Opinion on removing the distributor?

drnls

 
Joined
Oct 7, 2004
Messages
251
Location
S. Texas
I would like everyone's opinion on removing the distributor - why you ask? It's getting to be time to change my belts. The problem is the bolt head under the alternator is rounded off. The idiot who apparently changed it before me started the rounding process. Upon trying to change my belts and finding the damaged bolt I went to Sears and purchased the set of bolt head grabbers ( fit over head and "grab" with angled "teeth") - this did not work either. I also soaked the bolt and used vise grips - not adequate room. I basically "moved" the alternator with a 2x4 and hammer then returned to correct position. Removing the distributor would allow ample room to remove the bolt. I'm just leery about what goes wrong if not installed properly. Do I mark the dist. and engine location with marker to install in exact position? Sorry for the long post, Nelson
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2003
Messages
6,048
Location
Dixie co. Florida
removing the distributor is not a big deal, follow the FSM but in short, turn the engine to the 0 mark on the crank, pull the distributor cap and the rotor should be either pointing to the #1 cylinder or 180 degrees out, if it is 180 out turn the crank one full turn and it will point to #1/

Make a line from the head to the distributor, and then a mark on the distributor indicating where the rotor is.

The marks will maintain the relationship between the distributor shaft and cam shaft, even if you completely botch the markings it is possible to get it right again just takes some thought. you will have to reset the timing afterwards , the gears can only mesh in so many places making it fairly obvious if you are off, the timing on the other hand I would not leave to marks alone
 

drnls

 
Joined
Oct 7, 2004
Messages
251
Location
S. Texas
RT - thanks for the info. Didn't think it was a big deal. When you say turn the engine on the crank, is this by hand or bumping with the key? Nelson
 

cruiserdan

SupportingVendor Emeritus
Moderator
 
 
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
23,302
Location
Land Cruiser Heritage Museum broom closet
#1 does not need to be at TDC, here is how I do it:

I scribe a line on the cylinder head along the ear of the distributor housing. I remove the cap and apply a paint mark on the rim of the housing where the rotor is pointing. When you pull the distributor out you will see the shaft rotate a bit because of the helical cut on the gear. When I reinstall it I start with the rotor off just a bit from the paint mark and I insert the distributor. The shaft will rotate a bit as it goes in.
I then line up the ear with the scribe mark. If the rotor is not on the paint mark I pull the distributor back out and move it a tooth and reinsert it. Every time I have done it this way the timing is dead-on when I check it at the end of the job.

D-


Oh,

DO NOT rotate the crank when you have the distributor out........ :doh:
 

drnls

 
Joined
Oct 7, 2004
Messages
251
Location
S. Texas
Dan - thanks for the con't info. Honestly I have never quite figured how you crank the engine with the breaker bar. Unfortunately I do not have the wealth of info to contribute as others but this site is home away from home for me. Is removing the distributor the best approach to removing the problem bolt? Nelson
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2003
Messages
6,048
Location
Dixie co. Florida
Dan is right you do not have to bring it to TDC on #1 (turn the engine) the marks will work without it. But if you run into any troubles it is helpful reference point.

If you do want to turn the engine you can put a socket on the large nut in the middle of the harmonic ballcancer and turn it with a ratchet. it is possible but difficult to hit the right spot by bumping the starter.
 
Top Bottom