? on flipping a elocker axle - Pass side to Driver side

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Feb 26, 2002
Thinking about this in my head, I don't think this is going to work.

I have a heep that has the bullet proof HP dana 30 in the front. :)

In my quest to run my 38" tires already mounted on toyota 6 bolt rims, I have been thinking of various axles to swap in and a toyota front axle is how I want to do it.

Of course an ELocked FJ-80 axle would be ideal and I found one for a song.

I know I can cut the outer knuckels off, and flip the housing to put the diff on the driver side. I know I can cut the cover and put it with the correct Pinion gear hump for the front.

What I don't know is how the front locker engages. Is it with a gear type thing that requires longer splines on one of the axle shafts, correct? Or are spline lengths on the front axles the same (inner side towards the diff)? Meaning I can swap long side and short side into the diff.

I already know that I can swap a dana 300 tcase in and flip the tcase, and that I can get a D44 or a Dana 60 with the correct side drop.....
Eriks diff page shows the locker setup pretty good. Anyone know about the inner spline length? same on short and long side?

Kinda fun replying to my own post....

Bellieve it or not, Through all things SEARCHING, I think I have answered my own question that the front axle inner shafts are the same from side to side and the same from nonlocked to locked diffs.

Looks like only the rear axle needs the longer splined shaft, but I am not dealing with the rear.

Anyone have any other ideas or issues I might run into? This will be going under a YJ with leafs. Looking at my 80, I can cut all the brackets and crap off and weld on some spring perches and they should clear the rear steering arm.

Any toyota arms (mini or 60) that fit the top of the 80 knuckle? (to make a hysteer type from the steering box over to the pass side (rather than having it go to the bottom steering arm)
LOL. Sorry I dont have any insight on this. but good luck :)
Thanks, I need all the luck I can get on this project. Fricken heep, I shoulda stayed with toyotas for offroaders....

In too far now to back out...

I know I can cut the outer knuckels off, and flip the housing to put the diff on the driver side. I know I can cut the cover and put it with the correct Pinion gear hump for the front.

Are you sure about this?

You can't just flip the axle over - the pinion bearing won't receive the appropriate oiling, and, most importantly, the tires will be going in reverse! You'll need to retube the housing with new tubes welded to the center section - not very easy on Toyota axles. Cheaper and easier to use a D300 or buy an Atlas..

Good luck!
I'm moving the diff from the pass side to the driver, oiling and going in reverse isn't going to be an issue since it is not changing. you are not flipping the diff, just the housings. Short side goes to the driver side and long side goes to the pass side. The diff stays the same orientation wise.

As far as the housing, you will not need to retube. Cut the knuckles at the weld, pop them off and reweld them back on. No different than a cut and turn.

Its been done in a s-10 blazer before, so its not impossible to do.

It all probably doesn't matter now since the boneyard cannot confirm if the axle is the elocked axle or not. They can't tell if there is a motor on the diff...

I might just do it with a standard mini truck axle instead with the low pinion until I can run across a HP diff.
would it not be easier to just put in another t/c in to put the output on the same side as your diff? an older dana 300 would prolly fit nice!
... the front axle inner shafts are the same from side to side and the same from nonlocked to locked diffs.

The front axle shafts are different lengths; side to side. There is a short side and there is a long side.

IMHO, you would be far, far better off getting a Dana 44 from a Rubi or something else.

the Dana 300 is passenger side drop....or, the one I have installed and the two I have on the shelf were ;)

thats what i was sayin, if he is building a jeep that has a stockish transfer case, the front diff is on driver side. changing the t-case would prolly be easier and more reliable( cheaper too ) than flipping an axle to match. there are plenty of adapters to bolt this stuff up, and leave the axle alone for the most part.
hey my 2cents wouldn't be better to mod the cruiser and use the heep axles for a trailer hey we could all use parts so be my guest just my 2 cent
aren't the inner splines diferent from the longer shaft compared to the short .. ?

I believe are the same situation at back and front .. means all Toyota factory lockers require a long spline axle to run ( splip ) ..
Another issue would be steering arms. If your application demands high-steer then there are very limited options for the 80-series axle.
Not practical.

I agree with the others who suggest a different t-case.

However, here's a thought if you are dead set on using 80-series axles. How about starting with a rear axle. Move it to the front and add steering knuckles to the ends. You won't have a high pinion diff, but you will have a 9.5" ring gear. Since he was planning to cut and turn the front knuckles anyway, this would be a much easier axle to fabricate than the original plan of modifying the front axle.

Ahh screw it, just get a different t-case...
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Lots of ideas...

Here are the main problems....

To Start with its a jeep, enough said...

I also bought the polished turd with a SYE with a tom woods rear driveshaft setup to a ford 8.8 rear end and I am running a VDO speedo with an electronic sending unit, all in the NP241 or whatever the heck case it is. Rear end of the rig is set, I doubt I will break any of the rear end components. Dana 300 gets me to the right side, but then I have to redo the rear drive shaft, mounts, exhaust ect.

Leaves me with the problem of the front axle. I know just by looking at the dana 30, it is a pile. Honestly the rest of the rig is built pretty much bullet proof, just that front axle is a turd.

Whatever axle goes in the front, I want a High Pinion, that limits me to D44, Toyota, LC 8.0 and a Ford Dana 60.

In my opinion, a D44 is turd, period. Not to get into a pissing match, but I would take a stock toyota axle and wheel it against a built D44 any day of the week. Just my opinion. I've seen way to many broken ball joints, ujoints, shafts and housings to put any faith in a D44.

Also gets into the length issue, the Ford 8.8 is 59.75 in width. Dana 44 and a 60 are going to be way to wide. Researching this cluster bomb tells me a 80 - LC front axle is 63.5 which screws me unless I run a wheel spacer on the rear. which I didn't want to do. I could go stock mini truck housing, with a 55.50 width and run wheel spacers in the front, hysteer options ect. Put in a HP 8.0 carrier ect.


I could just buy a FJ-40 and sell the heep like I should of probably done from the get go...

On a question of the splines, how do guys put the elockers in the rear or front of the mini trucks... do they have to get longer splined shafts. Most of the sites I read, don't mention anything about a longer shaft for the 8.0 diff.

On the front (or any 8") elocker the axle SPLINES are the same length as the coupler locks the side gear to the case. On the rear (9.5") the coupler rides on the axle, so it requires longer SPLINES on that side. This has nothing to do with overall length. One big question is why not just use a diff that is already on the side you need?
Cause parts are expensive, but my time is cheap....

Already have an toyota HP 8.0 axle or mini truck axle I could use. Tcase is already set up and I am trying not to piss any more money into the wind on the heep..... (tcase, clocking ring, redoing the exhaust, new drive shaft)... I know JEEP, Just Empty Every Pocket...

Thanks for the info on the splines.
Sell the E locker, buy a Detroit Locker and run with original plan using 80 series diff.
I am changing my 60s rear semi float to a full float 80 and using the old 60 rear to make a front for a friends Cherokee.
Will be the only good part on his roach.

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