OME lift installed: Some questions (1 Viewer)

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So I got my OME 2.5" installed yesterday. First off, not to piss those of you off who've already drilled the holes above the rear shocks, but I've got to say if you invest in some PB blaster and a set of ratcheting box wrenches, it is entirely unnecessary to drill. I didn't have a cheater pipe to put on the wrench but I'm sure that would have made it even easier.

On to the questions. I indexed my new torsion bars into the same spot the factory bars were. When I started cranking down on the bolt, I turned it just a little deeper than where it was on the factory ones. I noticed my CV boots are now leaking grease. I DO have the slee diff drop installed so I'm very puzzled why they are leaking.

I talked to Christo, who advised that I should have at least 2" of droop when the wheel is lifted off the ground and if I have any less than that I need to release some tension from the t bars. I did such and now it seems like I only have about 2" of lift in the front.

1. Why is this?

2. Did the rest of you who installed the same kit measure your droop?

3. Is it more important to have equal droop on each side or equal ride height?

4. From the outer fender lip to the top of the wheel cap is 19 3/16" on the front left, and 19 3/8" on the front left. To anyone who has this lift and still has their wheel caps on; do those numbers seem about right?
 

2000UZJ

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So I got my OME 2.5" installed yesterday. First off, not to piss those of you off who've already drilled the holes above the rear shocks, but I've got to say if you invest in some PB blaster and a set of ratcheting box wrenches, it is entirely unnecessary to drill. I didn't have a cheater pipe to put on the wrench but I'm sure that would have made it even easier.

On to the questions. I indexed my new torsion bars into the same spot the factory bars were. When I started cranking down on the bolt, I turned it just a little deeper than where it was on the factory ones. I noticed my CV boots are now leaking grease. I DO have the slee diff drop installed so I'm very puzzled why they are leaking.

--- Boot condition, some leak with no lift, some do not leak with a lift. Mine do not leak with no diff drop and 40K

I talked to Christo, who advised that I should have at least 2" of droop when the wheel is lifted off the ground and if I have any less than that I need to release some tension from the t bars. I did such and now it seems like I only have about 2" of lift in the front.

1. Why is this?
---Adjust them back up and see, that's the good thing about torsion bars, you can turn a bolt and play with ride height and how you like it.

2. Did the rest of you who installed the same kit measure your droop?
---I didn't measure, I cranked until it was about equal and drove it. Made a few adjustments. If you have less than 60mm or 2" you can top the shock out on large bumps, etc

3. Is it more important to have equal droop on each side or equal ride height?

---Each wheel has the same amount of droop, that is full extension. If your passenger side is lifted to 1" and driver side to 2.75" they will "droop" down to the same length, but your driver side won't travel as much to reach full droop.

4. From the outer fender lip to the top of the wheel cap is 19 3/16" on the front left, and 19 3/8" on the front left. To anyone who has this lift and still has their wheel caps on; do those numbers seem about right?


Answers above.
 
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Seems like I should be concerned if the boots continue to leak though, right? They've got about 144k on them but they appear to be in great condition considering. Are you saying that replacing them may fix the leaking if it persists?
 
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Replacing the boot clamps could also possibly fix it without having to remove the entire axle. But at 144k i think mpst people would say it wouldnt be a bad idea
 

2000UZJ

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Seems like I should be concerned if the boots continue to leak though, right? They've got about 144k on them but they appear to be in great condition considering. Are you saying that replacing them may fix the leaking if it persists?
I'd say reclamp them. Cheaper than re-booting. If/when they tear (if they are dry or just old) then re-boot. I wouldn't start re-building CV's if they leak.


Dallascrzr- I have 144K on my driver CV and boot. No leaks and no clicking. I will be re-booting when it tears. If the CV is well maintained and greased properly I see no issue with going 250K+
 
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San Diego, CA
 
So I got my OME 2.5" installed yesterday. First off, not to piss those of you off who've already drilled the holes above the rear shocks, but I've got to say if you invest in some PB blaster and a set of ratcheting box wrenches, it is entirely unnecessary to drill. I didn't have a cheater pipe to put on the wrench but I'm sure that would have made it even easier.
?

Yeah, not sure why the rear shocks are a big deal on this forum. I just installed my lift 2 weeks ago and I didnt find anything difficult about them. I also had the spare tire out so I was able to crawl in back there which made much more accessible.
 
