Builds OL'BETSY ZX: 1991 HZJ77 (2 Viewers)

[JDM Journeys]

Well, the long drive to work today up and down hills, back roads, highways, and gravel roads all pointed to success! On hills where before I had to downshift to 4th to make it up the other side without drama can now be done in 5th. Way less smoke, evident only when I really get into the throttle. I can now drive this rig around without feeling like I'm holding up traffic, or being a hindrance on steep hills.

This still isn't a rocket ship of course, but way more driveable as a naturally aspirated diesel than it was before. Lower EGT's by about 200 degrees when under load, and a significant reduction in smoke. I haven't even touched the fuel screw yet. I'm going to give it some more time before I even go near it. I suspect this altitude might still make it a tiny bit rich, but I want to watch the temps a bit more first. It'll also be interesting to see what the fuel economy does.

My exhaust is quite loud and will be needing replacement, so I'm thinking maybe 2 1/2" to uncork it just a little... and some sensible tires would give me a little more power too. But the injectors were pricey so I'll be sticking with cheap and cheerful mods for the time being.

 

[JDM Journeys]

This is not an update as such, but my wife finally drove the 77. We went for a little ice cream run last night and switched out on the outskirts so she could drive it home. She's driven all my rigs over the years, and had some cool ones of her own. Once she got used to the idea that 1st gear was merely a suggestion, and began starting off in 2nd, she thought it was a hoot. Not a replacement for her UZJ100, but she loved it! I'm still very happy with the performance now that I have new injectors. It is a wholly different drive.

 

[JDM Journeys]

So I took a little camping trip last weekend, and several times the truck went quiet when I turned the key to "start". I've been suspecting the ignition switch, since it generally only misbehaved when it was warm. And it was very warm last weekend. We actually hit 37* C at one point, which for Alberta is usually unheard of. In any event, when I got home I figured it was time to do some digging.

I started by taking off the column lower shroud, and then popped the lock tumbler out (a little scary how easy that was, but at least I'll know what to do if I ever lose my key?) Then I managed to unhook and fish the ignition switch and harness out of its cosy home. It really didn't wanna come out...

Using the FSM, I tested continuity between all the terminals, based on key position. Everything checked out.

I could've applied heat via my heat gun to see what would happen, but instead I carefully popped the cap off the switch. Lots of evidence of buildup on the contacts...

240k kms will do that! I guess it could be cleaned up, re-lubed, etc. But a brand new one was only 60 plus shipping, and it's kind of an important piece - this thing is known for reliability, so my thought was a brand new part for a known failure point is money well spent... hopefully it will be here by Monday.

 

[Blomdala]

Well, the long drive to work today up and down hills, back roads, highways, and gravel roads all pointed to success! On hills where before I had to downshift to 4th to make it up the other side without drama can now be done in 5th. Way less smoke, evident only when I really get into the throttle. I can now drive this rig around without feeling like I'm holding up traffic, or being a hindrance on steep hills.

This still isn't a rocket ship of course, but way more driveable as a naturally aspirated diesel than it was before. Lower EGT's by about 200 degrees when under load, and a significant reduction in smoke. I haven't even touched the fuel screw yet. I'm going to give it some more time before I even go near it. I suspect this altitude might still make it a tiny bit rich, but I want to watch the temps a bit more first. It'll also be interesting to see what the fuel economy does.

My exhaust is quite loud and will be needing replacement, so I'm thinking maybe 2 1/2" to uncork it just a little... and some sensible tires would give me a little more power too. But the injectors were pricey so I'll be sticking with cheap and cheerful mods for the time being.

Between you and me, if you're going to do the work for 2.5" I would for sure do the full 3 in. Its a squeeze, but get your max benefit.

 

[JDM Journeys]

Been dithering on paint for a while. Don't want to spend the money any time soon, and it's not *that* bad. But the flares were all badly shedding clear coat, and the resulting dilapidation brought the whole truck down. So... Today I finally decided on a stop gap measure until "someday." I scuffed up the body colored flares, masked the rest, and hit them with a satin low texture truck bed liner spray. Wasn't sure if it would be better or worse but now that I've done it, I think better?

Because there is black cladding on the rockers, and the flares run into the black molded mudflaps, and the black rear bumper caps, the black flares seem to fit in just fine. Better than peeling and faded clear coat, in my estimation.

 

[Gun Runner 5]

Been dithering on paint for a while. Don't want to spend the money any time soon, and it's not *that* bad. But the flares were all badly shedding clear coat, and the resulting dilapidation brought the whole truck down. So... Today I finally decided on a stop gap measure until "someday." I scuffed up the body colored flares, masked the rest, and hit them with a satin low texture truck bed liner spray. Wasn't sure if it would be better or worse but now that I've done it, I think better?
View attachment 2727425
Because there is black cladding on the rockers, and the flares run into the black molded mudflaps, and the black rear bumper caps, the black flares seem to fit in just fine. Better than peeling and faded clear coat, in my estimation.

