Opinion on some fuel filtering options for 1hdt (2 Viewers)

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Jun 13, 2008
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As you can tell from my other posts on here i got some bad diesel and it messed up my truck. At first i though i got off lucky with just a fuel cut off solenoid and some frozen lines but the story goes on.

Opened up the access port under the rear seats and the contents were disgusting, water, waxy substance, weird foamy substance etc. The plunger was clearly blocked. Tank/lines were flushed and cleaned. I'll check into the biocide as mentioned by others. Replaced fuel filter, primed, got the fuel into the pump but nothing was coming out the injector side.

My pump and injectors are at the denso injection shop for estimate/overhaul, hopefully not as expensive as I think it will be but I'm not kidding myself. Also taking the opportunity to remove the ACSD at the same time.

Anyway, I've been going through all the posts regarding filters, separators, push pumps etc. and I'd like some input on what my options are to avoid this ever happening again. Since I clearly can't be sure of what im getting at the pumps even from big stations with lots of traffic, I want to take a proactive approach.

The fuel filter light on the stock filter housing is either defective or the dash light is burned (I'll check both) as it could have been a good warning sign and potentially saved me down time and probably lots of money. Also, there is apparently a fuel heater on this truck though i do not know where it is to test it so input appreciated.

Here's what I've pooled together from all the many posts I've read:

Option 1:
- keep everything as stock with rebuilt pump and injectors

Option 2:
- keep stock filter and hopefully get the light and heater working.
- add an inline secondary filter/separator (eg. cav/delphi) before or after stock filter with smaller tolerances (2-5 microns)

Option 3:
- replace stock filter body with a modern unit (eg. racor) with smaller tolerances

Option 4:
- replace entire filter assembly with a new Racor type unit with primer, separator, heater (coolant or electric), water warning sensor and smaller tolerances (2-5 microns)

Option 5:
- same as option 2 but add a walbro type helper pump if needed

Option 6:
- same as option 4 but add a walbro type helper pump if needed


I'm just looking for the most effective way to proactively reduce chances of this happening again and hopefully keep things simple for maintenance as well without breaking the bank. I'd rather spend money keeping crap out of the IP then to have to rebuild it again, i think that's a pretty realistic goal. I do understand no system can be 100% effective but clearly my current system failed me or i failed it either way it's a big expensive lesson.

Thanks guys, really appreciate all your help this last week. Hope to repay it someday.

Now it's time for many :beer: to drown my sorrows.
 
- add an inline secondary filter/separator (eg. cav/delphi) before stock filter.................................................. The 13B-T fuel system has a standard Toyota water trap/sedimenter. It stops water and other heavy crap from getting to the lift pump. If your fuel system does not have one then add it. Do a search for 'sedimenter' to find more info.
 
Thanks John,

What size (microns) would you suggest for the pre filter? Would this put a strain on the IP? Since my truck is supposed to have a fuel heater would it not be better to put the extra filter after this?
 
Another fuel filter isn't going to do anymore than the existing 10µ fuel filter. Adding a clear sedimenter bowl that you can monitor for water and crud is the important point, don't heat it. Since it will take a while to flush all the crud from the tank, you can add a simple inline filter screen ahead of the sedimenter that's easily monitored and easily accessible to clean. That's all the 'prefiltering' needed. Ask for a MBenz inline diesel fuel filter. Any fuel heating should be after the sedimenter trap. The sedimenter on the 13B-T system is located in the engine compartment between the fuel tank and the fuel feed pump section of the IP assembly. To heat the fuel, I added a heat exchanger between the fuel feed pump and the fuel filter. It's worked for years without any problems.
 
Do the racor setup. You can tie your factory water in fuel light into it as well as the heater. I did it two years ago when my factory unit started to leak and have not looked back. Way better filtering efficiency and your choice of micron ratings. Last summer i ran a 2 micron absolute and it didnt seem to mind it. I have since switched back to the 10 ( we use them at work soooo ya haha there on the shelf) and i have no qualms about running this as the crapy factory one is 30. I thought about running a pusher pump (not exhibiting any traits yet that deem it necessary) but my only problem with running them before the fuel filter is it drastically reduces the water separation abilities of the filter. That being said i would probably try installing it if need be after the filter to negate that problem. ( i know you are suppose to have them as close to the tank as possible ) An alternative to these in line electric units in a walaburo diaphragm unit i have seen bolted to the side of some of our kubota diesels. Dont know what the specs are and realize they are mechanically drivin (which i like) but it might be worth while looking into.
fuel filter.jpg
 
Also, there is apparently a fuel heater on this truck though i do not know where it is to test it so input appreciated.

The fuel heater will be on the fuel filter/primer cap. Mine doesn't have one so I can't take a photo for you.
 
On my Isuzu 4BD2 swap into my 60, I used a Racor unit in series with the stock canister filter. The Racor as the primary filter gave me good filtering, clear bowl and has a hand priming pump built in. All in all, a good unit for keeping your diesel clean and dry as possible.

Doug
LC 011.jpg
LC 010.jpg
 
. I thought about running a pusher pump (not exhibiting any traits yet that deem it necessary) but my only problem with running them before the fuel filter is it drastically reduces the water separation abilities of the filter..

wich it's the issue with the filter if you run the electric pump right before it.. ?
 
wich it's the issue with the filter if you run the electric pump right before it.. ?

No problems on mine running an electric fuel pump directly before the stock filter. Just drain it regularly (you should be anyway).
 
No problems on mine running an electric fuel pump directly before the stock filter. Just drain it regularly (you should be anyway).

I agree. Putting the pump before the filter has zero impact on water settling and filtration. You are not increasing fuel flow, you are just ensuring fuel flow and proper pressure. Water will be settled out and wicked in the paper element regardless of where you place the pump. On the other hand, the advantages of having the pump close to the tank are well documented.
 
I agree. Putting the pump before the filter has zero impact on water settling and filtration. You are not increasing fuel flow, you are just ensuring fuel flow and proper pressure. Water will be settled out and wicked in the paper element regardless of where you place the pump. On the other hand, the advantages of having the pump close to the tank are well documented.

For me, having the pump under the hood was both more convenient and easier to install. I intended to move it if I had any issues of sucking in air upstream. But it has worked well so I've left it up front. Keep in mind that I installed it in my driveway at much below freezing temperatures.
 
9180,

Was it difficult to tie into the factory filter light?
 
So I think i've narrowed it down to the racor 245r or 445r, I can't find any details on the major differences between them. Also considering the stanadyne fm10 which seems to be the same.

Any innput on the differences between the racor models? I'm planning to get the clear bowl with water sensor and heater (temperature sensing). I looked at the manual for the water sensor and it says not to connect to a non racor water detection module (which is an option for me). Not sure if it's due to accuracy readings mentioned on this forum or just a sales strategy.

My local distributor's prices aren't very competitive. Anyone know a reputable online seller who'll ship to Canada?

Thanks guys.
 
I finally picked up a stanadyne fm10 with 5 micron filter and clear bowl for the separator. The injection shop said i would have no problems either running it as a replacement for the factory unit or in addition to it as a secondary filter. Flow rate is 45gph which is good for 200hp.

What do you guys think? Will i need an extra helper pump?
 
You may find that your lift pump is a bit tired to pull fuel through 2 filters. A Walbro may be good insurance to ensure you have adequate fuel flow - especially with cold winter fuel.

Also, more fuel flow = more IP lubrication. This can only be a good thing right?
 

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