OK...so is this the correct assessment? (1 Viewer)

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Oct 27, 2003
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My vibration was cured in the steering wheel with replacing with bobby longfields, new inner and outer wheel bearings, although I think a thoroughly cleaning with disassembly and repacking of the birf could have done the trick.


But I still have a pretty bad vibration in my butt. I mean watch the passenger seat shake side to side. Does that mean the rear wheel bearings are shot? AS far as I know they are the orginals and I have 165K on them.
 
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If you can feel a vibration in your driver's seat it is almost certainly not the rear wheel bearings but something with more mass like a drive shaft, etc. Your rear wheel bearings should be repacked, of course - especially if you do not know their condition. Normally it would be a cheap and quick service, but the guy you take your truck to will likely recommend a complete teardown of the rear differential, new rear springs and such. Heh, heh, heh.

Actually, good luck convincing someone you actually HAVE rear wheel bearings. I'll buy you a cup of coffee if your mechanic does not say "No, you don't have repackable rear wheel bearings - they're lubricated with differential oil".

DougM
 
The whole car shakes...not extremely bad but extremely annoying. The mechanic I took it to knows the rear wheel bearings are replaceable because he said he didn't do them in order to help me with price.

I guess I should have done them. What is the recommended service interval to replace the rear wheel bearings?

And do you really think it is the drive shaft? If so, which one rear or front? I guess that would be rear. Prolly a stupid question.

I recently tried to see if there was any play in the driveshaft u joint and didn't find any at all. It was tight. Could you drop some science on me Doug?
 
driveshshaft?

IdahoDoug said:
If you can feel a vibration in your driver's seat it is almost certainly not the rear wheel bearings but something with more mass like a drive shaft, etc.
DougM


So why do the these cruisers have such problems with the driveshafts?
 
Cruisers don't have any chronic drive shaft problems. Like any specialty vehicle they do have problems with ill-informed mechanics working on them. One common mistake is improperly installing the front drive shaft, however. Tell your mechanic that the front drive shaft should be 90 degrees out of phase and see what he says. The rear should be in phase.

If you checked your shafts for tightness in park, then the weight of the vehicle was probably on them and the shafts would naturally be held tight. Common mistake. Do it in N on a flat surface.

Your vibration description is completely lacking any other helps to diagnose remotely, however. There is no way a list like this can do that as vibrations can come from tires, driveshafts, and a raft of other problems.

DougM
 
I also have the annoying shake in the butt and in the passenger's seat when I look over driving (though mainly around 65-75 mph, and at roughly 2400 RPMS...)

I've concluded it's probably the drive shafts or the u-joints. I'd like to get the Slee Double cardan's, but with all things LC, money is tough these days. I'm planning more PM and that's on my list, though close to the bottom at this point.

Still have more to go before I can even consider getting modfications...I want this thing to last forever...well, at least close to it... :flipoff2:

Thanks for the tips Doug.
-onur
Akron, OH
 
Vibrations in the seat of your pants are usually rear wheel issues from my experience. Not sure about the bearings themselves but maybe in the tires.

I just put on my summer tires today which are mounted to the alloys and was surprised to find that the wheels didn't want to easily seat on the hub. Luckily I was using an air impact at it had the force to pull the wheel in place. I realised what was going on when after tightening the lug nuts up a few where only finger tight. So I went around the rim again and there where still some only finger tight. Kind of strange as it was only the 2 rear wheels. I also pulled the tires and wire brushed the hub down and sanded the inside of the rim but it was still the same.

Anyway a tire not mounted properly or iout of balance can give you some vibrations which will be felt in the chair unlike the front end which is felt in the steering wheel.

If I'm not mistaken, if it was in the driveshafts than you should feel a difference between on or off the gas pedal. So while coasting with no load on the shafts they should be smoother if they are at fault.
 
I'd start by having the rear tires balenced. Could also switch the front tires to the rear. If it's not tire related, then it's probably the driveshaft.
 
Get all the tires balanced on a Hunter GSP9700, the others don't work as well.
Find one near you at this website: www.gsp9700.com
Also consider the drive shaft may have been "over" lubed, the slip yoke should not be completely filled as it pts too much pressure on the drivetrain components...
 
I have the same problem. Took it to LCS Offroad and my driveshaft turns out not being totally straight. Surprising yes, I'm guess I did something when going over rocks I don't know. Make sure your tires aren't square. Check to make sure they're all balanced, and the make sure it's in phase(driveshaft that is), I put my front driveshaft on wrong one time and it vibrated in the front like hell. Also do you hear a noise in the cab while your driving at say 45+ miles?
 
Vibration felt in the seat of the pants points to the rear. Does the vibration go away when you back off the skinny pedal? If the vibration goes away I would look at the rear tires. A tire can show balance even if it has road force (heavy spot) issues there is where the Hunter is need. Have the tire shop run the Road force test before they check for balance. How old are the tires on the 80?
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
Vibration felt in the seat of the pants points to the rear. Does the vibration go away when you back off the skinny pedal? If the vibration goes away I would look at the rear tires. A tire can show balance even if it has road force (heavy spot) issues there is where the Hunter is need. Have the tire shop run the Road force test before they check for balance. How old are the tires on the 80?


If when he's off the pedal if it goes away wouldn't that point to the rear driveshaft?


Would most tire places have the road test?
 
nyk438 said:
If when he's off the pedal if it goes away wouldn't that point to the rear driveshaft?

Yes you are right ...I was thinking one thing and typing another :doh:

nyk438 said:
Would most tire places have the road test?

The Hunter is the only balancer I have found with Road Force. Anyone know of others?
 
One question, is there any other way to remedy a driveshaft not being straight other than replacing it? I'm guessing a new one costs in the 3-400 dollar range :eek:
 
You can get a vibration from loose bearing in the rear if the bearings are loose enough(done enough test drive and repairs). But I also think you may have the clue with the one old tire. Maybe a combination of the both. The rear wheel bearings are just the same as the front and really need repacking when the front does. so toyota reccommends the front wheel bearing done every 30k miles. That said I have seen rear wheel bearing be good at 150k miles with no service, way looooooooose but still good. Grab the top of the tires and shake the wheel back and forth to see how loose they are. It is only a two hour service(for both sides) and the seals (wheel seals, inner axle seal, hub gasket 2 each, and gear lube). One thing that does happen when the wheel bearing are not keep tight in back is that they wear into the spindle Land, which over time will make you buy a whole new rear axle if they get too worn. I have seen a couple axles be close to screwing the axle, but still serviceable. Any how good luck. later robbie
 
robbie said:
That said I have seen rear wheel bearing be good at 150k miles with no service, way looooooooose but still good. Grab the top of the tires and shake the wheel back and forth to see how loose they are. It is only a two hour service(for both sides) and the seals (wheel seals, inner axle seal, hub gasket 2 each, and gear lube). robbie

two hours labor. OK. SO I guess the front is much longer laborwise because of the birfs and the steering knuckle, lockers, etc.

I have the parts for the rear. So actually, $100 should be enough, right?

I know need to get 4th tire replaced but I just don't think it is causing this much vibration. With that said, I will still replace it this weekend and tell you guys of any change.
 
I think Robbie said 2 hours (sounds resonable). So it's going to be more than $100. Shop rate around here (Canada) is like $70 to $90/hour. So that's like $150 to $200.

Also before you go taking it in to Johnny mechanic, note that a special tool SST is required to work on the rear. That SST is in the $50 price range from Toyota and before you have someone tear into it, I'd make sure they understand that.
 

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