Ok-WTF am I doing wrong? Or ih8drums (1 Viewer)

[RedHeadedStepChild]

Swapped the calipers out on the 44, and figured I'd take a few minutes and swap the shoes
.....

It's been more than a few minutes.

The right side went together, but the brakes are nearly locked.
For the life of me I can't get the drum even remotely close to going on the left side.
I've opened the bleeder and compressed the wheel Cylinder as far as it will go. The adjuster is all the way in. The bell rank is as loose as it can go. What am I missing?

 

[Rice]

Those shoes don't looked seated on the bottom. From the pic it appears the spring is pinned in there where the shoe sits.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Adjuster needs to be fully collapsed. I can see 3-4 threads showing. Collapse it and you'll have more room to get the drum on.

 

[RedHeadedStepChild]

Tops

Underside

 

[RedHeadedStepChild]

Adjuster fully collapsed (I know the pawl is busted. Getting one on order tomorrow morning)

 

[Rice]

Ahh, good underside pic .... nope ..... looks like it should down there. May be time to pull off and compare dimensions with the old shoes.

BTW, GM designated shoes for the front of the drum and for the rear. Toyota do that as well?

Also, it looks like you used a new adjuster .... see how it compares with the old one as well.

 

[Roxx]

Your ajuster plate has to be on top of the ajuster well. You are about 5mm off. Either the ajuster is the wrong one or it is not seated well in the shoe.

 

[RedHeadedStepChild]

The plate is broken. I'll be ordering a new one today.

 

[roadstr6]

That cylinder looks like the it is not fully collapsed to me. The piston ends should sit well inside the boots and not standing proud like they show in the pics. It is very common for one side of the cylinder to rust into place. Usually it is the non-adjusting side. Do both sides spin freely in their bores? If not, one of them is frozen in place.

 

[angerhater]

I agree with Dave ... cylinders look extended

other possible solution , maybe use a grinder and dig out the notch where the adjuster sits , but only if the cylinder checks out all good and the pads are not even seated on the cylinders

 

[dbenke]

I would replace or rebuild the wheel cylinders, they are way extended.

 

[RedHeadedStepChild]

@Rice and @Roxx FTW.

The groove in the new adjuster is really tight and will not seat fully.
In the pics you can see where the new one sits relative to the wear mark from the old.
You can also see how the old one had a slight flair, more than the new.

I had debated buying new wheel cylinders, but cheaped out since they weren't leaking. Probably should just suck it up and make sure it's all good.
Thanks guys.

 

[RedHeadedStepChild]

I am using a refurbish kit I got from SOR a few years ago.
The end on this adjuster is ridiculous. It had a big fat casting seam all around the inside, and was too fat at the base of the fork.
It's as if the vendor got the casting and said, "screw machining! We've gotta make a shipment!"
Bit of grinder work and it fits now. Though it probably would have been easier to just put the old end back in.

 

[RedHeadedStepChild]

BOOM!!!
Once again, thank you all.

 

[angerhater]

glad you have it fixed

 

[RedHeadedStepChild]

glad you have it fixed

Yeah, me too.
I had been hoping to drop the oil and address the parking brake this weekend. Oh well, we'll see if I can sneak that in some time before LR.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Nice work!

I thought the parking brake problem was the unavailability of the cable. Did you find a source?

 

[RedHeadedStepChild]

Nice work!

I thought the parking brake problem was the unavailability of the cable. Did you find a source?

No I didn't.
I think it's California Push Pull can do custom work, but before that I'm just going to try a Dorman repair kit so I can have functioning brake for LR.

 

[GarnerFJ40]

You can argue that the single retaining screw holding the drum on makes no difference, but in the world of LC vibrations and wheel balancing, I'd replace it. With some anti-seize!

 

[RedHeadedStepChild]

You can argue that the single retaining screw holding the drum on makes no difference, but in the world of LC vibrations and wheel balancing, I'd replace it. With some anti-seize!

Yes, I agree. God only knows where on the globe those two screws now reside. Thanks for bringing it up actually. I meant to ask if anyone knows if these have a standard head or it there are a Mr. T. special that I'll need to order.