Hi guys, I have been following you for some time for information about my '06 LC-100 4.2 diesel.
For the OIL PRESSURE scroll down because here I will introduce my car briefly.
It has 240 k. km. / 150 k. mi., relatively problem free.
I just do regular maintenance as prescribed by the manual and that's all.
- The biggest maintenance has been front differential broken at 160 k. km. (deep dense snow...) and
- Hydraulic suspension spheres replaced at 210 k. km. Actually, I replaced the "shocks" first without need, and then all worsened and I replaced the spheres. - I got the info from this site;
- Front torsion bars were tightened 5 turns and on the rear I installed 30mm polyurethane pads above the springs - the info came from you, thanks! I can show you the mold and give you dimensions and know how. A friend fluent in prototyping made the mold and baked the two pads for me. I am fluent in prototyping as well due to out of class activities at school;
- Recently recycled steering rack that mended some minor noises but did not mend the slack in the steering wheel (see below about the bushings in the steering column) - about 390$ with labor;
- Apart from that only oil and brake pads, replaced rear disks, the front disks are still original with last set of pads;
- At 230 k. km. I did valve clearance adjustment for the first time. One or two valves had 2-3 100's less clearance (0.02-0.03 less, it was an exhaust valve with 0.47 instead of 0.50 mm clearance);
- Once the alternator belts snapped on the highway with no further damage;
- The front wheel bearings although regularly maintained once tightened too much, broke down and were replaced with the respective Timken ones (OEM is Timken and Toyota does not sell you the same parts) at around 50$ per bearing plus the respective accessories from Toyota for about the same amount per side (locking spacers, the small conical things, etc.). They have been toughly greased and adjusted twice since;
- Almost forgot, this spring I replaced the main muffler. I searched allot, and it turned out that a company from Poland makes very good replicas of the original mufflers. In Bulgaria they are sold for 55-60$ here you go: Polmostrów producent układów wydechowych - great and tested. Actually it was scratched, so they discounted about 5$;
- The rear stabilizer bar links bushings were replaced some time ago;
- Now Toyota called me in for airbag campaign and steering shaft joint campaign;
- Some kind of bushings in the steering column (six pieces all on the shaft as I understood) have to be replaced now because of some slack or play in the steering wheel that was tracked down there due to lack of any other failures in the suspension.
I have changed oil at 12.000 km. up to around 180.000 km and then I changed my mind and do it between 8.000 and 12.000 km. I have always selected the best synthetic oil available although it is very subjective.
Initially I used Mobil-1 up to 80.000 km, then the source for Bulgaria changed and I switched to Motul 8100, then around 160.000 I went to Castrol Edge titanium FST... and the last closes the door... All oils were 5W30 and 5W40 with the lighter oil having pronounced advantage in performance and economy. I have tried Motul 300V 5W30 and the engine was feeling tight as if it is very thick. Very strange, I dumped it after 1000 km never to use it again. Once Toyota sold me a promo set of Texaco Havoline Ultra 5W40, I went on a trip of 3.000 km, the performance changed on the way back and i dumped it. Apart of that the last 80.000 km the engine is on Castrol. Now i am with Amsoil 10W40 due to the pressure concerns. (I have a Mustang GT and thus know the Amsoil distributor)
The strange oil gauge readings came about 190-200.000 km and worsened after 230-235.000 km. The gauge goes up with RPM and at steady state the reading drops a little. Then around 2000 RPM the reading is just a little higher than on idle. At 3000 RPM the needle touches the middle and goes one needle thickness below. But the most horrifying thing is that at 1800-2200 RPM the car travels 90-100-110 km/h and the reading is almost as on idle.
So I got worried and tried some cheap 10W40 just in case I got fake oil last time. It turned out that the 10W40 did almost no difference. Then I decided that the engine is old, so I found the strongest SAE 40 oil, which according to my research is AMSOIL premium protection and filled the engine with it so it can die with dignity.
Then the only thing that stopped me from buying a set of connecting rod bearings was the fact that trere are 6 sizes for original not repaired crankshaft. So there are 6 sizes of OEM factory bearings, and a single engine can have six different bearings although the most common count is 2 to 4 different sizes.
So I sent the car to repair shop and ordered manual oil pressure check with mechanical gauge.
I also ordered the turbo to be checked and the CHRA replaced if needed. The guys are experienced and very precise and the state that the turbo has no signs of wear.
- > OIL PRESSURE TEST Below:
Table of results:
Toyota Land Cruiser 100 4.2 1HD-FTE Oil Pressure mechanical gauge
Oil Pressure measured at RPM:
700 - 1.4 bar;
1000 - 2.1 bar;
1200 - 2.5 bar;
1400 - 2.8 bar;
1800 - 3.2-3.8 bar;
2200 - 4.4 bar;
3000 - 5.5 bar;
The check was sequenced two times before the filming and two times during filming with no change in readings.
The rpms are according to the dash because these are typical running speeds for me, 50-60, 80-120 and 160 km/h.
The oil is Amsoil 10W40. The garage said that below 2000 rpms I can expect 1-2 tenths less pressure with 5W30 and above 2000 maybe 0.5 bar less. The reason according to them is that the pressure regulator is only effective up to certain speed of rotation and then the pressure is governed by speed and oil viscosity.
