Builds OL'BETSY ZX: Rust-o-mod (1991 HZJ77)

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For the record, hose was green in last pic. Coolant was not. I like mine pink.

Today was the start of my truck's cleanse. LOL. I refilled the empty cooling system with water and Thermocure. I have many friends who've used this with good success, and although my system didn't look *that* bad, there was a disturbing amount of rust at the bottom of my overflow jug.
IMG_20210727_194926931.jpg

(Of course that's not the kitchen sink. Don't be silly... 🙈)
I hope the first few pages of this build proved my dedication to rust eradication? I don't want it in my water jacket either...

IMG_20210728_115737885.jpg


The extension and sealed funnel allowed me to add the water and Thermocure then run the engine up to OT to get all the air bubbles out.

Now it's a matter of letting the elixir do its work. I'm going to leave it in there for 4 days or so, to maximize the benefits, while I drive the truck to allow lots of circulation. Then I'll flush it again with water as many times as necessary before refilling with 50/50 HOAT coolant. Before the final fill I'll also replace upper and lower rad hoses, and thermostat and rad cap, for good measure.
 

Onur

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What are Thermocure’s properties? How does using it provide a benefit for our cooling systems?

Equally effective on cast iron as well as aluminum engine materials? Or dissimilar metals like the KZ or FZ families of engines vs say the HZ/HD family of engines?

Comparison vs. just flushing new coolant or just even water?
 
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What are Thermocure’s properties? How does using it provide a benefit for our cooling systems?

Equally effective on cast iron as well as aluminum engine materials? Or dissimilar metals like the KZ or FZ families of engines vs say the HZ/HD family of engines?

Comparison vs. just flushing new coolant or just even water?
Yes.
 
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Here's a non-advertorial look at Thermo Cure's usage... THERMOCURE | Cooling System Rust Remover - DSPORT Magazine - https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/thermocure-cooling-system-rust-remover/

I am not a chemistry teacher, just a general science teacher (plus Math, LA, PhsEd, and Art), but essentially it uses chelation - it bonds only with the iron content in the cooling system. It is almost neutral in its pH value, so it isn't harmful if trace amounts end up being left in the cooling system, but after running it for a few days, you simply flush it out (multiple times probably) until the water runs clear, and then refill with the usual 50/50.

This is a rust-remover product plain and simple. It chemically bonds with existing rust, whether its on the impeller, in the coolant passages, or in the rad. Dissimilar metals such as iron and copper make rust happen faster, and even aluminum has some galvanic hanky panky with the engine block, but thermocure chemically bonds with the rust, puts it in suspension, and it runs out with the water.

Evaporust is under the same umbrella as thermocure, so if you're familiar with this product, you'll know its effectiveness.
 

Gun Runner 5

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Here's a non-advertorial look at Thermo Cure's usage... THERMOCURE | Cooling System Rust Remover - DSPORT Magazine - https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/thermocure-cooling-system-rust-remover/

I am not a chemistry teacher, just a general science teacher (plus Math, LA, PhsEd, and Art), but essentially it uses chelation - it bonds only with the iron content in the cooling system. It is almost neutral in its pH value, so it isn't harmful if trace amounts end up being left in the cooling system, but after running it for a few days, you simply flush it out (multiple times probably) until the water runs clear, and then refill with the usual 50/50.

This is a rust-remover product plain and simple. It chemically bonds with existing rust, whether its on the impeller, in the coolant passages, or in the rad. Dissimilar metals such as iron and copper make rust happen faster, and even aluminum has some galvanic hanky panky with the engine block, but thermocure chemically bonds with the rust, puts it in suspension, and it runs out with the water.

Evaporust is under the same umbrella as thermocure, so if you're familiar with this product, you'll know its effectiveness.
Cliff Notes:
It‘s magical goo that cleans the crap out of your cooling system. 😊
 

Onur

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Here's a non-advertorial look at Thermo Cure's usage... THERMOCURE | Cooling System Rust Remover - DSPORT Magazine - https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/thermocure-cooling-system-rust-remover/

I am not a chemistry teacher, just a general science teacher (plus Math, LA, PhsEd, and Art), but essentially it uses chelation - it bonds only with the iron content in the cooling system. It is almost neutral in its pH value, so it isn't harmful if trace amounts end up being left in the cooling system, but after running it for a few days, you simply flush it out (multiple times probably) until the water runs clear, and then refill with the usual 50/50.

This is a rust-remover product plain and simple. It chemically bonds with existing rust, whether its on the impeller, in the coolant passages, or in the rad. Dissimilar metals such as iron and copper make rust happen faster, and even aluminum has some galvanic hanky panky with the engine block, but thermocure chemically bonds with the rust, puts it in suspension, and it runs out with the water.

Evaporust is under the same umbrella as thermocure, so if you're familiar with this product, you'll know its effectiveness.

