OME 2.5" and sway bar blocks/longer brackets

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I just installed 2.5" lift. Looking into ordering sway bar disconnects from LCP. Will I need sway bar spacer/longer brackets? I read through his thread and it says to cycle suspension to check clearances. Just not sure if I should order the blocks/brackets as well with just a 2.5" lift.
 
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I have his disconnects on my 97 (TJM 50 mm lift) without extension brackets and its never been a problem. Though I did somehow manage to bend the upper bracket once...maybe the spring caught it? I don't know. I find that the big problem with the disconnects is:
1. you gonna bang your knuckles, wear thin gloves.
2. you gonna get dirty, lay on your floors mats
3. the sway bar need to shift around a little laterally to line up, and that can sometimes mean the bar overlaps the control arm just enough to clang on it. If that happens just whack it with a rubber mallet to get it back in place.
 

LandCruiserPhil

Peter Pan Syndrome
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I have his disconnects on my 97 (TJM 50 mm lift) without extension brackets and its never been a problem. Though I did somehow manage to bend the upper bracket once...maybe the spring caught it? I don't know. I find that the big problem with the disconnects is:
1. you gonna bang your knuckles, wear thin gloves.
2. you gonna get dirty, lay on your floors mats
3. the sway bar need to shift around a little laterally to line up, and that can sometimes mean the bar overlaps the control arm just enough to clang on it. If that happens just whack it with a rubber mallet to get it back in place.

If you manage to bend a bracket take a close look at your front driveline you may of made contact.

Tip- Have your brackets adjusted to be spread enough to hold the swaybar in position will make pinning up a lot easier.
 

LandCruiserPhil

Peter Pan Syndrome
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I just installed 2.5" lift. Looking into ordering sway bar disconnects from LCP. Will I need sway bar spacer/longer brackets? I read through his thread and it says to cycle suspension to check clearances. Just not sure if I should order the blocks/brackets as well with just a 2.5" lift.

The quick answer is yes I would run swaybar drop blocks with any lift even if you dont use swaybar disconnect. The blocks put your swaybar geometry back where it should be.

Important Cycling guide - Front swaybar quick disconnects revisited and tested

Lifting from the center (strongly recommended) will give you the full picture on if you have the needed clearance or not. Because of different shocks, caster, and springs you need to check your set up and not go by your buddys set up. Also make sure you have no binding stretching of ABS wiring. locker wiring, and brake lines. If you vehicle is lock most will need to remove a wiring clip down where the the swaybar attaches to the axle.
 
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If you manage to bend a bracket take a close look at your front driveline you may of made contact.

Tip- Have your brackets adjusted to be spread enough to hold the swaybar in position will make pinning up a lot easier.

Yeah, I figured I hit something, but I don't know what. There is no contact match on the axle so I have no idea. I've been running without drops for a while now and there are no marks on my front driveshaft, that being said, I do plan on getting drops eventually because it should make it easier to get under there and pin. I've spread the brackets by hand to get them where its not bad, but it does take a little practice.
 

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