ome l shocks

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anybody know comp. &ext. leghnt of ome 73l &74 l shocks? just bought j springs and trying to figure if its enough lift ! i just cant see spendin 75$
a piece on shocks until i know how much lift i want, :confused:
 
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i thank you for the info, saw your cruiser,love it .im trying to figure if its j springs &spacers, or 6" slee springs .havent seen a lifted cruiser in ct. yet
 

corbs

 
 
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FWIW, I think the L shocks are too short for the 6" lift. With the 6" springs, an ARB bumper and winch they sit at about 24" which means they've only got about 2" of extension left but have nearly 9" of compression. I believe they were originally made for the J-Springs or about 3-4" of lift. I'm not sure but maybe my 3FE weighs less than an 1FZ too. . . dunno. :confused:

I'm looking to do something with the shock mounts to even out the compression and extension with these shocks or to run shocks w/generic mounts.
 

landtank

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cfblade said:
i thank you for the info, saw your cruiser,love it .im trying to figure if its j springs &spacers, or 6" slee springs .havent seen a lifted cruiser in ct. yet

I'll be driving through CT on Tuesday.
 
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go to rubicon express.com. they do jeep stuff, they have a shock kit to change post type shocks to eyelet type for 20$ a pair,or you can make um easy too,used um for my jeep invert the shocks because of clearance problems, hope its helps you out
 

sleeoffroad

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corbs said:
FWIW, I think the L shocks are too short for the 6" lift. With the 6" springs, an ARB bumper and winch they sit at about 24" which means they've only got about 2" of extension left but have nearly 9" of compression. I believe they were originally made for the J-Springs or about 3-4" of lift. I'm not sure but maybe my 3FE weighs less than an 1FZ too. . . dunno. :confused:

I'm looking to do something with the shock mounts to even out the compression and extension with these shocks or to run shocks w/generic mounts.
Corbs, I would tend to agree with you somewhat. However we have been using them sucsessfully for a couple of years now. Catch is that is the longest shock we can source that is direct bolt in. We have looked at having cusom ones made that are post/post and post/eye for the rear with the correct stem lengths and diameters and have not been able to.

We can source longer shocks with eye/eye but then you have to use adapters, and once you use that you loose length again, and you are just about in the same boat.

The L shocks are the longest extension shock that OME can make. For hardcore people that want to do their own fab stuff, we do recommend other options.
 
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sleeoffroad said:
Corbs, I would tend to agree with you somewhat. However we have been using them sucsessfully for a couple of years now. Catch is that is the longest shock we can source that is direct bolt in. We have looked at having cusom ones made that are post/post and post/eye for the rear with the correct stem lengths and diameters and have not been able to.

We can source longer shocks with eye/eye but then you have to use adapters, and once you use that you loose length again, and you are just about in the same boat.

The L shocks are the longest extension shock that OME can make. For hardcore people that want to do their own fab stuff, we do recommend other options.

I disagree.

You don't "...lose length ..." with adapters, you re-gain extension if the shocks were too short in the first place, which appears to be the problem here. It's only if the shocks were too long and lacked compression space that you lose length, and that's not the problem addressed.

The best solution, in the absence of a commercially purchaseable model, would be custom, albeit expectedly expensive. The cheapest would be adapters or extenders, whichever best suits.


Kalawang
 

corbs

 
 
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Christo, I'm definitely not saying that they don't work, I do think they work well. But I would like to get a little more extention. I was aware when I bought everything that they were the longest that OME made and were probably the longest direct bolt in shock. I asked before I bought and you told me so yourself (honestly as always).

I do however wish that I could get their full range, both up and down. I'm very torn as to what I'd like to do. I'm thinking I'll start with some sort of adapter or go Action Jackson's route and lower the upper mounting point with a plate welded in. Adapter means getting new shocks, welding the plate in means I can retain the OMEs. . . Right now it's still up in the air.