Cool. Thanks. Seems like a good products for old truck cooling systems.
 
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For the record, hose was green in last pic. Coolant was not. I like mine pink.

Today was the start of my truck's cleanse. LOL. I refilled the empty cooling system with water and Thermocure. I have many friends who've used this with good success, and although my system didn't look *that* bad, there was a disturbing amount of rust at the bottom of my overflow jug.
View attachment 2744488
(Of course that's not the kitchen sink. Don't be silly... 🙈)
I hope the first few pages of this build proved my dedication to rust eradication? I don't want it in my water jacket either...

View attachment 2744487

The extension and sealed funnel allowed me to add the water and Thermocure then run the engine up to OT to get all the air bubbles out.

Now it's a matter of letting the elixir do its work. I'm going to leave it in there for 4 days or so, to maximize the benefits, while I drive the truck to allow lots of circulation. Then I'll flush it again with water as many times as necessary before refilling with 50/50 HOAT coolant. Before the final fill I'll also replace upper and lower rad hoses, and thermostat and rad cap, for good measure.
I am definitely interested to hear the results of the flush, Phil! IE: I am hoping that by cleaning out the scaling, there is some better flow, then things on average run a little cooler. Let me know! I also hope it is not corrosive in any way, causing some leaks afterwards? I have heard of that happening on the rare occasion. That is not necessarily a bad thing though, as it shows you a problem then, as opposed to when you are 3000km from home on the side of some trail out of cell service.

Based on the picture, and the very design of the product, this is a put in, leave in, gravity fed "flush" - not really a flush, but a treatment? Then flushing will come later?

I am assuming this should be done in the summer - it is not really an "antifreeze"?

In case you have not already picked up the long life toyota coolant, the best price I found was from Sherwood Park Toyota, and they carry the 55/45 that is good to -42C for $19.04/gallon. You will need 3 gallons. Go HERE

20210730_061150[1].jpg


20210730_061150[1].jpg
 
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Definitely not made for cold weather - no different than straight water. I bought the thermo cure a while back, but was reluctant to put it in until summer when below zero C's were a virtual impossibility (that's freezing point, for all you @Gun Runner 5 's out there. 😂 )

Non-corrosive for sure. Neutral pH makes it pretty forgiving. Thermocure's attraction to iron oxide is akin to Sharon Stone's obsession in Fatal Instinct, except it won't hurt your pet bunny rabbits. o_O And yeah, the "flushing" is akin to flushing the toilet - fill it with water and pull the plug.

Oh, I have a new addition on the truck today. Well two actually. Just waiting for the last bits to arrive before revealing.
 
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Nailed it!

I've always loved the classic old Hella 500's and have had several sets over the years. This time around, I decided to go with the Hella 500 Valuefit LED, since it was happy to accept 10 - 30 volts. It also includes an extra light on the lower perimeter, which acts like a quasi-DRL, if that's your thing. These are a driving light pattern, with a color temp of 6000k or 2560k with the amber covers in place. And only 22.5 watts of consumption (I'm assuming that's per bulb).

I ordered the kit, which included a really nice weathertight wiring harness with two relays, and a 3 way switch! Made it so easy. Only one caveat. The lights, while they can take 24v, are wired with their most typical 12v customer in mind, and so I had to source some 24v relays to complete the install. They came today, along with two amber shields (kit came with black opaque covers). Tomorrow I'll finish up the install and grab a pic of the finished product.
Screen Shot 2021-07-30 at 11.03.07 PM.png


First impressions are positive - all metal construction, nice tight harness fittings, SS hardware, rubber mounting isolator, multiple fasteners to aid in aiming and steadying. These appear to be built with a hard life in mind. Perfect for any 70 Series? Possibly...
 
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ooooo... NICE! I like em! Yes, that is the nice thing about LED, is just about all can handle the higher voltages. That is why you see so many of the big rigs with LED lighting as many of them are still rocking the 24v systems.

That was one of the things I was trying to figure out when I was bidding on the Cruisers, was WHEN they switched from 24v, ultimately I did not know until it landed and I picked it up.
 
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ooooo... NICE! I like em! Yes, that is the nice thing about LED, is just about all can handle the higher voltages. That is why you see so many of the big rigs with LED lighting as many of them are still rocking the 24v systems.
I thought almost any LED could do 24v but my experience with interior lighting says otherwise. I went through 6 manufacturers before I found leds that would function at 24v. Maybe I started too cheap? 😚

In any event many publish their ratings, and many don't. Hella obviously does, and these are up to 30v as I said, so good to go.

Shots of lights are mostly meaningless, esp from front on, so I'll include a few just for proof of concept.

