OK, I feel like my mechanic failed me. (1 Viewer)

[allen_ajones]

I got the new Bobby Longfields (chromoly) for my FZJ80 and smartly asked for the old birfields and they looked fine.

If it wasn't for the mechanic (Toyota Lexus Care in San Diego) saying he had seen this before about the vibration in the steering wheel at high speeds only on curves in the highway, I probably wouldn't have considered even passing on the OEM birfields for Bobby's Longfields.

He claimed it is the "CV joints" or "outer axles". He said he has never had to replac the steering knuckle bearings to fix this sort of thing. He mentioned how they were a PITY because of the shims, etc..

So, any comments.. caused I'm pretty pissed off and the only thing that calms me down is the fact that I know I have some kick ass birfields but I don't even rock climb my rig.

 

[Bear80]

not sure what your problem is, but if there wasn't any clicking while turning then the birfields were most likely ok. and there is no such thing as shims in the wheel bearings. find a better place to get work done is the first step. and was it a toyota/lexus dealer? the dealer doesn't always know how to work on it correctly but most can read the repair manual as anyone else. just more reason I don't let anyone touch my cars. sorry to hear you got the short end but hey if you want to pull the longfields out and sell them cheap let me know.

 

[lowenbrau]

and there is no such thing as shims in the wheel bearings.

You're right but he was talking about knuckle bearings which are a bit of a pain and do take shims to set up.

allen_ajones
I don't know what to say about this mechanic but if you are not giving the rig any hard use, Longs might have been a bit of overkill. The good news is you won't be breaking them any time soon.

 

[Riley]

The shims he is refering to are the knuckle bearing shims (not the wheel bearings).

I think you better start off telling us what the history is. Let me guess and you can correct me.

You had this vibration in the steering wheel and they suggested the birfs?
and then you replaced them with the Bobbylongs?

Anyway you get the idea. The facts man, just give us the facts.

btw - always replace the knuckle bearings when doing a birf job. Just record the shim positions and put them back exactly how they were. It will be fine, I've never heard of anyone that had to reshim them differently then how they came out of the box.

edit - ok I searched your old posts to try to get an idea as to what's going on. Not much help. It does sound like the dealer suggested that the "outer axles" were the problem. Who did the work? the dealer? I wouldn't think so if you didn't use OEM birfs. I think you should have posted your problems here first and the gang would have steered you right.

 

[IdahoDoug]

The shims are NOT to be messed with by the owner. Unlike the adjustable knuckes on the 40s on up, these have a single shim that accounts for the manufacturing size of the components - essentially accounting for the expected variation of production assembly. Future work in this area requires replacement of the exact size shime. ABS sensor is one thing that could get screwed up. I've done some 80 shim experimentation,but not recommeded.

Let loose some facts on what symptom you have.

DougM

 

[semlin]

I'll buy those used oem birfs off you. PM me.

I don't see how birfields would have anything to do with a wheel vibration like that.

 

[dd113]

When he replaced the bierfields did he rebuiild the entire knuckle assy with new gaskets/seals? You do not need to take it 100% apart to just do the bierfield. If he did take it all apart and did NOT replace the knuckle bearings then yes, you sorta got ripped off.

From what you described as the problem it sounds more like wheel bearings.

All the local dealerships in Atlanta do not even offer a service charge for a knuckle bearing replacement. They say "their" book does not indicate that the bearings will ever need to be replaced.

 

[allen_ajones]

OK, I will clean them up for you. What does PM mean?

 

[Cruisin'Carolina]

preventive maint.

 

[allen_ajones]

When he replaced the bierfields did he rebuiild the entire knuckle assy with new gaskets/seals? You do not need to take it 100% apart to just do the bierfield. If he did take it all apart and did NOT replace the knuckle bearings then yes, you sorta got ripped off.

From what you described as the problem it sounds more like wheel bearings.

All the local dealerships in Atlanta do not even offer a service charge for a knuckle bearing replacement. They say "their" book does not indicate that the bearings will ever need to be replaced.

