Oil pressure gauge install.....couple of questions? (1 Viewer)

[flintknapper]

Yeah....I know, If its running and not knocking...its probably OK.

But I just can't stand the factory gauge. After warm up, basically indicates ZERO (or right at it) at idle (650 rpm). It DOES rise immediately with engine rpm, but I'd just like to be able to see numbers instead of an indicator dial.

So....my questions are:

Where do I need to install my sending unit ?

Can the factory sending unit remain in place (or be Tee'd with new sending unit) and the factory gauge still be operable?

I'm doing this from memory....but I seem to remember my FSM saying oil pressure (at idle) was something ridiculously low.....like 4 psi ?

 

[baldilocks]

Rule of thumb is 10psi for every 1000rpm's. Oil pressure gauges are quite expensive. You can buy or perhaps borrow a much less expensive test gauge to verify adequate oil pressure at the oem sender port.
The oem style senders are vague don't all give the same indication. I bet that if you replaced the sender, the gauge would read differently.
If I were to install an oil pressure gauge permanently, I would buy and electric one so there would be no oil pressure entering the cabin and I would eliminate the oem sender. No need for two gauges, especially the one you don't trust.
Correct me if I'm wrong but, there would be a red warning (idiot) light illuminated if oil pressure dropped too low.

 

[jay]

its on lower passenger side front of engine mine the oe version works just fine. put a t fitting in it an add a xtra watch making holes in the dash console etc. its your ride so do what ever the old oil pressure gauges r the s***. It moves with the prusre new stuff is a red lamp dummy lite. your farting around. its under the oil cooler actullaly ataches to it.

 

[Dave 2000]

Every 80 I have seen that has the OE gauge does not have a low pressure warning light. Finding a very accurate oil pressure gauge is going to be expensive. Purchasing and fitting the nicely packaged one at your local spares shop will mean you now have two inaccurate gauges in the cabin, if you must have accuracy then you need to look at the higher end gauges manufactured for competition use.

I went with calibration of the standard sender unit (very easy), you then see that you have pressure that responds to engine revolutions, I calibrated mine around 5 years ago, still working fine. As an asides, I also put in a 'T' with an adjustable oil pressure switch set at IIRC 20 psi, if the pressure drops that low then it flashes an LED and sounds a buzzer on the dash.

The 4psi you mention I think refers to the absolute minimum.

regards

Dave

 

[Aussiemike]

Anyone know of another gallery on the block the OE sender can be put other than the original place?

 

[cruiserdan]

When teeing-in to the factory port do not use brass pipe. Over time it will fatigue and break. Pretty messy at best and catastrophic engine failure if you don't shut the engine down soon enough.

 

[flintknapper]

Rule of thumb is 10psi for every 1000rpm's. Oil pressure gauges are quite expensive. You can buy or perhaps borrow a much less expensive test gauge to verify adequate oil pressure at the oem sender port.
The oem style senders are vague don't all give the same indication. I bet that if you replaced the sender, the gauge would read differently.
If I were to install an oil pressure gauge permanently, I would buy and electric one so there would be no oil pressure entering the cabin and I would eliminate the oem sender. No need for two gauges, especially the one you don't trust.
Correct me if I'm wrong but, there would be a red warning (idiot) light illuminated if oil pressure dropped too low.

Yes, already have the unit and sender, didn't care about the expense.....just want accuracy. Sounds like I will need to purchase an adapter to accept the OEM sending unit and the NEW sending unit.

Need to keep the factory gauge (even if inaccurate) because sometimes Mrs. Flintknapper drives the Cruiser and I can tell you for certain, she won't remember which digital gauge to look at. But she knows where the factory ones are.

Amber for Oil Pressure
Red for Trans Fluid temperature.

 

[flintknapper]

When teeing-in to the factory port do not use brass pipe. Over time it will fatigue and break. Pretty messy at best and catastrophic engine failure if you don't shut the engine down soon enough.

Yes Sir, thought of that. Especially since it will be cantilevered out from the engine block. I have ordered a stainless steel adapter. One of the threads however is 1/8" BSPT not NPT, but I can re-tap it if necessary. Thank You for mentioning the brass issue. It will help others in the future.

 

[cruiserdan]

In the past I have had decent luck carefully opening-up the female British Pipe threads with an NPT tap. I coat the tap with wheel bearing grease to trap the cuttings on the tap.

 

[Dave 2000]

When teeing-in to the factory port do not use brass pipe. Over time it will fatigue and break. Pretty messy at best and catastrophic engine failure if you don't shut the engine down soon enough.

