oil pan gasket install

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Hi,

Just bought an 88FJ62 and have been slowly doing the basics. Changing fluids, plugs etc. This W/E I'm doing the oil pan gasket. I have a new 1 piece gasket, but have seen mixed advice as to whether to use a sealant like RVT with the gasket or just do it dry.

What do you experts out there recommend.

Also what are the torque specs in pounds per foot AND is there anything else I should check or do with the oil pan off.

thanks,
lex

88 FJ62 193 K stock
 

Fourrunner

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I used a sealant that Toyota sells, called FIPG (fix in place gasket) I think is what it was called. Put on the corners as recommended. I think if you do a search on here you will find some good info. Torque is really low. My manual says 53-104 in-lbs (4.4-8.7 ft-lbs). Be really careful not to overtoque the bolts as it will cause the pan to distort and leak badly. Did mine a while back and it is still dry after about 2 years.
 

D'Animal

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I used a sealant that Toyota sells, called FIPG (fix in place gasket) I think is what it was called. Put on the corners as recommended. I think if you do a search on here you will find some good info. Torque is really low. My manual says 53-104 in-lbs (4.4-8.7 ft-lbs). Be really careful not to overtoque the bolts as it will cause the pan to distort and leak badly. Did mine a while back and it is still dry after about 2 years.


Fourrunner is correct. My book says 7.9 ft-lbs. Don't over torque it.

In a few weeks after it has gotten hot a few times and absorbed some oil then check and retorque it to 7.9 ft-lbs.
 

Cruiserdrew

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I'll give a dissenting opinion. I use a thin coatof gray permatex on the entire gasket and a bit extra in the corners like the manual says. The real advantage, is that you use the permatex to make the gasket sticky, which makes it much easier to fit into place on the block. Then you simply install the pan and you are done. Both of my 2Fs are done this way, and neither one leaks. YMMV
 
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They say glue the gasket on the block but I always glue my gaskets on the removable part, like the pan or valve cover. It can save a lot of grief if you ever have to remove the part later. Scraping gasket material off a block can really be a nightmare & I've had no problems, but both surfaces must be perfectly clean. The corner sealer can be placed on the block with no problems, since it is easy off.
 

D'Animal

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Anybody know the proper 2x4 & bottle jack procedure offhand?

Take all the bolts out of your pan. use your factory jack and place it between the third member the the oil pan skide plate. Apply pressure but not enough that you do not dent the pan. Go in the house and when you come out tommorrow moring your pan should be laying on the floor. Us a 2x4 to get the proper angle only if you need to.


Don't forget to drain the oil first.
 

Spook50

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I used a sealant that Toyota sells, called FIPG (fix in place gasket) I think is what it was called. Put on the corners as recommended. I think if you do a search on here you will find some good info. Torque is really low. My manual says 53-104 in-lbs (4.4-8.7 ft-lbs). Be really careful not to overtoque the bolts as it will cause the pan to distort and leak badly. Did mine a while back and it is still dry after about 2 years.

X2. I only used FIPG on the corners and left the rest of the gasket dry when I did mine. Make sure the sealing surfaces on the pan and on the block are CLEAN when you do it! Also, given the proximity of the front axle to the crankshaft with a stock suspension, getting the oil pan out of there and back in is (to put it bluntly) a big pain in the dick. It can be done, but be prepared to have to jockey it around quite a bit to do so.
 
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2x4 procedure and another tip

I had to coerce my pan to come off. I put the 2x4 on the pan side of things the long way (IIRC) to disperse the force so as not to distort the pan itself. I gently put some pressure on it in one position, then moved a little. You should be able to hear things starting to release or get separated. Then...I repeated - it eventually popped off. Be gentle and patient - don't forget, the oil pickup thingie is in there, and you have to manuever the pan out.

Also, when I put the pan on I was solo. definitely a challenge for a know-nothing like me. What helped was to get a few longer bolts to get the pan started. That way, I could line it up without gunking up things with the corners of goo I put on there. So, basically, I put in like 4 longer bolts, to get it started so it would hang there. That made it much easier to align it and tighten it down with the correct bolts. when things got snug, I just replaced with the correct length bolt.

You may find keeping that 'hoop' all lined up is tougher than you think...the long bolt method should help.

still leak free 2 years later.

HTH
 
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thanks

Thanks everyone for the help. I got the pan off pretty easily, the gasket was a PITA and the caked,scorched, jurassic mud on the exterior of the pan took all afternoon to clean off. Oh well.

Tomorrow I'll re-assemble.

Couldn't have done it w/o the forum!!
 

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