric ignition. Keep or replace with points?

1976205
 
If it is working well, I wouldn't revert to points. YMMV.
 
keep it

you have a vac retard dizzy .... disconnect and plug the vac and run off mechanical advance... find a vac advance dizzy

If I disconnect the vacuum tube and plug the hose should I expect to see a change in performance?
 
By the "looks" of it, it'd be worthwhile to dissemble that unit to make sure everything is moving freely.
 
If it’s a Pertonix system definitely keep it. Way better then point and condenser. You can also up the output of your coil now.
I threw my point and condenser in my glove box Incase the Pertonix would ever fail.



devo
 
devo ... what is the question referring to?

how do i know its a vac retard dizzy? how does vac advance and retard timing? or how do you disconnect it? or how does mechanical advance work? or how do you find a vac advance dizzy?
 
devo ... what is the question referring to?

how do i know its a vac retard dizzy? how does vac advance and retard timing? or how do you disconnect it? or how does mechanical advance work? or how do you find a vac advance dizzy?


the vacumn pod is pointing towards the firewall, that is a retard distributor
the vacumn pod pointing towards the radiator would be a vacumn advance

you could find a 60 series big cap distributor and side cover and coil to replace what you currently have.
 
the vacumn pod is pointing towards the firewall, that is a retard distributor
the vacumn pod pointing towards the radiator would be a vacumn advance


Dont know if that was the question devo was asking lol

***except*** for the vac advance and retard dizzy (a vac port on either side of the diaphragm) and the vac retard that faces the radiator (it has the vac port on the back side of the diaphragm as pointed out by @FJ40Jim just today (I like learning new stuff lol thanks @FJ40Jim )


The 61020 is a 1975 USA spec vac retard dissy. It is a vac advance body casting, but has a weird vac canister that pushes instead of pulling, to create the 'retard when vac is applied' effect.


BTW i am 99% that that is a pertonix conversion Mark @65swb45 would know 100%
 
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My question was not clear JohnnyC.
At the time of the post I couldn’t think through the vacuum part? Now I see that maybe you don’t need to vacuum retard?
Only advance. So let the mechanics of the dizzy do the advance and as the rpm’s decrease the spark will retard on its own?

Am I close?




devo
 
Jim I have a Chinese coil I picked up on amazon that has a knob so I can adjust the output. Can’t believe your not installing them?
Only kidding of course!

I meant purchase a coil with higher output. Isn’t that what you do if you run a Pertonix ?


Also, I shouldn’t have responded to this thread earlier today before my coffee? My mistake, sorry.





devo
 
Vacuum retard does just that: retards timing when vacuum is applied (not a useful skill on a resume.)
Vacuum advance does a useful thing: no advance at idle & startup, lots of advance under light throttle, and no advance at WOT.

The power in the ignition system is determined by the secondary resistance. The coil may be capable of providing a max of 50KV or 100KV, but if the plug gap takes 18KV to fire, then the system peaks at 18KV.
 
Thanks for that info. Jim.
So is it important to match a coil to your plugs? How many KV does it take to fire an OEM plug recommenced for a 2F engine?
Also, if you have coil that has higher KV maximum than OEM does widening the plug gap make any difference?


Thanks,




devo
 
No, it is not important to match a coil to plugs.

It is important that the coil be able to make enough KV to fire the plug, even at WOT with a rich mixture.

Widening the plug gap will increase the KV in the system, which will load every single component harder: points, wires, cap & rotor, plug electrodes. The goal is is to keep the KV as low as possible, while still running correctly.
 

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