Here's the switch first. Careful carving, drilling and filing allowed it to go in a factory blank. Not lit, and not fancy, but adequate for now.
IMG_20210731_130511348.jpg

Next up, the DRL type of light at the bottom of the circle. Obviously this is brighter sans covers, but still shows up pretty good going down the road... More so than this pic indicates.
IMG_20210731_130359168.jpg


Okay, full driving light mode. No feedback yet on beam pattern, spread, etc. And it's Alberta in summer, so dark nights are a ways off lol. This is of course with covers, which changes the color temp as I mentioned.

IMG_20210731_130423084.jpg


And finally, just for comparo, one covered, one not...
IMG_20210731_130434316.jpg


I'm happy with them. Hella 500s have a lot of nostalgia for me, so this setup is a nod backward but also a look into the future by using some new tech. After all. This is a rusto resto mod... 😉
 
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So, with the filter ON, does this work then like a fog light? The only complaint I have with any of the bright LED lights I put on my vehicles, is during fog or blizzards! Having a different colored (fog) light may help with that. Might be why the OEM headlights are more of a yellowy color to begin with!
 
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LOL - I also forgot to ask - is the stuffed turtle by the gear shifter a sort of symbolism or serendipitously silent soliloquy with regards to the robust and rip-roaring performance of the 70 series??? hahaha... this is poetically perfect poise! I love it! That's my kind of sense of humor!! :rofl: :clap:
 
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LOL - I also forgot to ask - is the stuffed turtle by the gear shifter a sort of symbolism or serendipitously silent soliloquy with regards to the robust and rip-roaring performance of the 70 series??? hahaha... this is poetically perfect poise! I love it! That's my kind of sense of humor!! :rofl: :clap:
So no chance to aim and test lights yet. But winter is coming.

Turtle is from a long long time ago, and began riding in Betsy #1 in 1995, all the way across Canada from BC to Nfld. He hasn't been riding along now for a while, so I thought it was time to get him back out there. And given his ummm... *affinity* with the 1HZ, it seemed... appropriate?

So finally some updates.

My order finally came in, and I was able to put in my new ignition switch.

Old one...
IMG_20210811_150404383.jpg


Old part pulled, bagged (just in case) and tagged with part number in all its hyphenated glory 'cause @Onur 's are people too. 😉

IMG_20210811_152244586.jpg


New one in situ:
IMG_20210811_152254353.jpg


The new one didn't come with an integrated buzzer harness and while I could've cut the old buzzer harness' entanglement and reinstated it, I didn't miss the obnoxious key-in reminder one little bit.

Also got a chance to wax my tailgate table's sliding extension, and my rear baseplate. I used a food safe OSMO wax that my brother recommended (he works in a wood place and knows things). I did two thin coats to preserve a ghost of a grain in the plywood, while sort of matching my interior.
IMG_20210809_081401755.jpg

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Finally, I hooked an airline and mini bleeder onto my slave cylinder and gravity bled a bit more air out of the system. Just sitting in the garage idling, the clutch feels better. But driving it will tell the tale.

Edit: it's gray in real life, but the pics make it look whitewashed.

Edit 2: I realize I missed the chance to say "waxing my wood". 🙊🤣 Maybe next time?
 
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So my new ignition switch didn't cure my woes, as I recently posted in the "1hz no crank" thread. Nor did replacing some green lugs on the power and ground cables.

Ultimately I had to dismantle the starter. It was full of dirt and dust from 30 years of use. Here's what it looked like right after I extracted it...
IMG_20210814_171343135.jpg

(note to self: oil filter has to come out to get the starter free). I gave the armature a little 600 grit attention, greased the bearings, and cleaned everything thoroughly. Also gave the contacts and plunger a looksie.

So far it's been working as it should.

So it's back to the cooling system. Time to drain the Thermocure. The first flush yesterday yielded a black liquid, as expected. Second drain (after letting it run for a while) was slightly lighter - let's call it dark gray? This morning's drain was medium gray. So we are getting there.

IMG_20210824_155257621.jpg


Also took the opportunity to replace upper and lower rad hoses, and the stat, gasket, and cap. The existing thermostat looked like it could be a recent replacement but I had it apart at that point so may as well replace it?

IMG_20210824_140906837.jpg
IMG_20210824_143644808.jpg


Time to go and do another flush. I'll be using water until it runs clear. Then a flush with some distilled water, and finally "pink gold". I suppose that's called "rose gold" nowadays? 🤣
 
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Odds and ends today. Got a decal kit from a FB group, technically for a 60 series indicator/wiper stalk. It doesn't match up perfectly, but it'll do. Can't find my before pics, but will keep digging. Much of the factory paint had worn off both stalks, so with some judicious cutting and reinterpreting of the decals, I now know where my controls are sitting. And more importantly, my wife will know how to operate the wipers in the rain, assuming she drives it again. Lol.
IMG_20210828_130431756.jpg
IMG_20210828_130403751.jpg
 

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