Old vs. new axles (1 Viewer)

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Edited for clarity in response to cahill:

I have a 97 unlocked LX w/ 140k on it, owned since almost new, gear oil in diffs changed every 30k mi w/ M1, front axle service at 90k mi, etc. I’ve recently obtained a complete set of factory locking axles off a high mileage truck (230K+ mi).

Questions:
1. As someone who knows little about how axle components wear, I’d like to know the pros and cons of swapping in the high-mileage locked axles vs. modifying my existing axles with the locker parts from the locking axles (retrofit), considering the fact I’ll be doing axle rebuilds (bearings/seals) either way. Just to clarify, I'm asking about pros/cons between these options:
a) Swapping 230k mi. factory locked axles for my factory unlocked axles​
b) Modifying my factory unlocked axles with parts from the 230k mi factory locked axles​
I am not asking about ARB air lockers or any non-factory locker options.

2. There’s a decent amount of what appears to be surface rust on the 230k mi. locked axle housings. If I’m going to swap them in, is it worth sand blasting and repainting, or just leave them as-is, if my concern is for how the rust might progress long-term?
 
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Are you talking about the axle housing or the axle shaft? If it is the housing (which is what I assume you are talking about when discussing sand blasting and paint) than surface rust that is properly addressed isn't a problem. Since they are probably off of the vehicle at the moment, I would blast and paint.

As far as whether the factory lockers vs aftermarket lockers are better, there are plenty of threads on that front and most say will say the aftermarket design is better due to the chance of getting your axle jammed/stuck with the toyota locker if the axle breaks or twists. If it were me and I was looking to install lockers and had a set of factory locked axles already in my possession, I would probably run those instead of paying for an aftermarket set.
 
cahill- thanks for the response and sorry I was not very clear in my post, but I’m asking about the pros and cons of swapping the factory locked axles vs. modifying my existing axles with the locking axle parts from the locking axles (retrofit).
 
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I don't know if the axle housing on non locked vs locked versions are different. I thought they were but it has been a while since I read anything pertaining to that. I guess what I am trying to say is that I don't know if you can take a factory locker and just plug and play it with a non-locked axle so you may have to switch everything over anyway. Hopefully someone who actually knows can chime in. I have seen photos of several factory locker actuators that look pretty rusty inside when they are being rebuilt. If you plan to use the factory locker it would probably be a good idea to rebuild it before installing. I think wits end carries a kit for rebuilding them.
 
Having run both factory and ARB lockers, I find they both have pros and cons.

I liked how fast the ARB engaged and disengaged. Was nice to have an onboard compressor as a side benefit, assuming you upgrade the compressor. The air lines on my rig never had any issues over the years, but the possibility was in the back of my mind. Good to carry extra parts in case of failure.

The factory lockers on my current rig are more finicky and can be slow to engage, though they lock right up with a little movement. The more use they get, the better they perform. I like having Toyota parts in general and they add value to the truck. The FSM has info on the factory lockers and other trucks in your wheeling group may carry parts.

Like @cahill said, if you have the high mileage locked housing are in good condition internally, paint and install them.

As for axles, I’d suggest upgrading to 30-spline axles. The stock 24-spline axles taper and can become a weak point.

To my knowledge, FJ80 axles are the same regardless of whether locked or not. For example, RCV offers only one option. They do not offer locked and non-locked front axles.
 
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Edited for clarity in response to cahill:

I have a 97 unlocked LX w/ 140k on it, owned since almost new, gear oil in diffs changed every 30k mi w/ M1, front axle service at 90k mi, etc. I’ve recently obtained a complete set of factory locking axles off a high mileage truck (230K+ mi).

Questions:
1. As someone who knows little about how axle components wear, I’d like to know the pros and cons of swapping in the high-mileage locked axles vs. modifying my existing axles with the locker parts from the locking axles (retrofit), considering the fact I’ll be doing axle rebuilds (bearings/seals) either way. Just to clarify, I'm asking about pros/cons between these options:
a) Swapping 230k mi. factory locked axles for my factory unlocked axles​
b) Modifying my factory unlocked axles with parts from the 230k mi factory locked axles​
I am not asking about ARB air lockers or any non-factory locker options.

2. There’s a decent amount of what appears to be surface rust on the 230k mi. locked axle housings. If I’m going to swap them in, is it worth sand blasting and repainting, or just leave them as-is, if my concern is for how the rust might progress long-term?

You do have to modify the front housing to take a locked diff. You need to enlarge the hole and relocate a couple of studs. I did this, and (many years and way more than normal abuse later) my housing developed a crack from the area that I had to remove material from. The factory locked housing has more material in that area than the unlocked housing has after you modify it. I added some material in the appropriate spot when I repaired it, and if I had to do it again I'd add the material right from the start. The mods add up to a significant amount of work. If I had a choice of using a locked housing in fair condition or an unlocked one in good condition, I'd opt for the locked housing and do whatever was required to bring it up to snuff.

