Oil Pump Seal Replacement??? (1 Viewer)

Joined
Nov 14, 2004
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1,041
Location
Kansas City, Missouri
 
 
 
Ok,

I have read through all of the posts on the difficulties of replacing the oil pump gasket when keeping the timing chain cover on, but I am going to attempted to do this as it has seems to have been done before and my leak is getting bigger.

This is my plan! First I'm planning on placing cardboard behind the radiator to protect it. Then I'm going to remove all of the belts and the crank pulley using the starter (yes I will be careful). I will follow the directions given in other threads. I will then use a small pneumatic hand impact with the appropriate Philips head attachment to remove the oil pump cover and gasket (I'm thinking that this will be easier, otherwise I think it would be impossible with a screwdriver). Has anyone done this????

My first real question is how tight (ft. lbs.) do I make the oil pump cover? It is not stated in my factory shop manual and I dont want to make it too tight or too loose and leak on me. I will also replace the front crank shaft seal while I have the crank shaft pulley off as well as replace the idle tensioner pulley.

Does this sound right? Do any of you have any good pointers on the best way to do this job while keeping the timing chain cover in?

Thanks
 
Joined
Apr 21, 2004
Messages
265
Location
Bainbridge Island
 
 
 
Be prepared with all new screws,you will mess all of them up.. Also have a right angled drill and sharp bits, cause the screw heads are made of soft material. Use a drill head that is the size of the head not the shaft. It can be fairly easily removed, use the toyota form in place gasket maker [FIPG] to hold the o-ring in place, ie suplament the o-ring with goo all the way around. Tighten in a star pattern with the attachment attached a small 3/8 ratchet.

For the crank seal use the FIPG to help hold the seal in place. Put grease on the inside where the pulley goes to keep from tearing the seal upon reinstalation.
 

powderpig

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Jul 12, 2005
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Location
Boulder Foothills, CO
 
 
 
Beside the impac, you may want heat to help with this. I have used heat to help loosen the locktite that is on the threads. good luck robbie
 
Joined
Mar 13, 2003
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5,787
Location
North Front Range, CO
 
 
 
I had to use a Dremal to cut the head of the screws so that I could get a slutted screwdriver on them as they the head strips very easly.

How are you going to get 304 ft/bls (if I remember right) on the crank nut?

You can replace some of the screws with bolts. Just make sure you don't put them in places that need the flatness of the screw.

You need a water pump?

You may as well replace it as you have the front apart anyway... At least I did.
 
Joined
Jun 16, 2003
Messages
1,802
Removing the grill and the radiator is very straight forward. Seems to me removing it is the better approach.
 
Joined
Nov 14, 2004
Messages
1,041
Location
Kansas City, Missouri
 
 
 
landtoy80 said:
Thats what I thought...Untill I tried removing it:crybaby:
I just replaced my radiator less than two months ago and really don’t want to remove the radiator again! Like Landtoy80 said, it’s no fun! I'm guessing that this job will be no fun either, but I really want to reduce the stuff I need to take apart to remove my oil pump cover.

I'm going to use a torque wrench that goes up to 400 ft. lbs. to get to my 305 ft lbs of torque and a chain wrench to hold the crank shaft and pulley in place. I'm sure this will be a two person job! I have found that you can rent very large torque wrenches at your local tool rental store for a very small fee!
 
Joined
Jun 16, 2003
Messages
1,802
Well, all I can say is that I have removed and replaced my radiator, and would do so again if I had to do any signficant work on the front of the engine. But, we all have our own preferences.
 

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