If someone have read all this I am thankful if you are still not swearing at me!
For the OIL PRESSURE scroll down because here I will introduce my car briefly.
It has 240 k. km. / 150 k. mi., relatively problem free.
I just do regular maintenance as prescribed by the manual and that's all.
- The biggest maintenance has been front differential broken at 160 k. km. (deep dense snow...) and
- Hydraulic suspension spheres replaced at 210 k. km. Actually, I replaced the "shocks" first without need, and then all worsened and I replaced the spheres. - I got the info from this site;
- Front torsion bars were tightened 5 turns and on the rear I installed 30mm polyurethane pads above the springs - the info came from you, thanks! I can show you the mold and give you dimensions and know how. A friend fluent in prototyping made the mold and baked the two pads for me. I am fluent in prototyping as well due to out of class activities at school;
- Recently recycled steering rack that mended some minor noises but did not mend the slack in the steering wheel (see below about the bushings in the steering column) - about 390$ with labor;
- Apart from that only oil and brake pads, replaced rear disks, the front disks are still original with last set of pads;
- At 230 k. km. I did valve clearance adjustment for the first time. One or two valves had 2-3 100's less clearance (0.02-0.03 less, it was an exhaust valve with 0.47 instead of 0.50 mm clearance);
- Once the alternator belts snapped on the highway with no further damage;
- The front wheel bearings although regularly maintained once tightened too much, broke down and were replaced with the respective Timken ones (OEM is Timken and Toyota does not sell you the same parts) at around 50$ per bearing plus the respective accessories from Toyota for about the same amount per side (locking spacers, the small conical things, etc.). They have been toughly greased and adjusted twice since;
- Almost forgot, this spring I replaced the main muffler. I searched allot, and it turned out that a company from Poland makes very good replicas of the original mufflers. In Bulgaria they are sold for 55-60$ here you go: Polmostrów producent układów wydechowych - great and tested. Actually it was scratched, so they discounted about 5$;
- The rear stabilizer bar links bushings were replaced some time ago;
- Now Toyota called me in for airbag campaign and steering shaft joint campaign;
- Some kind of bushings in the steering column (six pieces all on the shaft as I understood) have to be replaced now because of some slack or play in the steering wheel that was tracked down there due to lack of any other failures in the suspension.
I have changed oil at 12.000 km. up to around 180.000 km and then I changed my mind and do it between 8.000 and 12.000 km. I have always selected the best synthetic oil available although it is very subjective.
Initially I used Mobil-1 up to 80.000 km, then the source for Bulgaria changed and I switched to Motul 8100, then around 160.000 I went to Castrol Edge titanium FST... and the last closes the door... All oils were 5W30 and 5W40 with the lighter oil having pronounced advantage in performance and economy. I have tried Motul 300V 5W30 and the engine was feeling tight as if it is very thick. Very strange, I dumped it after 1000 km never to use it again. Once Toyota sold me a promo set of Texaco Havoline Ultra 5W40, I went on a trip of 3.000 km, the performance changed on the way back and i dumped it. Apart of that the last 80.000 km the engine is on Castrol. Now i am with Amsoil 10W40 due to the pressure concerns. (I have a Mustang GT and thus know the Amsoil distributor)
The strange oil gauge readings came about 190-200.000 km and worsened after 230-235.000 km. The gauge goes up with RPM and at steady state the reading drops a little. Then around 2000 RPM the reading is just a little higher than on idle. At 3000 RPM the needle touches the middle and goes one needle thickness below. But the most horrifying thing is that at 1800-2200 RPM the car travels 90-100-110 km/h and the reading is almost as on idle.
So I got worried and tried some cheap 10W40 just in case I got fake oil last time. It turned out that the 10W40 did almost no difference. Then I decided that the engine is old, so I found the strongest SAE 40 oil, which according to my research is AMSOIL premium protection and filled the engine with it so it can die with dignity.
Then the only thing that stopped me from buying a set of connecting rod bearings was the fact that trere are 6 sizes for original not repaired crankshaft. So there are 6 sizes of OEM factory bearings, and a single engine can have six different bearings although the most common count is 2 to 4 different sizes.
So I sent the car to repair shop and ordered manual oil pressure check with mechanical gauge.
I also ordered the turbo to be checked and the CHRA replaced if needed. The guys are experienced and very precise and the state that the turbo has no signs of wear.
- > OIL PRESSURE TEST Below:
Table of results:
Toyota Land Cruiser 100 4.2 1HD-FTE Oil Pressure mechanical gauge
Oil Pressure measured at RPM:
700 - 1.4 bar;
1000 - 2.1 bar;
1200 - 2.5 bar;
1400 - 2.8 bar;
1800 - 3.2-3.8 bar;
2200 - 4.4 bar;
3000 - 5.5 bar;
The check was sequenced two times before the filming and two times during filming with no change in readings.
The rpms are according to the dash because these are typical running speeds for me, 50-60, 80-120 and 160 km/h.
The oil is Amsoil 10W40. The garage said that below 2000 rpms I can expect 1-2 tenths less pressure with 5W30 and above 2000 maybe 0.5 bar less. The reason according to them is that the pressure regulator is only effective up to certain speed of rotation and then the pressure is governed by speed and oil viscosity.
If someone have read all this I am thankful if you are still not swearing at me!
