Operation 9.5" Land Cruiser Axle (1 Viewer)

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GRM

Finding new adventures in old jalopies.
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Last year, I got a great idea to replace the 8" e-locker rear axle in my '86 mini truck, with a 9.5" full float cruiser diff. I have already tossed one ring and pinion, plus lost a wheel spacer on the freeway, so I knew it was time to put something in the truck I trusted.

After some planning, I started collecting the following parts to build a 61" wide centered 9.5" rear diff.

  • FJ60 Rear Axle Housing
  • Ruff Stuff Full Float Spindle Ends
  • Trail Gear +5 30-Spline Front axle Shafts
  • Trail Gear 4340 Drive Flanges
  • IFS Toyota Wheel Hubs
  • FJ60 Front Brake Rotors
  • '86 Mini Truck Front Brake Calipers
  • Ruff Stuff Leaf Spring Perches
3597_10100280943598722_1086299843_n.jpg
 
Fast forward a year, and I stumbled across a full float e-locker axle at the Stockton Cruiser swap meet. Time to change plans to accommodate the selectable rear locker and the parking brake.

Also, since a good friend of mine is commandeering my old rear axle housing & shafts to center the rear axle in his FJ60, I can't wait another year to get this done.

photo-8.JPG
 
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So are you planning to center the e-locked center and re-use the spindles and brakes or just add perches and bolt it into your rig?
 
I'm planning to center the land cruiser axle, and use custom shafts
 
I am gonna enjoy this as I have often thought this would be a nice setup for a mini truck build.
 
My opinion...

There is no way I'd put that rear e-locker in MY truck. Have you seen the carnage when the axle shaft snaps? I know, your truck is a lot lighter, but still...

They are a PITA to re-gear, and they are fussy about getting to lock.

I'd stick with the 60-series diff and go ARB.
 
My opinion...

There is no way I'd put that rear e-locker in MY truck. Have you seen the carnage when the axle shaft snaps? I know, your truck is a lot lighter, but still...

They are a PITA to re-gear, and they are fussy about getting to lock.

I'd stick with the 60-series diff and go ARB.

I haven't seen one blown up (only seen the 8" elocker, and I've done a few of them). Have a link to details on why they blow up?
 
The 80 series 9.5" E-locker do tend to be a bit finicky. If they are not actuated on a regular basis they do tend to stick and there is a thread I ran across a week or so ago where a guy sold a e-locked 80, he watched the guy load it and when it was delivered the diff was pretty much toast. Apparently the transporter had fiddled with the lockers when moving the rig on the truck and by the time it got there the lockers wouldn't work and the guy is basically having to rebuild both ends.

As KLF mentioned when they break a shaft they do have a tendency to pretty much self destruct and regearing them is a PITA. I know a guy who swears by the 80. He wheels it hard and has had 6 or 7 of them over the years and steers clear of the E-lockers.

That said, having a lighter rig and using the locker regularly you will probably be fine. The 80's curb at close to 6k# and often the lockers have not been used since the trucks were sold new, so the math is pretty easy on that.

If you got a good deal then I say roll with it. Either way, I still want to see how the axle turns out. Do you have one of those big bars to keep the spindles true thru the housing?
 
I don't frequent the 80-series section, but I know there are a few older threads about people snapping the shafts, and it's awful to fix. Basically, the cog gets stuck on the remaining stub, so you can't lock the diff, and then you can't get the trashed diff out of the housing. I remember a thread where one guy had to torch a hole in the top of the housing so he could reach in and pound the cog back locked. It was ugly. Might be worth a call to Christo to get his opinion.
 
Yes, I do have a 1.25" solid bar, with pucks for a toyota axle.

But, that isn't getting used. This tread is going to get boring quick, because I dropped the 80 axle, and bent the spindle. To expedite this project, I ordered a diamond axle.

photo-10.JPG
 
Well CRAP. That just sucks.

Can't you just get another spindle?
 
By the time I buy another spindle, pay a machine shop to turn them down, and buy tube for the axle, I'm almost to paying for the diamond.

While I'd like to build it, I think that once I jumped beyond using the ruff stuff ends, it was more than I should take on.
 
Well :censor: hate to see that. Those housings are F@$king heavy.

Well at least post up your new diamond blind when it gets here.
 
80 series elocker shafts can be machined down in the middle of the diff end splines to prevent the axle from becoming lodged in the gears when they twist. same is applicable to cable locking axles...what are you gunna do with that axle housing you destroyed?(doh!)
 
what are you gunna do with that axle housing you destroyed?(doh!)

The drivers side spindle is getting sent to diamond to be used in the new axle, then the center section is being cut out, and welded to the existing axle tubes form my '86 pickup, to make a centered rear axle for my buddy's '84 FJ60.
 
good use of all parts...here's how to pre-empt the stuck shaft prollem...
image-2253742397-jpg.769671


thanks to Delancy...
 
Hi grm, interesting build. I am curious as to how you lost a wheel spacer. I am worried now because i run spacers.
 
Hi grm, interesting build. I am curious as to how you lost a wheel spacer. I am worried now because i run spacers.

I'm assuming the inner lug nuts got loose, then sheered all 6 studs off.

image.jpg


Same thing happened to the front axle on my '85 4runner, but I caught that one before the wheel fell off.
 
Did you drop that housing off of the Empire State Building! I cant believe it bent like that. Bummer!

Dyno
 
Did you drop that housing off of the Empire State Building! I cant believe it bent like that. Bummer!

Dyno

Believe it or not, the axle fell 16" off a jackstands. These spindles bend easy!
 

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