The knuckles, spindles, steering arms, etc. are all the same so you could swap them onto the locked housing. I don't know of any wear items on the front axle that you can't swap, unless the knuckle balls or radius arm mounts are damaged somehow, but those aren't normal wear items.

I'm not sure if the rear unlocked housing needs to be modified or not to take a factory locked diff, but I don't think it does. However, the rear spindles can't be replaced, so their condition might be what makes the decision for me.

Another thing to consider is you can sell complete unlocked axles easily, but I don't know what the market looks like for bare locked axle housings. Probably could sell them, just not as big a market. Same for unlocked diffs.
 
If you want lockers on your truck, rebuild the locked axles and run them. Retrofitting them is way more work than it's worth considering unless someone jumped the higher mileage truck, the wear on the housing itself and third member will be negligible.
Swap the knuckles and spindles if need be. You'll sell your unlocked axles no problem.
If you care about how your undercarriage looks, sandblast them and paint them. I have never seen rust on an axle housing threaten the integrity. The knuckle balls being pitted from rust would be my only concern.

You didn't ask, but here's another perspective.
If you want something to wheel, buy an LC in rougher shape. Add the locked axles to that. Keep your pristine, owned and maintained since new LX un-molested.
 
Having run both factory and ARB lockers, I find they both have pros and cons.

I liked how fast the ARB engaged and disengaged. Was nice to have an onboard compressor as a side benefit, assuming you upgrade the compressor. The air lines on my rig never had any issues over the years, but the possibility was in the back of my mind. Good to carry extra parts in case of failure.

The factory lockers on my current rig are more finicky and can be slow to engage, though they lock right up with a little movement. The more use they get, the better they perform. I like having Toyota parts in general and they add value to the truck. The FSM has info on the factory lockers and other trucks in your wheeling group may carry parts.

Like @cahill said, if you have the high mileage locked housing are in good condition internally, paint and install them.

As for axles, I’d suggest upgrading to 30-spline axles. The stock 24-spline axles taper and can become a weak point.

To my knowledge, FJ80 axles are the same regardless of whether locked or not. For example, RCV offers only one option. They do not offer locked and non-locked front axles.
Locked axles are not the same the housing are different front and rear.
The axle are the same in the front except pre 93s are different.
OEM rear axles are different, all though RCV makes them one size fits all.😉

Cheers
 
Other things to consider on the rear axle housing the spindles are not replaceable and can have wear ( mine do not bad but it’s there at 280k)
In the age of the IPhone everybody wants instant. OEM lockers don’t work like that, they can if everything is aligned.
But as long as there working properly turn them on and as soon as there tire slippage
They well lock !!!
The nice thing about the OEM lockers is
That if there’s a issues you can pull the actuator in about 10 minutes and lock or unlock the locker with a big screwdriver or small prybar.
Try that with a ARB and I have seen plenty of issues with the ARBs on the trail !!
 
Other things to consider on the rear axle housing the spindles are not replaceable and can have wear ( mine do not bad but it’s there at 280k)
In the age of the IPhone everybody wants instant. OEM lockers don’t work like that, they can if everything is aligned.
But as long as there working properly turn them on and as soon as there tire slippage
They well lock !!!
The nice thing about the OEM lockers is
That if there’s a issues you can pull the actuator in about 10 minutes and lock or unlock the locker with a big screwdriver or small prybar.
Try that with a ARB and I have seen plenty of issues with the ARBs on the trail !!
So the spindles cannot be swapped from my unlocked rear axle to the locked axle?
 
So the spindles cannot be swapped from my unlocked rear axle to the locked axle?

They are welded to the housing on all housings.

I took it that Broski is suggesting the spindles in the older housing may have wear that is detrimental to your swap idea.

To retro fit lockers to a non locked housing takes some modification for both front and rear housings.

I like the OEM lockers, and never had any issues with mine. If I had a complete set of locked axles, I'd clean, rebuild, and swap the complete units.

I have a set of locked thirds from a previous rig that will find their way into non locked housings at some point. I've done it before. The work required is not horrible, but needs some care to get it right
 
+1 OEM lockers. Pros and cons of course, but that's the side I'm on.
Have you confirmed the factory wiring is in place to operate the factory lockers were you to go with bolting in the locked axles?
There were model years that had the wiring in place regardless. But not all years as I understand.
On the locked set, pop out the shafts and pull the third members. If the ring and pinion gears aren't chipped or damaged, dial in the backlash, slap 'em back together and roll.
Then behold the magnificence. lol
 

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