Blends in perfectly in my opinion.

 

[JDM Journeys]

Knocked down the peeling/cracked clear on the hood and dusted it with my remaining color matched rattle can. It's still "patina-ed", but without looking quite so neglected.

Between this and the flares, I can now look at it without cringing. Someday a full spray will be likely raining down, but these stopgaps are acceptable for now.

Anyways, then took it out on another weekend of camping. Rear table is great. 12v battery, even though it's not being charged yet, easily runs the fridge for a few days.

 

[Rigster]

Phil,

LOL, I just realized you have been working on this 77 for a while now, and have already put in quite a bit of work on it!! IMHO, you are doing a fantastic job, and it is looking great. Your ARB is making me jealous! Now the nice thing about the stock front winch bumper on these units is they make great front seats while you stop and talk about the great 4x4 trip you just had, or to use as a table, workbench, or what have you....

I second what blomdala is suggesting with the exhaust... if you are going to spend the money, go 3". I have a motto, if you can't do it right the first time, wait. When you can afford to do it right, then go to town. You will save yourself some grief, and money in the long run.

Now as far as Turboing the 1HZ's.... I know there is varying views out there, but primarily the success and failures revolves around the right foot and its behavioral issues when it comes to fuel pedals. The arguments around increased EGT's you have already abolished with your own research with your naturally aspirated 1HZ getting to 1200F on a hill. If you are still thinking TURBO, hold off on the exhaust and get them at the same time. Go 3" exhaust at that time. You already have an EGT guage. Then when you are pulling the trailer, or working the machine through the mountains (or both) be sure to send your right foot to counseling for its behavioral issues and keep the EGT's below 1100F and you will be fine.

 

[JDM Journeys]

Thank you sir! Its been fun so far. The bodywork was daunting, but rewarding once I got a handle on it.

The front porch is definitely a conversation piece. Like, literally, yourself and a dozen of your closest friends can sit on it and have a conversation. I wonder if my PTO version is even longer than the electric winch version? Either way, ARB was part of my original vision, and I won't be going back.

I'm not in any hurry to do the exhaust, but when I do I'm going to see if I can find a shop that will (mandrel) bend over backwards for me.

The right foot has been getting educmacated since 2006 when I was towing (without egt awareness) up that hill outside Golden, and my (new at the time) little Mitsu diesel kept on pulling till the temps started to rise. I got lucky on that one, and have been learning ever since. So much easier to control temps with a manual trans. And a naturally aspirated diesel seems way quicker to purge the heat. But I'd imagine an inch more exhaust diameter would be the way to go...

Turbo is still something I picture, down the road, but the new injectors have made a big enough difference for now that I'm happy to drive it au natural...

 

[JDM Journeys]

If frugality is something you are striving for, you may get a little frustrated with the 77. Just due to the weight of these machines, and being mechanical indirect injection they tend to burn a little more fuel. I managed to make mine a little more economic after turboing the motor, and of course it is nice not having to downshift if you even glance sideways at a hill. What are you getting per tank of fuel? I tend to only get around 500km for around 75 litres of mixed driving. I could probably get a little more if it was all highway.

(from my prado 90 thread, elsewhere)

I've been pleasantly surprised with the fuel economy. My latest tank spent 3/4 of the fuel pulling my military trailer with RTT on top, mountain bike on back, and water on board. I got 12.8L/100 in mixed driving. I thought that was really good, esp at 1000 plus meters of elevation? This is of course since the new injectors. Before the switch, my consumption could probably be measured by PPM at the tailpipe. This is on (much too fat) 33x1250s too, so some proper tires will likely improve my numbers.

 

[janyyc]

(from my prado 90 thread, elsewhere)

I've been pleasantly surprised with the fuel economy. My latest tank spent 3/4 of the fuel pulling my military trailer with RTT on top, mountain bike on back, and water on board. I got 12.8L/100 in mixed driving. I thought that was really good, esp at 1000 plus meters of elevation? This is of course since the new injectors. Before the switch, my consumption could probably be measured by PPM at the tailpipe. This is on (much too fat) 33x1250s too, so some proper tires will likely improve my numbers.

Hmmm I think that's excellent mileage. On a 551km trip to Waterton, 13.43L/100km. On a 630km trip to Icefields Pkwy, 12.4L/100km. We've noted the fuel economy has gotten markedly worse with the roof rack. :-(

 

[Gun Runner 5]

@JDM Journeys …. “I got 12.8L/100 in mixed driving”
————————————————————————————-

To us Americans you might as well be speaking Klingon.

