OME lift install question...

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Outback

Outback

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Do I need to install the Slee sway bar lowering pieces when I install my OME "heavy" lift?

I don't have my bullbar/winch or rear tire carrier on yet so I should get some good lift out of it.

What say you guys?

Jody.
 
Imagery

Imagery

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I didn't install the lowering blocks with the same setup as you are going with and I have had no problems. I think that 2.5 lift is the magig number and anything above that will bring into effect those other issues requiring attention.

Mark
 
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PHAEDRUS

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Jody.
I also did not lower the sway bar blocks yet..... no big difference in driveability but it is hard to compare. you have to think of the sway bar as a big spring. by lifting it will will effectively create more spring tension than what was previously there. ie a little less body roll in turns than with the spacers. off road I have not noticed a difference but going off the same principles flex could be compromised due to the incresed tension on the sway bar. holy rambling......
cliff notes version.
you dont have to but a lot of people do.
Dave
 
MTNRAT

MTNRAT

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Photo, how much lift did you get with just the heavys? Just wondering cuz with Js & spacers, and all the metal to squish them to about 4" lift, things were still a little squirrilly even after the swaybar brackets/blocks. Putting in adjustable panhards made a world of difference. Just a thought, and I could be wrong, but it seems to me that just changing the brackets/blocks would really only affect ride, articulation and cornering, not tracking and the ability to hold a straight line. However if you plan on adding a ton of metal that will most likely do it for you.
Cheers,
Sean
 
landtank

landtank

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Downey offers some steel plates that weld to the rear gussets to locate the arms 2" lower. between the two you should be fine. Saw the same technique on an Artic Cruiser and they set them up for 6" of lift.
 
MTNRAT

MTNRAT

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Cdan, I am going down to see Christo , Ben and Robbie for a few more mods on the 80:D. I am going to get their front control arms as well as front CV shaft. I just put in the panhards this week and there was a dramatic improvement in tracking. I can't wait to get the rest of the stuff and have it set up properly by the guys at Slee Offroad.
Thanks,
Sean.
 
Beowulf

Beowulf

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Jody,
The primary reason to lower the sway bars is to avoid interference with the driveshaft in conjuction with OME L-shocks. The longer shocks cause more axle droop, resulting in the driveshafts hitting the swaybars.

The longer shocks are the culprit, not the lift.
-B-
 
NW-sickboy

NW-sickboy

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I am the same as Beowolf, My main issue witht the sway bar is that it limits my drop with out the spacers. as it sits now at full droop my driveline is resting on my sway bar.
 
sleeoffroad

sleeoffroad

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[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=5903;start=msg47248#msg47248 date=1065213735]
Somebody recently posted (Drexx, maybe?) that disconnecting the sway bars on an 80 made little difference and it was hardly worth doing.

D-
[/quote]

Uhm, not true. On the ramp there is virtually no difference since you can still push the 80 suspension to max out. However, try removing them and then go off-road. That is where there is a real difference.
 
sleeoffroad

sleeoffroad

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[quote author=Beowulf link=board=2;threadid=5903;start=msg47463#msg47463 date=1065322555]

Jody,
The primary reason to lower the sway bars is to avoid interference with the driveshaft in conjuction with OME L-shocks. The longer shocks cause more axle droop, resulting in the driveshafts hitting the swaybars.

The longer shocks are the culprit, not the lift.
-B-

[/quote]

B wins the prize. Also it takes some stress of the mounting points, especially the axle side on the front and the frame side on the rear. On the rear, with L shocks you can actually dent the side of the shock with the swaybar when fully drooped out.
 
alia176

alia176

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Speaking of ramping...I ramped it (sorta) on a large rock near my house and couple of my LR buddies and I dropped our jaws when we saw how flexy the rear is. This is with the N73/N74e shocks, 285 MT/R tires and the rest is stock! What I did notice however, the body was also very angular. If the sway bars were disconnected, perhaps the body would've been more level?

Ali
 
Photo_Cruiser

Photo_Cruiser

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MTNRAT,
I do plann on adding a bunch of metal, right now, with the heavies, and only slee sliders, I got maybe 4" in the rear of the rig, 3 in the front. I figure with a slee bumper and gear, I'd lose an inch all around and once the springs settle...all would be good. I figured I don't need sway drops, as I'm not running J's or L's and don't see it in my future any time soon....I will think about the Panhards. The rig does seem really wander-ish...and that's with the Caster corrected...Maybe I need more weight sooner than later, as that's the goal anyhow

And Oh..."fat-ass 4x4 was a good thing, a compliment!
 

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