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Yeah, not sure why the rear shocks are a big deal on this forum. I just installed my lift 2 weeks ago and I didnt find anything difficult about them. I also had the spare tire out so I was able to crawl in back there which made much more accessible.
I didn't even take the spare off. It helped that the racheting box wrenches have hinged heads too. The most difficult part was keeping the shock in place while unscrewing the bolt. A chain linked pipe wrench also came in handy for that.
 
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I didn't even take the spare off. It helped that the racheting box wrenches have hinged heads too. The most difficult part was keeping the shock in place while unscrewing the bolt. A chain linked pipe wrench also came in handy for that.

makes me confident that I can install OMEs once my shocks are blown haha
 
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makes me confident that I can install OMEs once my shocks are blown haha

After 122K my front driver side shock was completely blown. Rest seemed to be fine. A pipe wrench helps alot to remove the shocks. A flex head gear wrench also came in handy for the top nuts.

With the spare out, I was even able to get a torque wrench in there to tighten the top nuts.
 
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I'd say reclamp them. Cheaper than re-booting. If/when they tear (if they are dry or just old) then re-boot. I wouldn't start re-building CV's if they leak.


Dallascrzr- I have 144K on my driver CV and boot. No leaks and no clicking. I will be re-booting when it tears. If the CV is well maintained and greased properly I see no issue with going 250K+
So when you say reclamp. Should I just slap some t boltclamps around where the grease is leaking from or get new oem clamps? Which would be the most efficient and cost effective? sorry for the dumb questions.
 

2000UZJ

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mechanixhorseman said:
So when you say reclamp. Should I just slap some t boltclamps around where the grease is leaking from or get new oem clamps? Which would be the most efficient and cost effective? sorry for the dumb questions.
You can certainly go with hose clamps. That is the easiest/cheapest fix known on the 100 board. They also can cut the boot if you do not put them on right, so work slowly and pay attention. I ran a hose clamp on he passenger side for 35K and still have one on the driver side. Works perfectly.

I have seen a few types of oem clamps, some (like mine) sit 100% flush and dont have a raised portion to crimp. The others (like my new CV) have a raised portion to crimp. If you have the flush type you can try to put a hose clamp over the OEM flush style clamp and see, if you have a crimp style, see if you can snug it up a bit, otherwise cut it off and hose clamp it. Just remember, to replace the OEM clamp you must remove the CV axle and take it apart to slide the OEM clamp over. I may be wrong but I could not separate my new clamps to slide over without taking it all apart. There are no dumb questions, you asking this, will help others in the future.
 
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I talked to Christo, who advised that I should have at least 2" of droop when the wheel is lifted off the ground and if I have any less than that I need to release some tension from the t bars. I did such and now it seems like I only have about 2" of lift in the front.

....From the outer fender lip to the top of the wheel cap is 19 3/16" on the front left, and 19 3/8" on the front left. To anyone who has this lift and still has their wheel caps on; do those numbers seem about right?
Measuring from the center of the dust cap, rather than the top of the cover, is more consistent with other measurements reported on the forum. These measurements may or may not help you, but here they are: My stock ride height is about 19.5" DS and 19.75" PS. IIRC, my droop was just under 4" both sides.
 
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Measuring from the center of the dust cap, rather than the top of the cover, is more consistent with other measurements reported on the forum. These measurements may or may not help you, but here they are: My stock ride height is about 19.5" DS and 19.75" PS. IIRC, my droop was just under 4" both sides.
I was just going to the top because I didn't have to guess where the center was every time. I'll measure like that and compare though.

Right now I've got about 2.5" of droop on both sides. That probably means I've got the bars cranked down quite a bit I'm assuming.
 
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2000UZJ,

A couple shots below of my CV boot clamps. I'm assuming these are the crimping type you referred to. I'm wondering if and how I can un-crimp and re-crimp this clamp with. Maybe just putting a t-bolt clamp over it would be safer and more effective.

On a side note, I had a moment of weakness today. I couldn't stand how my 265/70/16 Micheline's looked after the lift and I splurged for some 305 BFG a/t KO's. She's much sexier now. Pic also below.







 
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Nice! 305s on hundys are more common now, I remember when I was looking at getting 305 nitto TG's everyone was saying that they would rub lol I guess thats not the case anymore
 

2000UZJ

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Yes, you can use a hose clamp over those with no removal. Although you may want to strongly consider removing it since you can crimp the oem clamp and turn it into a boot cutting razor blade when it starts to bind. Mine was so loose that you could rotate the boot on the shaft, when I put the hose clamp on the oem clamp it just tightened it down and re-sealed the boot up nicely. I do not have any pictures of it at the moment but I will grab some asap tomorrow.

I believe it's a 2.5" Hose Clamp.
 

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