I have pulled my plug before and had someone else quickly put their thumb on the hole so I could put on a new fiber washer. Didn't loose too much oil.
oil pan drain plug still drips (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jbrnwa
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that's what i figured. problem is i don't have a clean pan. seems like i've usually got more oil sitting in drain pan's in my garage than the exxon valdeze. guess i'll just buy another pan when i get my washers. i hate loading it up to take to recycle.
If you have a funnel you can try to put it back in the jugs if they were the gallon size instead of the quart size. You can use the quart size, but it will just be tedious.
good call gulfshores. i bought the 3.5 quart jugs. guess i should have thought that through a little more thoroughly before posting. the only reason i drained the oil was that i'm hoping i'll have less difficulty starting on cold mornings. i added the Lucas oil additive and since i can't get her to start when the temp drops below 40. don't know if that's the issue but it's the only thing that has changed since last winter. i've literally gone out in the morning and been unable to start the rig then as the day warms i can go out and fire her up on the first turn of the key.
does any one know the toyota parts number for the gasket and plug?
Oil Plug
Here are the part numbers.
Oil Pan Plug: 12101A
Oil Plug Gasket: 12101B
Here are the part numbers.
Oil Pan Plug: 12101A
Oil Plug Gasket: 12101B
i just bought an aftermarket plug and washer from orielly and used plumbing tape on the threads. must have lost about a quart on the floor fumbling around trying to get the old plug out and poke my finger in the hole. probly looked like a monkey F'ing a football. so far it seems to be holding tight w/ no leaks.
Mine always leaked when I used the fiber gaskets. I use the metal one that you also use on the diffs. I've only found them at Toyota. Some people have used two of the aluminum ones that go to the transfer case too.
quote:
[[Check the threads on the pan side, be sure there is no obvious gouges. That's the problem I had, the threads on the pan (female side) had a big gouge down right through them, silicone on the threads fixed it, but a new insert, or a new pan would be the best fix.]]
I'm not sure about the gas engines in FJs but the B and 3B diesels have a "drain aid" relief cut in the internal pan thread boss (some are a square groove across the inside face and down the threads, and some are a square hole between the boss and the pan) this allows virtually all oil to be extracted, as well as flushing out the pan bottom sludge. The sealing face is meant to be beween the oil pan plugs flange and the outside of the oil pan, thus the wide fiber washer.
Almost all that I have seen have been gunked up with silicone, or bits of teflon tape, but if the two surfaces are clean and straight, and the fiber washer is good, there is no problem getting a seal.
[[Check the threads on the pan side, be sure there is no obvious gouges. That's the problem I had, the threads on the pan (female side) had a big gouge down right through them, silicone on the threads fixed it, but a new insert, or a new pan would be the best fix.]]
I'm not sure about the gas engines in FJs but the B and 3B diesels have a "drain aid" relief cut in the internal pan thread boss (some are a square groove across the inside face and down the threads, and some are a square hole between the boss and the pan) this allows virtually all oil to be extracted, as well as flushing out the pan bottom sludge. The sealing face is meant to be beween the oil pan plugs flange and the outside of the oil pan, thus the wide fiber washer.
Almost all that I have seen have been gunked up with silicone, or bits of teflon tape, but if the two surfaces are clean and straight, and the fiber washer is good, there is no problem getting a seal.
a bit of a hijack - anyone use the magnetic drain plug? If it fits well, i think it would be good to see if metal is in the oil...
Anyone know where to find them?
Hope your oil leak is fixed!
rob
Anyone know where to find them?
Hope your oil leak is fixed!
rob
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Resurrecting an old thread here...
Anyone ever determine what the appropriate PN for the drain plug gasket was? I am going to have to pull my plug again (did the same last oil change but was able to get the drip to stop with some RTV) after just changing the oil to see what else I can do. Last couple days I have probably lost 1/2qt of oil when it sits and that with with me redoing the RTV.
Gasket I am using is a hard, dark colored (black) plasticy type I got from NAPA and no one locally has a "synthetic" or "fiber" type that I can find.
Anyone ever determine what the appropriate PN for the drain plug gasket was? I am going to have to pull my plug again (did the same last oil change but was able to get the drip to stop with some RTV) after just changing the oil to see what else I can do. Last couple days I have probably lost 1/2qt of oil when it sits and that with with me redoing the RTV.
Gasket I am using is a hard, dark colored (black) plasticy type I got from NAPA and no one locally has a "synthetic" or "fiber" type that I can find.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Go to an Ace Hardware. I’d bet they have something that would work. Quite sure any Toyota gasket will be rubber or plastic anyhow.
That part # is for the new plug. They threw the gaskets in the same bag. They are aluminum with something black on both sides to help seal I guess. I'll have to look for the paperwork to get the gasket #.
90430-12019
That's for a 3fe.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
90430-18023 is what I found for gasket alone but seems that there could be multiples when I first was searching. And don’t have any ACE Hardware near me either. Not many left on the west coast.
My HELP! kit from the auto part store has a copper washer that will work if you're in a bind. 12mm ID about 21mm OD. For the future get online and buy a big set of copper washers like this one to have on hand. Great to keep the job
...moving. What the hell.
