wagonteeth
Hippoverde
I'm posting this mostly for posterity and future searches. I recently finished a head gasket and timing chain replacement.
A few things I skipped that I shouldn't have are that I forgot to check my block for flatness before dropping the hg and head. I had the means but didn't recall the step until after I had the head torqued into place. And second, I didn't check the oil pump runout before reinstalling the crank pulley.
These two items had me worried since I didn't have any info on them once everything was buttoned up.
It looks like I'm fine with the block as the head gasket has no leaks (broken timing chain was the reason for the work, hg was not leaking when I pulled the head).
After start up and test runs I only had the dash oil pressure gauge to go by. It seemed fine at start up but dropped super low after warm. The needle would point right at the bottom line or even slightly low at 2,000 rpms once warm and would bottom out when at idle. There was barely any sing of pressure from the gauge. The engine sounded good. Better than before the work, and no indication of a lack of pressure.
I bought a pressure kit and fortunately the PO already had a T on the oil pressure sensor location. I screwed the oil pressure kit hose in, secured the gauge and started the truck. Deadon 60psi at start up cold(87*F ambient). Calling the dash gauge lines 1,2,3,4, with 1 at the bottom extreme and 4 at the top extreme The dash gauge pointed just below the line 2 at 60 psi. As the truck warmed and the idle adjusted, the psi dropped. 40psi was at the midpoint between lines 1 and 2, and 30psi was just above line. At warm idle, 650rpms pressure was 21psi and the needle was a needle width below line 1. Psi at 3,000rpm was 71, so very solid pressure across the rpm range and a useless dash gauge.
I double checked my connection at the sensor and it's good. I may replace the sensor and at last resot will fiddle with the gauge as other posts show.
My take away is that you'll only know the pressure by using a oil pressure test gauge so it's worth the time to install the T. If you're doing head work and have the ac compressor and radiator out of the way, out a t in while you have access.
A few things I skipped that I shouldn't have are that I forgot to check my block for flatness before dropping the hg and head. I had the means but didn't recall the step until after I had the head torqued into place. And second, I didn't check the oil pump runout before reinstalling the crank pulley.
These two items had me worried since I didn't have any info on them once everything was buttoned up.
It looks like I'm fine with the block as the head gasket has no leaks (broken timing chain was the reason for the work, hg was not leaking when I pulled the head).
After start up and test runs I only had the dash oil pressure gauge to go by. It seemed fine at start up but dropped super low after warm. The needle would point right at the bottom line or even slightly low at 2,000 rpms once warm and would bottom out when at idle. There was barely any sing of pressure from the gauge. The engine sounded good. Better than before the work, and no indication of a lack of pressure.
I bought a pressure kit and fortunately the PO already had a T on the oil pressure sensor location. I screwed the oil pressure kit hose in, secured the gauge and started the truck. Deadon 60psi at start up cold(87*F ambient). Calling the dash gauge lines 1,2,3,4, with 1 at the bottom extreme and 4 at the top extreme The dash gauge pointed just below the line 2 at 60 psi. As the truck warmed and the idle adjusted, the psi dropped. 40psi was at the midpoint between lines 1 and 2, and 30psi was just above line. At warm idle, 650rpms pressure was 21psi and the needle was a needle width below line 1. Psi at 3,000rpm was 71, so very solid pressure across the rpm range and a useless dash gauge.
I double checked my connection at the sensor and it's good. I may replace the sensor and at last resot will fiddle with the gauge as other posts show.
My take away is that you'll only know the pressure by using a oil pressure test gauge so it's worth the time to install the T. If you're doing head work and have the ac compressor and radiator out of the way, out a t in while you have access.