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Oil Pump Life

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by warpdriv, Dec 19, 2003.

  1. warpdriv

    warpdriv

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    I have been reading a couple threads about engine failure and got me thinking about when should the oil pump be rebuilt? You can by the rotor (pumper) for about $20.

    As the oil pump wears out, the oil pressure will drop little by little. This to me will cause premature failure of key parts that are presure dependent, like rod bearings.

    Thoughts...

    TIA,
     
  2. cruiserman

    cruiserman

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    It's just a pair of gears. Not much to wear out.
     
  3. Eduardo96FZJ80

    Eduardo96FZJ80

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    I'm with cruiserman,
    There is probably many more places in the engine, that would lower the pressure overtime (due to wear)
     
  4. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Jeff,

    $20 for the pump and about 30 hours to get in there and back out.

    -B-
     
  5. cruiserman

    cruiserman

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    There is a cover for the oil pump gears.
     
  6. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Ahhhh yes, I remember that cover now! Dan was installing the gears and the cover while I was there giving moral support and taking pics.

    Can you remove all the oil pump gears through that access cover?

    -B-
     
  7. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    Yes you can, IF you can get the counter-sunk Phillips screws loose.
    I removed the oil pump cover after the timing cover had been removed from the engine. I used an impact screwdriver to loosen the screws. It would be very difficult to remove the screws while the timing cover is in the chassis. I doubt that the screws will come loose without the use of an impact driver and it would be almost impossible to get a driver AND a hammer between the cover and the radiator support, even with the radiator removed from the vehicle.
    So, that being said, the Wulf is about right as I just spent 27 hours removing the timing cover. :p

    My oil pump gears and timing cover bearing surfaces looked very good at 116,000 K miles. I have changed oil at 3 K intervals since new. The bottom end looked great and the inside of the valve cover and the valve train also looked very good.

    D-
     
  8. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    I removed the oil pump cover with the rad in place.
    Some of the screw heads striped out. Used the Dremal to grind the screws so I could use a slotted screw driver.
    I used bolts in place of the bad screws. I put the bolts where they wouldn't be in the way of the pulley and belts.
    I didn't remove the oil pump when I had the cover off. I just replaced the seal.
    I don't under stand why the t-chain cover must come off.
    With the oil pump cover off,what holds the driven rotor and drive rotor in?
    Couldn't you just remove the relief valve and the pump?
    Is there something on the back side of the t-chain cover that holds the pump in?
     
  9. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    Kurt,

    You can remove the gears with the cover off. The problem, as you discovered, is getting the cover off. It's alot easier and less destructive to remove the cover when the assembly is on the bench as opposed to in the frame.
     
  10. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    Removing the t-chain cover is easier???

    Why remove the head(with all the stuff that goes with it),t-chain cover, oil pans, when you could just remove the crank pulley and the oil pump cover?

    The manual says to remove the t-chain cover so that would be 40+ hrs of work and big$$$ in parts.
    OR
    Remove the crank pulley 2hr job and no$$$

    Which would you do?
     
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