Kalawang, have you seen any good extensions on US sites? I've seen them once or twice on a couple of Japanese sites. . .
 
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corbs said:
Christo, I'm definitely not saying that they don't work, I do think they work well. But I would like to get a little more extention. I was aware when I bought everything that they were the longest that OME made and were probably the longest direct bolt in shock. I asked before I bought and you told me so yourself (honestly as always).

I do however wish that I could get their full range, both up and down. I'm very torn as to what I'd like to do. I'm thinking I'll start with some sort of adapter or go Action Jackson's route and lower the upper mounting point with a plate welded in. Adapter means getting new shocks, welding the plate in means I can retain the OMEs. . . Right now it's still up in the air.

Kalawang, have you seen any good extensions on US sites? I've seen them once or twice on a couple of Japanese sites. . .

Corbs,


I've faced that problem of shocks too short and made extenders to return the extensions to the shocks. My old shocks, ranchos, were fully extended at rest so I made a 3.5 inch rectangle out of some 2.5 inch flatbar and that restored 3.5 inches of extension travel to my old shocks. It's easy enough to make. Just make sure you use big bolts so that the extenders won't move too much at the shock mount. If you don't have a welder, or don't like to D.I.Y., just visit any nearby body shop and talk to them.

The adaptor is just an open ended rectangle. I had to make these when my ranchos died in use and I replaced them with gas Monroes the were ring/ring. These had an extension to 32 inches but were too long and reduced my compression travel to 4 inches. To get some of my compression travel back, I re-installed a 4 inch lift that I had previously removed, to my LC.

Compression travel is more important than extension in use. When you decide how long your extender/adapter should be, err in favor of compression travel.


Kalawang
 

sleeoffroad

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Kalawang said:
I disagree.

You don't "...lose length ..." with adapters, you re-gain extension if the shocks were too short in the first place, which appears to be the problem here. It's only if the shocks were too long and lacked compression space that you lose length, and that's not the problem addressed.
The only way to get more travel is to have the shock mounting points further apart and not closer. If you moved the shock mounting points closer together, and use the same spec shock you will have to limit the up travel by bumpstops to avoid overcompressing the shocks. So yes, you can add the adapters and run a longer shock to gain droop, but you are going to loose up travel.

So in a way you are right, but adapters takes away from the total range available for shock travel. My experience is that I would rather forgo the droop and not limit up travel. If the uptravel is bumpstopped a lot the truck does not wheel nice. Used to have 6" of lift with 37's and 5" of bumpstop in the rear. The truck would hit the bumpstops all the time and then transfer the weight and move the body.

With the shortbus I extended (and at the same time modified the mount to an eye) the mounting pioints 5-6" both front and rear and run 14" travel Rancho shocks. This increased the atriculation a lot. I have no bumpstops in the front and only 2" in the rear.

This is all for rock crawling applications where we cycle the suspension to the extreme all the time. If this was not the case, then your approach will work.
 
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sleeoffroad said:
The only way to get more travel is to have the shock mounting points further apart and not closer. If you moved the shock mounting points closer together, and use the same spec shock you will have to limit the up travel by bumpstops to avoid overcompressing the shocks. So yes, you can add the adapters and run a longer shock to gain droop, but you are going to loose up travel.

So in a way you are right, but adapters takes away from the total range available for shock travel. My experience is that I would rather forgo the droop and not limit up travel. If the uptravel is bumpstopped a lot the truck does not wheel nice. Used to have 6" of lift with 37's and 5" of bumpstop in the rear. The truck would hit the bumpstops all the time and then transfer the weight and move the body.

With the shortbus I extended (and at the same time modified the mount to an eye) the mounting pioints 5-6" both front and rear and run 14" travel Rancho shocks. This increased the atriculation a lot. I have no bumpstops in the front and only 2" in the rear.

This is all for rock crawling applications where we cycle the suspension to the extreme all the time. If this was not the case, then your approach will work.