He replace the axle oil seals but did not do the steering knuckle bearings

 

[cruiserdan]

He replace the axle oil seals but did not do the steering knuckle bearings

So, he took a shower and put his dirty clothes back on then...

 

[allen_ajones]

Let loose some facts on what symptom you have.

DougM

Had the click when the wheel was turned and I accelerated. Also, had bad vibration in steering wheel at highway speeds when on a curve. No vibration when absolutely straight though. I look at the rubber bushings that connect the steering rods and they looked shot meaning squished and with a tear.

I logically thought that was the problem but I listened to the mechanic.


I forgot to mentioned he replaced the inner and outer wheel bearings as well.

 

[firetruck41]

OK, I will clean them up for you. What does PM mean?

PM (in this case) means Private Message, click on the username and a menu will drop down, click on Private Message and you can send a message to that person.

 

[allen_ajones]

So, he took a shower and put his dirty clothes back on then...

Damnit, I am pissed off now. Friggin clusless mechanic.


"Oh I have seen this before it's this...."

I am literally fuming right now.

 

[semlin]

don't feel bad, the lessons are never let a mechanic do your birfs and don't let any "toyota" mechanic tell you something needs doing that sounds screwy without floating it here first. the first birf repack on my truck was by a mechanic. I paid him for new seals but he used silicone instead and didn't even both repacking the wheel bearings which were nearly bone dry. I then did it myself properly. lesson learned.

 

[Riley]

I logically thought that was the problem but I listened to the mechanic.

Not that it matters but what did the mechanic suggest? Replacing the birfs?

If they were clinking then it's not such a waste afterall. Just the labor to get back in there (not the parts).

 

[Rich]

Had the click when the wheel was turned and I accelerated...

This is a very good indication that the birfields were worn. Replacing the birfields should have eliminated the noise you have described.

I would not attribute the vibration to worn birfields. That is or was something else.

 

[allen_ajones]

This is a very good indication that the birfields were worn. Replacing the birfields should have eliminated the noise you have described.

I would not attribute the vibration to worn birfields. That is or was something else.

I had always thought the clicking was just that the moly grease had broken down (from the axle oil mixing with the moly grease due to a compromised axle oil seal) and the ball bearings were making the noise against the bell housing.

I thought pulling the birfs and thoroughly cleaning and repacking with moly grease would do the trick.

But then I heard people saying that replacing the steering knuckle bearings always cured the clicking, that is why Slee and man-a-fre include in their 60K mile front end kits: inner and outer wheel bearings, new axle oil seals, and new Steering knuckle bearings.

So, for the record what makes the clicking sound....exactly...and what exactly cures it: the steering knuckle bearing replacement, thoroughly cleaning and repacking the birfs, or something altogether differernt?

I assume thoroughly cleaning and repacking (if in good condition) the inner and outer wheel bearings cures "vibration".........right?

 

[IdahoDoug]

1 - steering knuckle bearings have nothing to do with birf clicking.

2 - the clicking sound comes from the balls inside the birfield wearing a bit of slack, and repacking will not neccessarily eliminate or even reduce the clicking. It will dramatically reduce further wear.

3 - the actual sound comes from each ball moving from one side of the wear groove, across the groove (click) to the other side of the groove. With the wheels straight ahead, a groove is worn. With the wheels turned, the ball is pushed to one side of the groove. As it rotates, the ball goes diagonally across the groove to the other side.

4 - "vibration" comes from a hundred possible sources. If your wheel bearings are so bad they are causing vibrations or sound, then they would not be in a condition to be repacked and reused.

DougM

 

[semlin]

the clicking comes form the birfs. once you get it it is touch and go whether repacking the cure will cure it but it does sometimes work, particularly if you switch the birfields from side to side which changes the wear areas. I have never heard of clicking coming from the knuckle bearings.

the knuckle bearings are replaced because unless you remove them and clean them you will be mixing old and new grease and so if you are going to take them out anyway to do the job properly it is excellent PM to replace them at the 120 k service interval. Mine had pitting on some of the rollers and many report the same, although i don't know if this represented a serious problem ot not.