 

[Rigster]

LOL, well good thing for you guys most Canadians speak fluent Klingon as well.

12.8/100 - approx 22 mpg

That is very reasonable!! I affectionately call the 70 series cruisers "the flying BRICKS'

I will keep my numbers in Klingonian so I don't cause a brain aneurism in our southern brothers...

Prior to turbo, I think I was seeing numbers as low as 15-16 mpg, after turbo I am struggling to reach 19 mpg... then again, I cannot go ANYWHERE where I live and not be driving on HILLS. In my build post I just noted that I ordered new OEM injectors, so I suspect those should help a fair bit in this department. Time will tell. I would like to get the BRICK into the 20+ mpg range at the very least...

Thanks for sharing the numbers guys, I appreciate it!

 

[FJBen]

LOL, well good thing for you guys most Canadians speak fluent Klingon as well.

12.8/100 - approx 22 mpg

That is very reasonable!! I affectionately call the 70 series cruisers "the flying BRICKS'

I will keep my numbers in Klingonian so I don't cause a brain aneurism in our southern brothers...

Prior to turbo, I think I was seeing numbers as low as 15-16 mpg, after turbo I am struggling to reach 19 mpg... then again, I cannot go ANYWHERE where I live and not be driving on HILLS. In my build post I just noted that I ordered new OEM injectors, so I suspect those should help a fair bit in this department. Time will tell. I would like to get the BRICK into the 20+ mpg range at the very least...

Thanks for sharing the numbers guys, I appreciate it!

Isn't that 18mpg US? Or are we mixing imperial/US mpg? canuckistanian confuses me.

 

[Rigster]

Isn't that 18mpg US? Or are we mixing imperial/US mpg? canuckistanian confuses me.

Haha, remember I was translating for you southern bothers and sisters so to relieve any problematic pains? My conversions were in US mpg!

 

[JDM Journeys]

Actually, @FJBen is right. 12.8 l/100 is about 18.4 USMPG or 22 imperial MPGs.

And @Gun Runner 5 wonders why I post metric?

So, back to the build...

I've noticed, even unladen, that I have a slightly lower back end. Measuring confirms that the front is higher than the back by around 3/4 of an inch (yes, I'm using inches again. LOL!) This measurement is wheel hub center to edge of flare. 20" out back, 20 3/4 in front. I also noticed my rear springs have six leaves, fronts have seven. Supposedly this is an OME 2" lift kit (shocks and stabilizer are for sure, but leaves are unknown).

I'm wondering if I could just get a slightly longer shackled to make up the difference. Ride is okay, I guess (better with weight in the back, or trailer on the tongue). I don't load mine down much in the meantime, so rear ride height changes very little...

Anyone have experience with longer shackles? My existing ones have 3 1/2" between the bolt holes, and about 5 1/2" total length. Nothing fancy about mine - I'd call them dog-bone shaped, rather than those blingy yellowish triangular pieces, like I've seen in pics...

 

[Rigster]

Actually, @FJBen is right. 12.8 l/100 is about 18.4 USMPG or 22 imperial MPGs.

And @Gun Runner 5 wonders why I post metric?

So, back to the build...

I've noticed, even unladen, that I have a slightly lower back end. Measuring confirms that the front is higher than the back by around 3/4 of an inch (yes, I'm using inches again. LOL!) This measurement is wheel hub center to edge of flare. 20" out back, 20 3/4 in front. I also noticed my rear springs have six leaves, fronts have seven. Supposedly this is an OME 2" lift kit (shocks and stabilizer are for sure, but leaves are unknown).

I'm wondering if I could just get a slightly longer shackled to make up the difference. Ride is okay, I guess (better with weight in the back, or trailer on the tongue). I don't load mine down much in the meantime, so rear ride height changes very little...

Anyone have experience with longer shackles? My existing ones have 3 1/2" between the bolt holes, and about 5 1/2" total length. Nothing fancy about mine - I'd call them dog-bone shaped, rather than those blingy yellowish triangular pieces, like I've seen in pics...

Doh! My bad, I had my conversions backwards! Now I am going to be the one displaying symptoms of mental breakdown, lol Thanks for catching that! I would expect no less from a teacher! Please don't tell me my current grades...

Now, back to the build... I hate to use generalities, because each machine will be slightly different, and have its own characteristics. Here is the assumption:
- When looking from the side at your leaf spring rear hangar, the shackle should be slightly greater than 90 degrees with the bottom a little further towards the rear of the vehicle.

Generally speaking, the overall length of the shackle from the centres of the bolts translates to approximately 43% in added lift to the rear of the vehicle. I just went through this getting custom shackles made in case you were thinking I have nothing better to do than geometry on my Land Cruiser... I wanted to be left with a slight rake towards the front so that when I am loaded down, it sits level. I can't stand the common rear slouch most Cruiser's have. There is nothing wrong with them, it is just my personal perception that they look like they are sagging. All the new lift kits out there do the same thing, slightly less lift in the rear than in the front... supposedly it is supposed to help with braking...

