Opening drains in the rocker panel pinch welds

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Any thoughts on using this type of saw to open the drains in the rocker panel ? I’ve got a spark plug feeler gauge, and can’t get anything to slide inside the drain openings.
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I was once in this position. Didn’t want to cut anything, so just kept jabbing with a paper clip. Eventually, the Croozer Dam released a bunch of dirty water. Then I rerouted the drain hoses through the plugs in the floor..
 

MrMikeyG

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I used a varied assortment of zipties until I landed on one stiff enough to get the job done. it was 1/4" wide I think that did the job. That multi-tool/fein saw standard blade has me worried, I think that it is wider than the section of pinch weld designed to be the drain. There are "mini" blades for that thing (about 1/2" wide at cutting end).
 
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I’ve seen the threads suggesting weed eater line. But it seems nonsensical to have to repeatedly, periodically stick things in these openings to keep them draining.

I’ve tried every one of these feeler gauges that are stiff enough, and cannot get them in. Just seems to me there is little downside to splashing some primer around, and opening these slits so they drain 24/7/365, not once every few years with plastic wire.

Am I missing the big picture ?

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Although I cleared mine, I still like having the drain hoses rerouted through the floor plugs, which still fit behind the plastic footwell trim. I don’t know how well the stock plugs seal in the first place if you get into deep enough water, but if one wanted to do this, it would be easy to create a waterproof seal, as the hoses are only barely smaller than the hole.

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Don't use anything made out of metal as you could leave scratches that are prone to rust over time and you'd be in an expensive trouble. Also, by using those metal feeler gauges you are probably entering the pinch weld at an angle and you will only hit the rocker walls by doing that.

Go to a big box hardware store and get some long and thick zip ties. You'll need something flexible to go through those flat holes as shown in the pic below (the hobo gloves always rip when working on those pinch welds):

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Those pinch welds only tend to clog if you wheel the rig a lot or drive through mud/washboards or roads alike all the time. As thatcabbleguy stated above, there are also rubber plugs on each side around the rocker area underneath the truck that can be removed for drainage. Another easy way to get rid of the sloshing down there. As you probably read in this post, get ready for a nice comfy humbling shower in case water is trapped in there. We never know...:meh:
 
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I’ve seen the threads suggesting weed eater line. But it seems nonsensical to have to repeatedly, periodically stick things in these openings to keep them draining.

I’ve tried every one of these feeler gauges that are stiff enough, and cannot get them in. Just seems to me there is little downside to splashing some primer around, and opening these slits so they drain 24/7/365, not once every few years with plastic wire.

Am I missing the big picture ?


Yep. you are. Seriously, with the amount of time and money you have dropped into your rig, the amount of routine maintenance it needs every year... does the 3-5 minutes of poking a zip tie or a wire into the rocker panels once a season really add that much to the ownership costs?

Cutting away at the the bottom of the rocker panel with power tools instead is just CRAZY TALK.

FWIW, mine do drain pretty much constantly. I have only had to open these drains up under my '80s once or twice in the twenty years or so that I have been using them off road. And you know the kind of mud, silt, clay and peat my rigs see. ;)


Mark...
 
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Although I cleared mine, I still like having the drain hoses rerouted through the floor plugs, which still fit behind the plastic footwell trim. I don’t know how well the stock plugs seal in the first place if you get into deep enough water, but if one wanted to do this, it would be easy to create a waterproof seal, as the hoses are only barely smaller than the hole.

View attachment 2805913

Hey @SpenserAK, what is the hose diameter that you used for the extension?
 
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No extension on mine. Stock hoses have enough slack & come down about 1.5” through the hole, just don’t pull ‘em too hard. They seem to hold their self in place well enough, as mine haven’t moved.
 

mudgudgeon

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Punch a #2 straight blade screw driver in through the existinh pinch weld drain hole.
It'll open it up to about ¼"
If your screwdriver is tapered, it'll just wedge the hole out bigger. Unlikely to remove and Zinc on the sheet metal.
I've done this on a couple of cruisers. Once done, sills haven't retained water.

I'd prefer to have a question mark over the existence of protective metal coating in the hole from this method, than have water retained inside the sills along with dirt and dust that is gonna cause corrosion anyway.
 
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No extension on mine. Stock hoses have enough slack & come down about 1.5” through the hole, just don’t pull ‘em too hard. They seem to hold their self in place well enough, as mine haven’t moved.
Alright, thanks for the info. Will look into that.
 

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