Old school wheels discussion

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Ramble Tamble
Staff member
May 17, 2007
Okay guys, I love the old school factory FJ40 look with grey colored rims and factory chrome caps. I have two such rims in my posession. These are the welded disc-style units. I got them for $5 each, but they are rusty and ugly (see pic). I can get 3 or 4 more for $15 each that are in better shape. Then, blasting and powder-coating is $55 per wheel. Thus, total outlay for a set of 5 like this will be about $325 or so. That's like $65 each.

Should I do it? Or can I get nice, new-looking OEM steelies any cheaper?

(I already have the caps; got in on the deal from Ralph Hayes Toyota. :D)
Friday 001.JPG
I don't think you can get new OEM wheels for $65@. Plus, I don't think they have the clips for the hubbers. I had mine blasted then painted them myself. I prefer paint over PC for things that are likely to get scratched, but that's just me:meh:


New are in the neighborhood of $70 each and are black, not gray...they do come with hubcap clips.

Take the used ones and get them blasted and refinished (paint or PC). They will look like new and you will regard the $300+ as the best money ever spent on your Cruiser.
Hmmm. I may be forced to rattle can 'em. I majorly blew the budget on my disc brake project. I'm trying to sell off my parts collection and cut my expenses. :doh:
paint or PC

If you like the original then just wire wheel them down and paint them if that's all your budget allows---At least you will have the right wheels on your rig!;)
you are better off having put the money into discs than PC wheels right?

You know back in the seventies we couldnt wait to rip the stock wheels off a car and replace then---funny how that has changed now

Aftermarket wheels are okay if you still wear bell bottom jeans and platforms and then it is all in context:lol:
i jacked up the rear ...

and mounted the wheel with no tire, and then started the engine, 1st gear-idle, and then a short try with the sand blaster while it was going round and round, but that didn't work well, and ended up with the air tool wire brushing the inside, used a spray galvenize product to hold further rust, and synthetic enamal paint and dry. the guy who bought my fj40-72 was very happy with the results. i made a wood stand-off to reverse the wheel and do the vehicle side of the wheel.

one other note. the spare was kept layign flat, and it collected dirt and water in the bead seal area, it rusted after about five years around the bead seal. it leaked again there. so my paint was not bullet proof.

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