Old problem -- trying a new idea... what do you think? Need some help! (1 Viewer)

[FJ60BigLou]

This is an old problem and I've read about every thread on MUD. CRANK NUT

Here is the info..
-I have two 10/1985 FJ60 bodies and frame (one broken).
-One has a good 2f and complete drive train. This one is a rust bucket with busted frame.
-The other body and frame are rust free.
-I have moved most of the 2f and drive train from the rust bucket to the clean truck.
-I want to finish putting on the front end: radiator, fenders, front valence, etc.
-Before putting it completely back together I want to replace a leaky front seal. I have been trying to do this and put about 36+ hours into getting the crank nut off. Hasn't budged.

Problem
The engine turns with the breaker bar and can't get any leverage to turn the nut.
Can't do the bump method (start bump) cause the ignition is not in place yet and that move scares the crap out of me.


Here is what I have done:
-PBed the hell out of this thing. But with threads toward the back not getting much help.
-Heat the nut up with MAP gas for about 20 minutes (probably destroyed existing seal). I think a lot of the heat is dispersed -- never reached glow.
-light tap to moderate tap of the nut several times.
-Put a 1/2 inch electric impact wrench on it (worried now I may round the nut)
-I've tried sticking a large screwdriver into the flywheel teeth but I'm worried I'm going to break one off.
-Put it in gear and chauked the tires. Wants to roll over chaucks.
-Saw a video where a fella used rope and the frame to hold the pulleys. Rope stretches to the point of breaking. Now trying poly rope (the yellow stuff that floats -- read it stretches little)
-used a five foot breaker bar
-the truck keeps rolling and not getting any leverage on the bolt.
-if I could get leverage and apply enough torque I am hopeful it will go -- so far everything I have done has lead to turning the engine.

Here is what I am thinking
-Put a long heavy duty screwdriver in the front u bolt that will also run to the ground and prevent the drive train from turning -- question: do you think I would mess up the ujoint by doing this?
I have a one inch 46mm socket and thinking of renting a one inch impact wrench. What do you think.

Sure could use your help!

 

[Godwin]

Bump start usually works well. Install the starter. Rig up the socket with a fixed bar, not a ratchet, and using a jack hold the end of the bar against the underside of the passenger side frame rail. If you do it correctly the socket will be firmly on the crank nut. Hook up a battery to the starter, + to the starter post, - to the frame. You may need a wire with a small spade connector for this or just the bare end of a wire, push this wire into the rectangular plastic housed electrical connection. Touch other end of this wire to + on battery and THUNK the nut will come free.

 

[micruz60]

The screwdriver thru the front u-joint on the rear driveshaft? I would not.

Have you put the truck in 4-hi, fourth gear, wheels chocked? - what JimC mentioned in another thread.
A five foot breaker bar should be enough...

 

[Output Shaft]

This Method worked for me.

Even if you don't have the ignition hooked up, you can still jog the starter if its installed.

A slow heavy pull isn't going to break the nut free. It needs to be impacted free.

The only other option is 3/4"-1" pneumatic impact wrench. Penetrating oil doesn't do much. It can't penetrate direct steel on steel friction. The problem isn't rust.

 

[roma042987]

3/4'' inch air gun or larger of course

 

[60 toy ota]

All good advice, may also try combining assume of your ideas. curious, do your breaks not work or is there another reason you're chalking the wheels?

 

[Spike Strip]

Air Gun, cranked up, Six-point socket of the correct size. I only have a 1/2" IR gun that works every time, but I do have to put the PSI up to 140 or so... High flow connectors are a plus, but not necessary. Renting a 1" gun should be no-brainer. Someone may have used red loctite on the nut and in those situations an impact is your quickest way out of the tunnel.

Good luck.

 

[FJ60BigLou]

All good advice, may also try combining assume of your ideas. curious, do your breaks not work or is there another reason you're chalking the wheels?

Good question. Brake system set up. No fluid yet. Parking brake may need star adjuster tightened as they are not holding up to torque.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I have slow cranked the nut free...

you need a 1/4"+ x 2" flat bar bolted to the transfer flange, long enough lever to reach the bottom of the frame, or to the ground if stuff is in the way- but be sure to give it a shallow angle to reduce the tendency to lift the tcase...

you need alot of swing in front because there will be alot of flex of the tools and some rotation of the crank as the drivetrain takes up its slop. it takes a 3/4" drive t-bar and a piece of 1" schedule 40 steel pipe about 4' long and a stout socket- impact socket would be best. if you try to use a 1/2" socket and reducer, you will be buying a new reducer and taping some rather sore and possibly bloody knuckles.

I weigh a buck 30 soaking wet, but I can grunt and snort like a 300 pound pig, so, you'll get it with some smarts and some gumption...(I usually possess only the latter; come here to get the former...)

Now, I had to do this cause the thing was sitting on the ground- I didn't have frame rails to help...

do the starter trick; it's not rocket science; tie the handle off to the frame, do as suggested and put a jack below it as well if it makes you feel better, rig a battery on the ground and wire in a starter switch to bump it from 5 feet away, and you'll wonder why you were so apprehensive...I get it tho; it's got potential to go south; if you don't hedge your bet(tie strap/jack).