Oil Pump Leaking - Post TB Service? (1 Viewer)

[jerryb]

PNIT5000​

better to pull for both front and back. In my mind, it's a downtime issue and the ease with which it is to install a ton of new parts very quickly with the engine out, limited only by wallet size.

 

[abuck99]

PNIT5000​

better to pull for both front and back. In my mind, it's a downtime issue and the ease with which it is to install a ton of new parts very quickly with the engine out, limited only by wallet size.

Beyond saving from working on your back and oil dripping in your face the whole job, mission creep came to mind when I was thinking about all the preventive things you could do with motor out-

Starter, RMS, Oil cooler seal, valve cover gaskets, TB service,….

 

[cruiserpatch]

Thanks for the video ride-along of that job- which didn’t look fun- Looking back on the job- would you do it the same way again or pull the motor?

I would undoubtedly do it the same way. It's not hard. Like most things on this truck, it just takes a long long time to do it right, but it's not difficult at all.

I'd rather pull the transmission than the engine to replace the rear main. Pulling an engine opens a lot of can with many worms...in my mind it would take longer.

But I've also not done it so

 

[jerryb]

Beyond saving from working on your back and oil dripping in your face the whole job, mission creep came to mind when I was thinking about all the preventive things you could do with motor out-

Starter, RMS, Oil cooler seal, valve cover gaskets, TB service,….

I accidently found my excel file for that month while cleaning laptop, very easy to go over 3k in parts. I still feel good about it though.

 

[cruiserpatch]

I accidently found my excel file for that month while cleaning laptop, very easy to go over 3k in parts. I still feel good about it though.

I’m guessing you pulled your engine? I might be buying another 100 soon and have considered pulling it to take care of all the maintenance at the same time

 

[jerryb]

I did. Pretty easy. I wonder if it would have been faster to take the tranny with it.
Lots of if's

 

[cruiserpatch]

I did. Pretty easy. I wonder if it would have been faster to take the tranny with it.
Lots of if's

Lots of IFS if’s indeed…

 

[Fsikalasinh]

345k and went into do my timing belt. It looks like I'll be doing the oil pump o-ring as well. Looks like mine has been leaking for years based on how crusty mine was!

 

[Alexl]

Wow cool thread! My 2000 LX470, 276,000 miles, is at Toyota right now. Started out as a crank seal job, found a leaky oil pump, and we're doing the TB, WP, hoses, various seals, etc, while we're in there.

Total price is going to be quite spicy but worth it to me. I had a new transmission installed 3 years ago, so I'm hoping everything to come out dry and brand new and I won't have to touch it for a while. Now how about that brake master accumulator that sometimes fails around 300k...

 

[2001LC]

Wow cool thread! My 2000 LX470, 276,000 miles, is at Toyota right now. Started out as a crank seal job, found a leaky oil pump, and we're doing the TB, WP, hoses, various seals, etc, while we're in there.

Total price is going to be quite spicy but worth it to me. I had a new transmission installed 3 years ago, so I'm hoping everything to come out dry and brand new and I won't have to touch it for a while. Now how about that brake master accumulator that sometimes fails around 300k...

Mileage and or years, is poor indicator of brake master health.

Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.

First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[LWA55DAL]

Ok guys. Joining the fun. I just pulled the pans to on the ‘01 LX to finally pin the ARB bumper and realized I have an oil leak coming out of the plastic cover behind the crank. I have 208k on the clock and did everything on the front of the engine at 170k except the AC compressor - literally everything. At the time I did all of the work I noticed a leak just above the crank, but assumed it was the crank seal and did the cam and crank seals at the same time. I know I installed the seals correctly, but I thought it was the crank seal at the time, Now reading through the thread and questioning my own ability - I think it was/is likely the pump o-ring. I think I now understand the scope of the project, but candidly - wile I can do the job - I am not going to drop the diff or pull the engine and I don’t trust anyone to do it for me. I just dumped a bottle of AT205 into it last night. I have been running Mobil 1 fully synthetic, not HM, since I acquired it about 6 years ago so likely going to at least start using HM.

So finally the question - how bad does this leak get? Are there ANY alternative fixes or “sealing options” around the oil pump? If it is seaping at a single bolt - then why not cover it in RTV and put it back in (for FIPG)? I realize oil leaks are a nightmare, but a very mild oil leak is not a reason to pull the engine on a 200k mile vehicle when you are likely to cause more issues in the process.

Coming from the guy that hasn’t actually done the job - if you pulled all of the bolts and didn’t remove the pan and then installed all of the bolts with FIPG or RV - would that not be at least a help?

Ok - start shooting holes in the idea, but on the next TBS I am going to at least give this a try. I love the 100 series, but the fact that a simple $2 o-ring will cause the entire engine to be pulled on an aluminum to aluminum mating surface with a relatively low pressure is just stupid from a design perspective and if the leak is around/from a bolt then at least sealing the bolts seems like a far better option/idea.

