On Finding Love Again (My "New" 1986 FJ60) (1 Viewer)

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Ok, currently trying to solve the great horn mystery, and here is what I have so far. I've read most of the threads on here about fixing it and it seems the .22 shell idea is going to be the fix. Here's why in my case:

The pin is worn down, but not enough that it doesn't make contact with the conductive ring. I have an aftermarket steering wheel (still not sure what brand), and I'm going to show the ring below.

File Feb 27, 13 44 40.jpeg


Initially I assumed that brown ring in the middle was some conductive material. WRONG. It looks like the ring only has copper paint/plating on it. It's not copper through and through. The mark at around 7 o'clock is where the brass pin makes contact with the ring (a little varnish for a quick test), and when my wheel is straight. The horn doesn't work there. Closer to 4 o'clock is where the horn actually works when I turn the wheel to the left. It's slight, but you can see the worn out material is more narrow starting at 4 o'clock and the pin does make contact with the outer copper material.

I'm currently waiting on my brother in law to fire off a few .22 rounds so I can snag a brass case, and I think that should be wide enough to continuously hit the outer copper ring. Good for short term. Long term I may seek out a new ring, or replace this aftermarket with a stock wheel.

Here are the pictures of my pin if it helps someone else:

File Feb 27, 13 45 02.jpeg


You can see the pin is "dirty" where I put some varnish on there to see where it was contacting the ring.
File Feb 27, 13 45 20.jpeg


I'll verify 100% if this is the fix when I find that .22 casing, but in theory I say yes!
 
Don't worry about the 22 shell, just order the pin from Onur think it is all of like $5 (mind you you will have to come up with a full $100 order from him). I did the 22 shell about a year ago and mine is already wearing down to the point where I can hear the casing scraping (meaning the thicker end of the rim has worn down to the shell itself I have a feeling).
 
I just turned a new one from some brass rod.
What are the seats out of? I really want to replace mine.
 
Wait. Software engineer and mechanical/electrial things?! I don't know...:)
I just realized your aftermarket wheel is poor quality. You can also get some copper sheet and glue/solder it on to the existing ring - That should be pretty inexpensive to acquire from somewhere like ebay.
 
I just bought a pin, the c clip and spring from my local dealership... under $15.
 
I am so used to no parts available working on my 78 Toyota Corona, it never occurred to me the dealership would still have those. Since I own a lathe, it's faster for me to fab one than drive to the dealership.;)
 
I realized I never updated on this. The pin was plenty long, the problem was with the copper ring on the steering wheel itself. I ended up just overlaying a few layers of conductive copper tape and it was back to working! Good enough for passing inspection anyways. Long term I think I'll end up getting either an original steering wheel or a better made aftermarket one.

File Apr 10, 10 46 56.jpeg
 
Hey @FJ60BigLou those lights are the Hella Rallye 1000's. Thanks! I like the way they look also! :)
 
Hey @FJ40Jim , just checking in on my carb rebuild if it's getting closer to being ready? Thanks, really appreciate your work!
 
Wow! Got my carb back from @FJ40Jim a few days ago, and today spent some time with @CaptClose and @CenTXFJ60 out at the barn taking the old carb off and putting the @FJ40Jim one on with a heat shield from @beno. Before the replacement, I could only idle around 1500 rpm with the choke out or the cruiser would die. After the replacement, I can barely hear the thing when idling, choke completely off, idling around 600 rpm. It's amazing. Thanks so much Jim for the rebuild and Ryan and Jimmy for helping me get the new carb on. What a change!
 

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