Interesting post Dan. Is this something you have had personal experience with? I have been using brass connectors for donkey's years and never had a problem (there goes the apple cart), in fact all the competition stuff in the UK is brass AFAIK, I purchased my adaptor from 'Burton Engineering' Gants Hill UK. They have been building race engines for around 40+ years and still in business, so a fair heritage to maintain. The OE sender unit base that screws in the block, is that not brass?

Regards

Dave

 

[cruiserdan]

The base of the sender does indeed appear to be brass but it is not wobbling out on the end of a 3 or 4 inch brass pipe.

On my 1FZ I had to extend a fitting out on the intake manifold to accommodate a pressure switch and the boost gauge fitting. I had two brass pipes break due to vibrations prior to switching to steel pipe. This was a vacuum leak when it failed. 40PSI engine oil would be a lot worse.

 

[flintknapper]

The base of the sender does indeed appear to be brass but it is not wobbling out on the end of a 3 or 4 inch brass pipe.

On my 1FZ I had to extend a fitting out on the intake manifold to accommodate a pressure switch and the boost gauge fitting. I had two brass pipes break due to vibrations prior to switching to steel pipe. This was a vacuum leak when it failed. 40PSI engine oil would be a lot worse.

That was my concern as well. The adapter I chose (including the threads) is already 2" in length the sending units will 'L' off it not 'T'....so one of them will be out the end of the adapter....making the total length between 3"-4". None of this is real heavy, but still subject to vibration.

When I do the installation, I will also look to see if there is a reasonable way to brace it.

 

[Dave 2000]

I must have the same 'T' adaptor as @flintknapper, mine two IIRC is around 2" long. I cannot remember if I put the sender on the end or on the side of the 'T', the other port has the adjustable oil pressure switch for the light/buzzer.

It is a valid point to look at Dan, and given your experience I will review the installation, the diesels do tend to shake and vibrate more than the gasoline models. IIRC I do have a stainless flexible pipe that could go in the block and perhaps bring the 'T'/sender/switch to the bulkhead?

I will move it up the 'to do' list.

regards

Dave

 

[SmokingRocks]

I tapped my BPT over to NPT with no problems. Then I installed my speedhut oil pressure sender and hooked it up to my gauge.

It works well some of the time, but 70% of the time the gauge is a dead needle. I know it's not a bad gauge, and I've tested the sender and it produces resistance as it should so I'm left with a bad ground somewhere. This has been an issue since my rebuild was complete so I'm not starting to think I need to invest some serious time into improving my ground situation.

 

[jay]

Very interesting, so the amber oil light on instrument display that is for oil levels sensor ? i thaught that was linked with the pressure sending unit. I could check fsm , hmmm mine sits a hair above the line an sending unit is new. i never thaught about it like that. Im also content with the function.

 

[flintknapper]

I must have the same 'T' adaptor as @flintknapper, mine two IIRC is around 2" long. I cannot remember if I put the sender on the end or on the side of the 'T', the other port has the adjustable oil pressure switch for the light/buzzer.

It is a valid point to look at Dan, and given your experience I will review the installation, the diesels do tend to shake and vibrate more than the gasoline models. IIRC I do have a stainless flexible pipe that could go in the block and perhaps bring the 'T'/sender/switch to the bulkhead?

I will move it up the 'to do' list.

regards

Dave

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Excellent idea!

That's the kind of creative (and reasonable) thinking that keeps me coming back to MUD. Well....that and the 'willingness' of MUD members to help one another.

 

[Dave 2000]

Very interesting, so the amber oil light on instrument display that is for oil levels sensor ? i thaught that was linked with the pressure sending unit. I could check fsm , hmmm mine sits a hair above the line an sending unit is new. i never thaught about it like that. Im also content with the function.

On the UK spec diesels it is definitely not linked.

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

If you want to calibrate the sender and gauge properly, you will find the way to do it in my thread, linked in my sig.

regards

Dave

 

[PolarRunner]

Similar to what @Dave 2000 said... I have one of these on my WRX for the oil pressure sender

Zip tied the actual sender out of the way and the hose doesn't transmit vibrations. Just make sure it's a quality hose, oh and the threads are correct.

 

[flintknapper]

I like the idea of extending the units away from the engine (via a short hose). That will be a good way to eliminate any vibration issues and at the same time help facilitate the assembly of the unit (everything can be put together on the the bench then attached to the engine).

Auto Meter 3227 -4AN Braided Stainless Steel Pressure Gauge Hose | eBay

Easy to fabricate some type of a bracket that can support the adapter that way.

Great suggestions guys! I have some direction now.