Rubber? I don't think you want a rubber gasket for your oil pan... And I have no idea where to even find rubber ones... ??? What is the fel-pro one made out of?--their gaskets are usually top notch... Anyway, I have used a few different types of gaskets on oil pans and I prefer the one-piece, OEM gasket (I believe it's made out of cork). It's worked the best for me and many others. It is designed to expand and contract with the temperature. FWIW, I usually put a dab of gasket sealant in the "four corners" of the pan to make sure they seal up real nice. HTH. Good luck.
The B+A gaskets are NAPA also. You need to make then search for them but they are in the system as a 1 piece gasket that, I think, is as good as OEM. If kurt can get it for $12 or so just buy it from him. Great price.
[quote author=theferg link=board=1;threadid=9291;start=msg81032#msg81032 date=1072592051]
Dude, just make sure you are ready to do it and do it right 'cause you don't want to do it twice. Or four freakin' stinkin' times like me...
its not so much of doing it right as it is the time i have. i work 500 miles from home and i am home every other weekend and out of the day and half i am home its hard to work it in
Why not get one from Toyota? Like the Ferg said, you don't want to do it twice. You have to be careful when removing the oil pan. Mine had to be steam cleaned and then it required a bit of a blow torch to get it off. The Cruiser mechanic I talked too also told me that sometimes the skid guard under the pan breaks and that can get real expensive.
[quote author=romer link=board=1;threadid=9291;start=msg82413#msg82413 date=1072847957]...required a bit of a blow torch to get it off. The Cruiser mechanic I talked too also told me that sometimes the skid guard under the pan breaks and that can get real expensive.
More info on the blow torch method...
Having removed humdreds of oil pans (never with the gas-axe) I must here more... D
And about the skidplate on the oilpan, the spot welds between the two can eventually rust/crack, oil will slowly seep out. I saw a rusty one once that literally had oil "weeping" through its pourous metal... time for a new oil pan.
The blow torch was required because the bolts were so tight that I was afraid they would break. After the oil was drained and the underside was steam cleaned, used the torch to heat the bolts and then took them out. This was a suggestion of the mechanic at Toyota car Care who told me to try the bolts, but don't force them. If they break it could get real painful. The torch also helped loosen the pan off after the bolts were out. It was stuck tight and prying it off would impact the ability to seal. It may have not been the right way, but it worked and 6 monthes later no leaks.
I just did the oilpan gasket on my FJ60 about a month ago. Here's a couple of notes:
(*may not apply to your 40) Toyota changed the oilpan slightly in the 80's, so if you've had the oilpan itself replaced, you'll need the "new" gasket. I had to replaced the oilpan because I had a seeping, porous pan (rust). Cruiseroutfit - you didn't used to live in Mass. did you?? you described my old oilpan to a "T"!
I recommend the Toyota gasket, just my 2cents. One piece, it fits.
For a sticking pan, (thanks Nakman), we used some blocks of wood and a jack to VERY GENTLY work it free from the side. Do not pry it off!!!!
[quote author=CardinalFJ60 link=board=1;threadid=9291;start=msg82652#msg82652 date=1072899692]...Cruiseroutfit - you didn't used to live in Mass. did you?? you described my old oilpan to a "T"![/quote]
Amazing how bad they can get. When parting out trucks, we throw more away than we save... mostly due to the PITA they can be to install correctly, just to find out they leak...
Speaking of oil pans... mine has a huge dent in it I ought to fix...