OME spring part numbers (1 Viewer)

[Mickldo]

I only got the bumper a week or two ago and have been meaning to start a thread on it. They have been available in Aust. for 100s and GU patrols for a little while and ever since I first saw them I liked the style and told myself I'd get one if they became available for the 80. In the end I got sick of waiting and ordered a Kaymar bumper. The ARB rep told me the new bumper was about to be released so I immediately put my order in. Four months later I received the bar and it was the wrong colour. I asked for black to match my black rims, flares, tint and bullbar but I received charcaol grey. The rep assumed black was the standard colour so didn't specify the colour. I didn't want to wait another four months so I put up with the colour and now it's growing on me.
I love the design and engineering of the bar and the quality is excellent. Apart from the colour issue the only drawbacks of the bar is the reduced departure angle and the weight of the thing hence the new lift kit.

 

[Mickldo]

Are those springs progressive, some coils closer together than others?

Sorry tools I missed your post there. The springs aren't progressive but they have a few more wraps than my old springs. After only a few short kilometres of testing the harshness of the ride is simillar to the old springs which were light duty King springs. I'm going wheeling tomorrow so will get a better feel for them with a couple more K's under my belt.

 

[Boston Mangler]

This next one is a good one to show the new ARB rear bar.

that thing has some serious overhang!

 

[landtank]

The idea is you pull the front control arm bolt out then turn the diff housing around till the castor is right then measure where the new hole needs to go then pull the arm out, weld the old hole up and redrill the new hole.

You might want to rethink this approach a little. I can't tell from your measurements (as we generally measure hub center to flare) but generally with J springs you'll get over 3" of lift. I doubt you'll be able to compensate caster completely by rotating the axle on the rear bolt because of the tie rod/ arm interface. Also trucks at or near this point can be real finicky about drive line vibrations as you can find yourself in between drive shaft options.

I'd sooner go with CC bushings as they provide almost enough correction and should run fine with a stock drive shaft.

 

[Mickldo]

You might want to rethink this approach a little. I can't tell from your measurements (as we generally measure hub center to flare) but generally with J springs you'll get over 3" of lift. I doubt you'll be able to compensate caster completely by rotating the axle on the rear bolt because of the tie rod/ arm interface. Also trucks at or near this point can be real finicky about drive line vibrations as you can find yourself in between drive shaft options.

I'd sooner go with CC bushings as they provide almost enough correction and should run fine with a stock drive shaft.

At the moment the castor is Ok but I'll probably change it back to OEM specs. The redrill the hole idea appealled to me as I could retain the genuine Toyota rubber bushes. I'm not a real fan of CC bushes. Don't CC plates work on the same principle as redrilling? If the tie rod to control arm clearance is a problem I'm going to be up s#%& creek as I run a 32mm OD solid chromemoly tie rod.

 

[landtank]

The caster plate from Slee work's like you think. But the new hole is half off of the bracket. So there is an additional piece welded to the plate to support the bushing from side to side.

One thing to remember is that rotating the axle like you are it is not a 1:1 ratio. In other words, if that new hole was at a 5* position from the original it would be less of an effect on caster as there is a scissor action involved. As you rotate the axle it moves up from it's original spot which means the arm is actually dropping which subtracts from the rotation effect.

 

[Mickldo]

Going to get some coil spacers this week to try and level out the stance, once they're in I'll book it in for a wheel alignment to see just how far out the castor is. Do you know if anybody makes a good quality OEM style rubber CC bush as it's the nylon type bushes I don't like and I've never had a good run out of non-genuine rubber bushes. If good quality rubber CC bushes are available I'd give them a try.