So in your case, all things being equal, your 3.5 inch shackles will be giving you approximately 1.5" of lift. To get an extra inch of lift in the back, you would need to go with 5.75" shackles (centre of bolt to centre of bolt). A little more if you want a bit of rake. Make sense?

If you do decide to extend your shackles, I highly recommend greasable pins, they will help smooth out the ride (and keep it that way)

 

[JDM Journeys]

Doh! My bad, I had my conversions backwards! Now I am going to be the one displaying symptoms of mental breakdown, lol Thanks for catching that! I would expect no less from a teacher! Please don't tell me my current grades...

Now, back to the build... I hate to use generalities, because each machine will be slightly different, and have its own characteristics. Here is the assumption:
- When looking from the side at your leaf spring rear hangar, the shackle should be slightly greater than 90 degrees with the bottom a little further towards the rear of the vehicle.

Generally speaking, the overall length of the shackle from the centres of the bolts translates to approximately 43% in added lift to the rear of the vehicle. I just went through this getting custom shackles made in case you were thinking I have nothing better to do than geometry on my Land Cruiser... I wanted to be left with a slight rake towards the front so that when I am loaded down, it sits level. I can't stand the common rear slouch most Cruiser's have. There is nothing wrong with them, it is just my personal perception that they look like they are sagging. All the new lift kits out there do the same thing, slightly less lift in the rear than in the front... supposedly it is supposed to help with braking...

So in your case, all things being equal, your 3.5 inch shackles will be giving you approximately 1.5" of lift. To get an extra inch of lift in the back, you would need to go with 5.75" shackles (centre of bolt to centre of bolt). A little more if you want a bit of rake. Make sense?

If you do decide to extend your shackles, I highly recommend greasable pins, they will help smooth out the ride (and keep it that way)

I give you an A+. Actually the current AB Ed vernacular is "excellent", or "proficient".

100% helpful @Rigster . Appreciate it. I've actually found a few shackles online that are in the exact range of what you postulated... 5.71 inches eye to eye are the ones I'm looking at. Haven't pulled the trigger yet, but likely will soon. Probably order bushings at the same time and call it an an upgrade.

It'll help get that bumper off the ground a bit too.

 

[Rigster]

I give you an A+. Actually the current AB Ed vernacular is "excellent", or "proficient".

100% helpful @Rigster . Appreciate it. I've actually found a few shackles online that are in the exact range of what you postulated... 5.71 inches eye to eye are the ones I'm looking at. Haven't pulled the trigger yet, but likely will soon. Probably order bushings at the same time and call it an an upgrade.

It'll help get that bumper off the ground a bit too.

So gracious! I wish I had more teachers like you when I was growing up in school, lol. Of course, maybe if I wasn't such a little I might have had a much more positive experience!

Depending on the current condition of the bushings and shackles on your beast, if they are binding up in anyway, restricting free movement, you should be pleasantly surprised by the ride with new bushings and greaseable pins.

The other option would be to pull the springs right out and take them to a shop to have them recurve them a little more to give you a bit extra lift in the back. This is still an option if you do not get quite all the way with shackles alone should you choose this route. Perhaps a combination of the two??? This is probably your most cost effective solution, especially if you already have a quality set of 2" OME lift springs in there!!

I also noticed my rear springs have six leaves, fronts have seven.

This is normal, as the front ends on the HD cruisers are, well... HEAVY, with the larger diesel engines and HD drivetrain. Don't let anyone talk you into an "add a leaf" option for the rear to get a little lift, as then you will be left with a VERY stiff and unforgiving ride... I guarantee you will NOT be happy with the ride.

Whichever route you go, I wish thee nothing but bliss with the results!

 

[JDM Journeys]

I'm still mulling the springy situation. Meanwhile, maintenance never sleeps.

Even when my helper does!

Oil change on the Prado 90, and then on to cooling system overhaul on the 77. Which meant of course that puppers had to go in the house.

Started by trying to find that damned block drain. There are pics of it all over the internet, in many places, shapes and sizes. Finally I gave up and started looking really closely at what looked likely. Pulled the LHS wheel, and the inner fender skirt. Finally came across a brass bolt that looked like there was a drain below it's extended socket. BINGO!

So ON THE JDM 1HZ (since it seems to be in many places) its almost directly below the spot on the IP where all the pipes converge... tried to get a pic of it while my hose was directing the coolant into a bucket. Not super helpful I know, but might help someone...

If you look closely at my blue circle, you can see where my hose plugs onto the end after you pull the brass plug.

That's a start... more to go.