Oil pump cover

powderpig

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Yesterday I pulled the front cover for the oil pump. I have had a weep for almost a month with no time to attend to it. It was not driping on the ground, but was making a mess. I hate fluid leaks of any kind. I had rebuilt this engine about 50k miles ago. I would have hoped I would have not leaks for a lot longer. When I got it apart I did notice the seal was flat (orginally a o-ring), but was less flat in a couple of places. So I looked at the cover closer and noticed that the oil ring was not sealing well in a couple of areas.
So I broke out the 220 wet/dry paper on a flat surface and started to lap the cover flat. It took a while for it to get flat again. Now I did not take any pictures as I had this all apart in the drireway (I had a customers fj40 in the garage, needing a HG on a 2f). I already had broken a #3 philips /3/8 drive driver. I earlier had rounded up the parts that the local dealer had in stock ( O-ring and front crank seal, new screws with a allen head system). All was looking good on time before I broke the driver> The local Napa had two #3 bits that could be inserted in a 5/16 scoket. This worked better then the Snapon driver that broke(maybe just plain wore out over 20 years of abuse).
Back to the cover, Laping is usually done on a lapping block, but you can use a flat surface to do this procudure. I was taught to use a figure 8 pattern to lap, this will allow for any uneven pressure on the part that is laped. Also try every so often to rotate the part in your hand or fingers. You can clean the surface first and use a sharpe to color the surface next. The first few strokes of lapping you then see the low surfaces. Continuue lapping until the sharpe color is gone.(about 20-25 min for this cover) The surface is now about as flat as you can want. Only time will tell if my weep is gone or I have another problem. Start to finish was about 3 hours on the work end of things(even running to the Napa store).
I know some sort of voodoo is working here, there has been a couple of post of oil weeps from the oil cover, now I had to do this as well. Stop with the Voodoo. later robbie
 
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Thanks for the post mine is slightly weeping also. What did you meen about the allen heads is the new better parts? Or you just upgraded bolts?
Thanks
Chris
 

cruiserdan

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The factory screws are phillips. Robbie must have found a substitue with allen heads.
 
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The countersunk philips heads seem to be the only way to get them to fit behind the crank pulley, if I remember correctly there is only about 3/16 between the 2, unless robbie found something else at the hardware store.

hardware store term used very loosely.
 

cruiserdan

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Rainy Day FZJ said:
The countersunk philips heads seem to be the only way to get them to fit behind the crank pulley, if I remember correctly there is only about 3/16 between the 2, unless robbie found something else at the hardware store.

hardware store term used very loosely.

I have seen counter-sunk allens before. Maybe he found some.
 

powderpig

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I found the allen head ones at a old local hard ware store called McGunkins. They were slightly longer but the holes in the timing cover are really deep( I checked), way deeper then the screws I used. They are also black. I can get the measurements a little later in the day. These are a flat head with the correct taper, are metric and the allen head is female. So much better way to get a good bit on the screw(imho). I am sure lawson is the maker. No I do not have the box. later robbie
 

alia176

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Really dumb question here...I've seen valve guides lapping, are you doing something similar? Are you using that wooden dowel looking thing between hands and rubbing back and forth?
 

powderpig

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No wooden dowel, jsut grab the part and then use a figure 8 pattern on the full sheet of wet/dry sand paper. A true Lapping block is a piece of stone that is totally flat with lines cut into it to catch the lapping grit and water. I keep looking for one as every once in a while it comes in handy to make parts flat or make some things thinner, but flat as well. I work in a Tool and Die makers shop when I was going to school for Diesel mechanics school. Learned lots of tricks to make parts and tools from this master Tool and die maker. Biggest thing I learned is the proper use of a sharp file.
Any how here are the measurements of the screws I bought
dia is 6mmx 1.00 mm pitch. Length of toyota screw is 13.81, one I bought is 16.16 mm. The toyota one is soft(do not know the hardness), the new one with the allen head is marked 10.9 (which I beleive is the hardness of the bolt). Hope this helps. later robbie
 
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powderpig said:
the measurements of the screws I bought dia is 6mmx 1.00 mm pitch. Length of toyota screw is 13.81, one I bought is 16.16 mm. The toyota one is soft(do not know the hardness), the new one with the allen head is marked 10.9 (which I beleive is the hardness of the bolt). Hope this helps. later robbie
Rob, I've been thinking to replace those OEM Philips also.As you said you found the allen head ones at a old local hard ware store called McGunkins.Now for the outsider (So Cal area) there are no McGunkins hardware store here.Maybe you can help me out little.Where can i get those from? or can you post the weblinks?

Thank you
 
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Robbie I take it the o-ring groove is on the engine side?

I do a good bit of lapping in another hobby, for small bits like this glass makes good surface though not as true as good granite it is close enough for home work, I had a local glass guy cut me out a piece of 3/8" plate glass just bigger than a sheet of sand papaer, the glass guy ws giving me funny looks, "what are you gonna use that for" for computer parts honest "yea sure"


I ushually use straigt strokes and turn 90 degrees between grits so that I know when this stage has remove the scratched of the last stage but on a heat sink you are goign for very high grits.

http://www.modsynergy.com/article6.htm
 
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LX, I'm sure there are ones closer to you but for those a little further east this place has consistently been able to source what I've needed. They have been really good to deal with as well (http://www.mcfadden-dale.com/).

Thanks for the measurements Robbie, I was just going to request them ;)

LX_TREME said:
Rob, I've been thinking to replace those OEM Philips also.As you said you found the allen head ones at a old local hard ware store called McGunkins.Now for the outsider (So Cal area) there are no McGunkins hardware store here.Maybe you can help me out little.Where can i get those from? or can you post the weblinks?

Thank you
 

PabloVTA

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try McMaster Carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/

they deliver in SoCal almost daily, usually by lunch if you order early enough.
The Website even lets you download drawings of everything.

This is what I got:

Part Number: 91294A238 $8.77 per Pack of 100
ISO Specification
ISO 10642

Head Style
Flat

Material Type
Steel

Finish
Plain

Class
Class 10.9

Drive Style
Hex Socket

System of Measurement
Metric

Thread Size
M6

Metric Thread Pitch
1 mm

Length
16 mm

Hex Key Size
4 mm

Thread Style
Right Handed

Thread Length
Fully Threaded

Head Diameter
12 mm

Head Height
3.3 mm

Rockwell Hardness
C32-C39

Minimum Tensile Strength
145,000 psi

Thread Fit
Class 6g

Specifications Met
International Organization for Standardization (ISO)
 

powderpig

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powderpig

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Man I got involved with some stuff and jsut posted the previous and look what appeared while I was away, Lots of cool information.
Yes glass would work great for a flat surface. Thanks guys robbie
 

spartan

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I'm doing the oil cover seal repair on Saturday....

No voodoo - I just think everybody looked for a leak after the repair write up....

It is a royal PITA to find a 600# torque wrench. It took me about 15 calls to locate one.
 
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spartan

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Update - I'm going in for the repair tomorrow morning - the parts got here today - thanks to Cdan.....

The only bummer is I have to take my wife to work first cause she won't drive my truck....
 
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cpg said:
what do you need a 600# torque wrench for?


I am wondering the same, thought the crank bolt was 300 something foot pounds?
 

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