We speak of the same thing with different words, definitions and perspective. Funny how even in the same language, we can come to confusion.

I have a preference for the extender/adapter in cases where the shocks are too short. It's cheap, effective and removeable. Short shocks are a more common problem in my part of the world where we often pay near twice the cost for accessories sourced from the States and other parts of the world.

Whereas I dislike cutting anything structural and original, in the cases of shocks too long, I advise a greater lift or buying shorter shocks.


Kalawang
 

corbs

 
 
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sleeoffroad said:
The only way to get more travel is to have the shock mounting points further apart and not closer. If you moved the shock mounting points closer together, and use the same spec shock you will have to limit the up travel by bumpstops to avoid overcompressing the shocks. So yes, you can add the adapters and run a longer shock to gain droop, but you are going to loose up travel.
I don't believe this is the case in my situation. I don't think I could compress anywhere enough to get to the shocks compression limit. So I think that if I could lower the upper mount I would actually keep the same compression and gain some droop. If I remember correctly the most I've seen it compressed but the shock at about 19.5 - 20". I figure if I dropped the top 3" I'd still have a little extra up and would get 3" of droop. . .
 
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It's easy enough to see where you stand with your shocks. Just measure the distance between your shock mounts with the vehicle at rest. Next, dismount the shocks and measure both at full compression and full extension. The measures will give you a basis upon which to decide how much extender to make.

I strenuously urge you to refrain from moving your shock mounts. Extenders are easy and cheap to make and do the same job with the added advantage of being removeable.


Kalawang
adapterx.jpg
 
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OME 71E,72F shocks

Will these shocks give me a better ride than standard OEM Toyota replacement shocks. Don't want to divert this thread. But it is peritant to this thread, I think.

Grouseman
 

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Grouseman said:
Will these shocks give me a better ride than standard OEM Toyota replacement shocks.
Subjective.

Most will agree that the OME ride is improved over OEM Toyota. Some do not agree.

Everyone will agree that the ride is *different* from stock so if you are looking for a difference toward the stiffer side then you might be happy.

-B-
 

corbs

 
 
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Kalawang said:
I strenuously urge you to refrain from moving your shock mounts. Extenders are easy and cheap to make and do the same job with the added advantage of being removeable.
Kalawang
Another case of saying the same thing with a little misunderstanding or something like that.

In my mind adding an extender or welding in a plate is "dropping the top/lowering the upper mount." The plate and extender are just different ways to do the same thing, and I haven't decided on a method yet.

Do you have any pictures of your extenders mounted either on the vehicle or to the shock?

:cheers:
 
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corbs said:
Another case of saying the same thing with a little misunderstanding or something like that.

In my mind adding an extender or welding in a plate is "dropping the top/lowering the upper mount." The plate and extender are just different ways to do the same thing, and I haven't decided on a method yet.

Do you have any pictures of your extenders mounted either on the vehicle or to the shock?

:cheers:

Luckily, I took some pics of the extender mounted on soft shocks that I have since changed. I found a 2.5 inch flatbar was perfect for the shock mount, and decided that 3.5 inches was my needed length. My old shocks only extended to 24 or 25 inches so I needed the extenders.

The pic titled rotorx shows my current gas monroes which needed adapters because they were ring/ring. I had to increase my lift to accomodate these shocks which extend to 32 inches. Each adapter consumed a half inch, total one inch per shock.


Kalawang
extender mountedx.jpg
rotorx.jpg
 

woody

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the bottom mount in the 2nd photo should be rotated 90 degrees so the articulation of the axle doesn't bind against the shock bushing, but rather rotates on the shock eye axis...

good thread, good tips!
 
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woody said:
the bottom mount in the 2nd photo should be rotated 90 degrees so the articulation of the axle doesn't bind against the shock bushing, but rather rotates on the shock eye axis...

good thread, good tips!

I see your point. I'll make the change as soon as I am able.

Thanks for the advice.


Kalawang
 
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