Oil Pan Replacement

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Mar 20, 2019
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Hi all. I tried looking for an answer to this but came up short. I got half of my oil pan off, but am having a very hard time getting the passenger side free. There's lots of stuff in the way making it hard to get a blade in there, or flathead to wedge in there. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
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What model/year Land Cruiser are you working on? Got all the bolts and nuts removed?

Here's a good thread describing the process (Edit: for a 1FZFE):

 
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Louisville, CO
What model/year Land Cruiser are you working on? Got all the bolts and nuts removed?

Here's a good thread describing the process:

I have a '92 FJ80 not the FJZ80. I removed all 22 bolts that were on the underside of the pan & was able to get a razor in and eventually some small flatheads and pried the driver side of the pan off, but I can't seem to get access as easily to the other side. I'll try reading the above post and see if there's something helpful in there. Thanks so much for the response!!
 
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I have a '92 FJ80 not the FJZ80. I removed all 22 bolts that were on the underside of the pan & was able to get a razor in and eventually some small flatheads and pried the driver side of the pan off, but I can't seem to get access as easily to the other side. I'll try reading the above post and see if there's something helpful in there. Thanks so much for the response!!
Asking for advice from @jonheld and @Marco Lau
 
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I have a '92 FJ80 not the FJZ80. I removed all 22 bolts that were on the underside of the pan & was able to get a razor in and eventually some small flatheads and pried the driver side of the pan off, but I can't seem to get access as easily to the other side. I'll try reading the above post and see if there's something helpful in there. Thanks so much for the response!!
You want to be super careful when using flatblades to pry the pan off. Be sure not to mar the mating surface of the block.
I've used the Toyota jack against the frame rail with a block of 4x4 on the pan to spread the force. She should just pop off.
Be sure to purchase the correct OEM 1 piece cork gasket 12151-61011 and tighten the 22 bolts in a circular pattern just enough to see the cork gasket start to squeeze out.
 
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You want to be super careful when using flatblades to pry the pan off. Be sure not to mar the mating surface of the block.
I've used the Toyota jack against the frame rail with a block of 4x4 on the pan to spread the force. She should just pop off.
Be sure to purchase the correct OEM 1 piece cork gasket 12151-61011 and tighten the 22 bolts in a circular pattern just enough to see the cork gasket start to squeeze out.
I finally got the pan off. I took some advice from the FJz80 description and applied it. I removed a stabilizer/sway bar, and popped off one end of another stabilizer/sway bar, and was able to get a blade in there, and pry it open, though it took about 3 hours just to pry off the passenger side. I had to then scrape all the remnants away, and even use a metal brush on a drill to get off some of the crud. It looks like someone put gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket, though it could have just leaked through in spots I suppose. I cleaned up the pan, now I just have to get it back on!
 
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use a metal brush on a drill to get off some of the crud
Scotchbrite pads are your friend.
Be sure to clean the front and rear arch seal surfaces (bearing caps) very well. The rear arch will leak and is often misdiagnosed as a rear main seal leak.
Make sure the holes in the pan rim are not deformed from over tightening. Bang them flat before reassembly.
You can thread in a few 8mmx1.25 studs to help hold the gasket in place during reassembly. Hub studs work a charm.
 
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Is some FIPG normally used with the gasket on the a

Scotchbrite pads are your friend.
Be sure to clean the front and rear arch seal surfaces (bearing caps) very well. The rear arch will leak and is often misdiagnosed as a rear main seal leak.
Make sure the holes in the pan rim are not deformed from over tightening. Bang them flat before reassembly.
You can thread in a few 8mmx1.25 studs to help hold the gasket in place during reassembly. Hub studs work a charm.
So Ive got everything cleaned up, just want to install pan, but I cant seem to get the pan in. I looked into jacking the engine up, but I don't have a hoist at the moment, and I don't see how to jack it up without putting the jack in the way of where the pan needs to slide to get it in...
 
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So Ive got everything cleaned up, just want to install pan, but I cant seem to get the pan in. I looked into jacking the engine up, but I don't have a hoist at the moment, and I don't see how to jack it up without putting the jack in the way of where the pan needs to slide to get it in...
How'd you get it out?
 

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