oil pan gasket

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Sep 27, 2006
Grantsville, UT
I just purchased a new oil pan gasket for my 3fe. I have never changed one before and so I'm not sure what to do. I've taken off the oil pan and cleaned it up real nice but I'm not sure if I can just put the new one on there and bolt it up or do I need to put some kind of gasket sealent on? Any tips or advice is much appreciated.
I think you will have a hard time getting it to stay in place during assembly without some goop.

Make sure the old gasket main bearing sections are completely removed.

Get a helper...extra hands are useful.
I searched this a while back and folks were all over the board on what to use. There were several techniques that people claimed did well. I have done two now and one had given me some trouble but the other stayed dry. Both done the same. The leaky one has stopped since I retightened the bolts, but that may change. My experience is with the 2F but I suspect yours would be close. Getting the oil pan off can be a fight and most people recommend a bottle jack that is pushing from the side. I don't know how hard yours was to remove, but getting mine off discouraged me from putting a lot of sealant on all over. I don;t want to go through that again.
I used the HiTack gasket sealer from NAPA and fastened the gasket to the pan. Hi Tack is sticky stuff and will dry almost hard. I held the gasket to the pan with carriage bolts temporarily because I let it dry several hours. On the curved parts in the front and back, clothes pins work fine. I cleaned all the former sealant off the block and hit it with some Brake Cleaner to cut the oil residue. I used small amounts of high temp silicone (black) on the corners and the curved parts front and back. I bought 2 double-ended threaded studs to use a temporary guides for putting the oil pan in place. It is important not to over tighten the bolts holding the oil pan on or you will distort the cork gasket.
People on the board encourage the use of OEM gaskets. I found the one from Cruiser Outfitters to be almost the same as the OEM and the corners required less trimming with a razor blade.
Good luck!
couple things.

So...my experience is with the 2F also, but I they're not tooo different. for my 2F the IIRC, the FSM called for putting a small bead at the corners. I used black high temp RTF stuff and not much of it.

the bottle jack trick and 2x4 is how I had to get mine off...worked fine, just be gentle with the oil pan, they are easy to bend out of shape, thus resulting in a likelyhood of leaking.

Here's a tip if you're doing it solo...get a handfull of extra long 12MM bolts, put the gasket on the pan and start threading the long bolts in. once you get it held up there, you can more easily and slowly pull it into place with the shorter ones, then replace those long ones with the 'normal' size...those u-sections can be kinda of a pain if you're solo and trying to hold the pan up, thread a bolt and keep everything lined up while on your back dropping wrenches and bolts on your face. ;)

I like to use a combination of permatex and thread ...yes i said thread ...thread the gaskets to the pan ....helps it hold when you are cussing lifting that heavy ass pan up:D

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