 

[cruiserpatch]

If it is seaping at a single bolt - then why not cover it in RTV and put it back in (for FIPG)? I realize oil leaks are a nightmare, but a very mild oil leak is not a reason to pull the engine on a 200k mile vehicle when you are likely to cause more issues in the process.

I also wish there was an easier alternative. If you ignore it oil will leak out over time but it honestly won't hurt anything. Just make sure you have enough oil in there.

I do not recommend sealing the bolts as you're suggesting. Could lead to head aches removing the bolts in the future. Plus, you're already half way there at that point, why would you not just fix it at the next timing belt service? My advice, either do it right or don't do it at all.

Truth be told, I ignored it for a while but it persisted, like a splinter in my mind. Just pull the diff, pans, and pump You got this.

 

[jerryb]

At least there's the higher oil pressure bump. That's not insignificant.

 

[2001LC]

Ok guys. Joining the fun. I just pulled the pans to on the ‘01 LX to finally pin the ARB bumper and realized I have an oil leak coming out of the plastic cover behind the crank. I have 208k on the clock and did everything on the front of the engine at 170k except the AC compressor - literally everything. At the time I did all of the work I noticed a leak just above the crank, but assumed it was the crank seal and did the cam and crank seals at the same time. I know I installed the seals correctly, but I thought it was the crank seal at the time, Now reading through the thread and questioning my own ability - I think it was/is likely the pump o-ring. I think I now understand the scope of the project, but candidly - wile I can do the job - I am not going to drop the diff or pull the engine and I don’t trust anyone to do it for me. I just dumped a bottle of AT205 into it last night. I have been running Mobil 1 fully synthetic, not HM, since I acquired it about 6 years ago so likely going to at least start using HM.

So finally the question - how bad does this leak get? Are there ANY alternative fixes or “sealing options” around the oil pump? If it is seaping at a single bolt - then why not cover it in RTV and put it back in (for FIPG)? I realize oil leaks are a nightmare, but a very mild oil leak is not a reason to pull the engine on a 200k mile vehicle when you are likely to cause more issues in the process.

Coming from the guy that hasn’t actually done the job - if you pulled all of the bolts and didn’t remove the pan and then installed all of the bolts with FIPG or RV - would that not be at least a help?

Ok - start shooting holes in the idea, but on the next TBS I am going to at least give this a try. I love the 100 series, but the fact that a simple $2 o-ring will cause the entire engine to be pulled on an aluminum to aluminum mating surface with a relatively low pressure is just stupid from a design perspective and if the leak is around/from a bolt then at least sealing the bolts seems like a far better option/idea.

The oil pump O-ring, will weep a tad with age. AT-205 used in a clean engine. That is, where seals are clean so At-205 can be absorb into rubber. Which running on synthetic and or BG EPR flush helps with. May, very well take care of the weep if O-ring. I would not use HM oil, period!

I see signs of weep at O-ring, during most T-belt services. But it's typically very minor and takes 10's of thousand of miles even be noticeable. These weeps, don't make outside drip, out side of area between TB services.

Pictures of your TB service and the oil you saw at the time. Would help to, determine extent or even if a leak.

Most common leaks I see, in order of most common:

1. Tensioner bolt threads. This is from not sealing the threads of bolt as FSM instructs. The bolt passes through oil pump housing, exposed internally to crank case.
2. Crank seal. This is only when it has been replaced. I'm not seeing factory installed ones leak. I've done up to 350K mile, 24 years old.
3. Cam seal(s). Again, only when factory's have been replaced.

Getting good pictures now, of oil wet areas. Which need to include block under timing belt BK1 & BK2 upper covers. Then clean spotless and get more pictures (proof clean). Then snap more pictures, after every drive (engine run time). So to see first reappearance of oil leak/creep. Can help gives clues, as to where leak is coming from.

 

[pdot]

Shop suspects my 2001 with 200k miles has this issue. I'm considering a DIY after watching @cruiserpatch video.

A couple really dumb questions:

1. In the video, Patch makes it sound obvious that the o-ring is to blame when he sees it, but it looks just as dirty as everything else in the shot. What is he seeing there, just some oil seepage?
2. Why is the oil pan drop required? I believe the bottom of pump is attached to the front of the pan. Guessing it's not possible to just unbolt those front bolts and remove the pump?

 

[cruiserpatch]

1. In the video, Patch makes it sound obvious that the o-ring is to blame when he sees it, but it looks just as dirty as everything else in the shot. What is he seeing there, just some oil seepage?
2. Why is the oil pan drop required? I believe the bottom of pump is attached to the front of the pan. Guessing it's not possible to just unbolt those front bolts and remove the pump?

1. Oil leaks from front of the engine are cam seals, crank seal, oil pump o-ring or lack of loctite 242 applied to the tensioner pulley bolt. Most likely candidate if seals and timing belt okay becomes o-ring. There's another o-ring just like it on the back of the engine- can contribute to apparent 'rear main' leak.

2. You're correct. Can't pull the pump without pulling the pan.