Opinion on Lexus 470 (1 Viewer)

Location

United States

Looking for a family hauler....soon.

A friend has decided to sell his 98 lx470. We have known the owner of the truck for at least a dozen years as well as the previous owner. Truck has been mostly used as a commuter and no off-roading what so ever. Has 364,000km which is 226k miles. Body is straight. Has rear locker and centre diff lock. Wife really likes the truck. I know nothing about these trucks.

So we decided to crawl around the truck. See what it needs. Appears to have not been maintained that well. Typical Landcruiser. Northern BC truck

Needs are as follows:

Brakes, all four corners, pads, rotors.
Front wheel bearings are loose so likely toast
Exhaust is crap from in front of catalytic to tail pipe. No check engine light or codes.
Rear pinion weeping. Diff oil is nice and clean.
CV axle boots torn.
Lower ball joints worn.
Needs summer tires.
Suspension lifting mechanism is functional
Needs an oil change.
Timing belt, water pump etc 2k ago
Needs a good cleaning inside but everything functional
Starts and runs good, doesn’t burn oil, smell weird etc.

parts total without tires is around 2500 CAD from rock auto. I have not shopped around but I intend to. I can do most of the work myself. Lower ball joints don’t look too fun but I’ll buy extra beer and get through it. I would likely get a shop to do the exhaust.


Questions for current owners in the know. What else should I expect to have to throw at this thing if I go ahead with the purchase? Would you guys be scared to dump that much money into a truck with that many km? I understand the 2uz is super reliable just looking for advice on other major component changes and potential bills etc. Should note this is not my first Landcruiser but I usually lurk in the 40/60 diesel section because that is what we currently drive and own.

Thank for the comments.

 

[Mike NXP]

Did you mention how much you would be purchasing the rig for?

 

[bcsteel]

I did not. Around 5k

 

[Mike NXP]

I did not. Around 5k

How rusty is the rig? Although it's high mileage If the overall condition is half way decent it's not a bad idea to throw another few grand into it for maintenance and keep it alive.

Just saw it is a LX , I don't know anything about the suspension system but I know most people have these deep dark paranoia about it failing so that is a high dollar item to consider if needed to be repaired.

Why would someone do a timing belt / water pump 2k miles ago and then sell the rig? You mentioned it's a buddy of yours so I don't suspect any hidden issues.

 

[AlpineAccess]

 

[bcsteel]

He has the opportunity to move overseas and it’s something he has been working on for sometime. Life decisions...nothing really to hide just that he doesn’t maintain his vehicles very well. Which I knew

 

[bcsteel]

It’s not rusty. Well not too rusty

 

[bobNoobie]

issues I have come across during my 3 year ownership of a moderate rust BC vehicle
1. APPS , TPS, Throttle body CEL (limp mode)
2. Battery drain, I am guessing it's a relay that is making clicking noise with the key out
3. Heater T
4. Ignition key barrel rod


what year did you get btw?

 

[l3n0x]

Can we see a picture of the underside of it?

 

[bcsteel]

It’s a 98.
Weather is too poor for a under carriage shot at the moment

 

[l3n0x]

Thing is, it all comes down to rust. If it's rusty, it won't be that fun - and mine being rusty, but not super rusty, I would try and talk AWAY everyone from a rusty 100-series. It's a major PITA, and they're not worth saving/rebuilding/investing into & it will doom the relationship (why throw even 2.5k onto it if it'll quit a couple years down the road anyway). Perhaps it's good for a "one dream trip" and throw away thingy, but no long term affairs. If it's not rusty, then $5k is way too cheap for it

 

[AlpineAccess]

Lower ball joints are one of the easiest things to fix that you listed. The rack is an absolute PITA. If the starter is original, plan on that. Big PITA. Super loose bearings often mean a lot of other things are going on in there - see posts on damaged spindles.

Brake rotors are captive, must separate hub or have them turned on the vehicle. Not a big deal just you should know they aren't as simple as most Yota's.

If the list is starting at this level, I'd plan on upper ball joints, pretty much every suspension bushing, I'd assume you're replacing the CV's if the wheel bearings are that loose and there is a ton of play (the teeth will be worn down).

Based on your appraisal of your buddy's maintenance: I'd anticipate transmission fluid, brake fluid, and power steering has been neglected and needs to be done. Has he had any work done on the master cylinder? It's a big ticket item.

If radiator has a light brown tint to it, plan to replace radiator and cooling hoses. Outside of running the oil for 30k without changing it, cooling failure is what will kill a 2UZ. Plan to pull coil packs and check plugs. Plugs (especially in cool states with lots of heat cycling) have a tendency to back out and cause damage.

Check that the sun roof works. If the windshield has been replaced before, pull back the rubber seal and look for rust. Check the lower quarter panels for body rust behind the fender liners.

If it has rust, and you add all of this stuff in on it...

 

[bcsteel]

@AlpineAccess,

Thanks for the response. Was what I was hoping for. Had another good look, Heater T’s are new. Electric master cylinder accumulator mech. Cycles and works fine. Rad fluid is fine. AHC works perfect for now. Suspect everything in the front end fawked.