Oil pan Gasket on the 3fe (1 Viewer)

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Roastchestnuts

TLCA #28675 Salt wagon Fj40
Joined
Oct 15, 2019
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1,585
Location
Ocracoke island North Carolina
I am doing all the preventive maintenance on the old fj80 land cruiser. I am curious of how difficult replacing the oil pan gasket is. I have never replaced one before but I believe mine is leaking. I did the valve cover gasket when I adjusted the valve lash, and I did the pushrod cover gasket. so the oil pan gasket is next. it is leaking just enough to get the area under the truck oily like the sway bar and the front of the transmission. its slow enough where I never see a leak spot when I park. if its not the oil pain gasket its the rear main seal.
 
What is sometimes diagnosed as a rear main seal leak is often the rear arch of the oil pan gasket. It is difficult to get it to seal properly unless you spend the time and effort to clean it well.
The OEM cork gasket (12151-61011) is very good at its job and inexpensive.

There are a number of tidbits that make installation a bit easier, like the use of 8mm hub studs to thread into the block to help keep it in place. There are also some plastic thingies that folks have used.

If a previous owner over-tightened the 22 bolts, it's possible that the lip of the pan is deformed slightly. You can tap the holes back to flat with a small ballpeen hammer and a block of wood.

There is a torque spec in the FSM for the bolts, but I just looked for a slight deformation of the cork gasket as I went round and round and round on the pan with a 1/4" socket handle. I think I made 5 or 6 passes.

All of this information is useless if you don't spend the time and clean the block mating surface thoroughly, especially the front and rear arches.
 
What is sometimes diagnosed as a rear main seal leak is often the rear arch of the oil pan gasket. It is difficult to get it to seal properly unless you spend the time and effort to clean it well.
The OEM cork gasket (12151-61011) is very good at its job and inexpensive.

There are a number of tidbits that make installation a bit easier, like the use of 8mm hub studs to thread into the block to help keep it in place. There are also some plastic thingies that folks have used.

If a previous owner over-tightened the 22 bolts, it's possible that the lip of the pan is deformed slightly. You can tap the holes back to flat with a small ballpeen hammer and a block of wood.

There is a torque spec in the FSM for the bolts, but I just looked for a slight deformation of the cork gasket as I went round and round and round on the pan with a 1/4" socket handle. I think I made 5 or 6 passes.

All of this information is useless if you don't spend the time and clean the block mating surface thoroughly, especially the front and rear arches.

Good to know that it is a cheep gasket. thanks! After just looking at it the rear arch of the pan does look the oiliest. I have had my suspicions that the leak is the oil pan gasket. I hate it when people booger up gaskets the wrong way. when I first got the fj80 I noticed an oil leak at the back of the valve cover and I thought that it was strange so when I was preparing to do the valve lash adjustment, I bought a valve cover gasket. long story short when I pulled the valve cover the back of the gasket was broken and the po had used blue rtv in the back portion instead of just buying a new gasket.... hate crap like that.
 
I am doing all the preventive maintenance on the old fj80 land cruiser. I am curious of how difficult replacing the oil pan gasket is. I have never replaced one before but I believe mine is leaking. I did the valve cover gasket when I adjusted the valve lash, and I did the pushrod cover gasket. so the oil pan gasket is next. it is leaking just enough to get the area under the truck oily like the sway bar and the front of the transmission. its slow enough where I never see a leak spot when I park. if its not the oil pain gasket its the rear main seal.
I have a question about the 3fe pushrod cover gasket replacement, I read in the only thread that I could find that it was necessary to remove the power steering and A/C brackets in order to remove the pushrod cover, did you have to do that? I'm looking at mine and it looks like i can maneuver the cover out without removing those parts but I want to get a second opinion before I try. Thanks in advance
 
I have a question about the 3fe pushrod cover gasket replacement, I read in the only thread that I could find that it was necessary to remove the power steering and A/C brackets in order to remove the pushrod cover, did you have to do that? I'm looking at mine and it looks like i can maneuver the cover out without removing those parts but I want to get a second opinion before I try. Thanks in advance
That doesn't sound right to me. IIRC, you have to remove the distributor and intake plenum, but not much else.
But it's been a while since I did this.
 
I did mine two years ago and found it pretty easy.

I used a scissor jack against the frame and the oil pan to knock it loose. A lot of people use bottle Jack's but none of my bottle Jack's would work in a sideways position.

Once it was off I used a Dremel to clean it all up.

I used small zip ties to keep the gasket attached to the engine and line up the holes. Then attached the pan and cut the zip ties as I went and tightened everything.
 
Try simply tightening the oil pan bolts before you remove it and replace the gasket. They ALL loosen and leak over the years. More often than not tightening the bolts cures the leak.


Mark...
 
That doesn't sound right to me. IIRC, you have to remove the distributor and intake plenum, but not much else.
But it's been a while since I did this.
I was aware of the intake and distributor, hopefully it doesnt require all the rest, not looking forward to doing it if thats the case
 
I did my side cover gasket last month. I tried doing it with removing as little other parts as possible. I had to unbolt the AC condenser and power steering pump to get it. AC/Power steering bracket is hiding two bolts to cover. Also took off distributor and oil filter (just didnt have enough room to maneuver it out). I suspended the AC condenser and pump with bungee cords.

Currently replacing my oil pan gasket. Taking my time to make sure the pan flange and engine mating surfaces (including arches) are spotless.
 
I did my side cover gasket last month. I tried doing it with removing as little other parts as possible. I had to unbolt the AC condenser and power steering pump to get it. AC/Power steering bracket is hiding two bolts to cover. Also took off distributor and oil filter (just didnt have enough room to maneuver it out). I suspended the AC condenser and pump with bungee cords.

Currently replacing my oil pan gasket. Taking my time to make sure the pan flange and engine mating surfaces (including arches) are spotless.
Thanks for the response, i noticed the 2 bolts youre talking about, pretty sure i can remove those bolts. Im wondering if the cover will come out without removing PS and AC brackets...i imagine it will be a little difficult but possible?
 
Thanks for the response, i noticed the 2 bolts youre talking about, pretty sure i can remove those bolts. Im wondering if the cover will come out without removing PS and AC brackets...i imagine it will be a little difficult but possible?


Curious how this went
 
Mine was leaking fairly bad when i got my 91, i have since replaced valve cover gasket, switched to Rotella T3 oil and tighten up the oil pan bolts and never had a drop on my driveway again...240k miles now
 
Mine was leaking fairly bad when i got my 91, i have since replaced valve cover gasket, switched to Rotella T3 oil and tighten up the oil pan bolts and never had a drop on my driveway again...240k miles now
Did you ever do the pushrod cover gasket? I was wondering if you were able to skip removing the ps pump ac compressor and their bracket
 
Did you ever do the pushrod cover gasket? I was wondering if you were able to skip removing the ps pump ac compressor and their bracket
I was planning on doing mine this winter. I ended up replacing the oil pan gasket last winter and it was one of the worst jobs but it is still holding. It is also leaking a lot less so it thankfully was not the rear main leaking. however the pushrod cover is still leaking a little so I am going to have to do it again. (I think my cork gasket ripped when I was replacing it.) Ill post pictures when I do it. Ill plan on posting pictures when I do it. I am going to try and rebuild the power steering pump at the same time.
 

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