well there then
you obeyed the owners manual 10w40 minimum requirements , and had no issues right ?
it's good to know someone cares ..........
Oil Leaks - 3FE
- Thread starter alphaeighteen
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well there then
you obeyed the owners manual 10w40 minimum requirements , and had no issues right ?
it's good to know someone cares ..........
well there then
you obeyed the owners manual 10w40 minimum requirements , and had no issues right ?
it's good to know someone cares ..........
Yes I did but only because it was the cheapest. That being said I wouldn't have hesitated to use the Rotella 5w-30 synthetic oil in that rig.
Like @jonheld said. The 3fe will be happy with any kind of oil.
Hell, I was doing a coolant change and oil change at the same time. I had a yellow Preston jug of coolant and a yellow penzoil jug of oil. My drunk a** poured the anti freeze into the engine instead of the oil. I started the truck to let it warm up, it probably ran with coolant instead of oil for 1 or 2 minutes before I registered what happened.
Drained the coolant from the engine and re-filled it with oil. Got another 70,000 miles on the engine before the rig was totalled.
If the 3fe can run on anti freeze instead of oil I really don't think it matters what viscosity is used lol.
i saw your u-tube video you made and posted a while back ,,,,,,,,,,,
i was not impressed ........
I came into owning a 55 gallon drum of Rotella Straight 30 on the cheap, so that's what the cruiser is getting for the next 20 years by my math 
i saw your u-tube video you made and posted a while back ,,,,,,,,,,,
i was not impressed ........
Yeah, that was not me lol. In all fairness I actually drained and refilled the oil 3 times that day because I wanted to get all the coolant out.
That's not at all how oil works.
The first number tells you how it behaves at below-freezing temperatures. The second number tells you how thin it gets at high operating temperatures. So, a 5W-30 it gets no thicker than a 5 weight would below freezing, and no thinner than a 30 weight would at high temperature.
There is no reason not to go with a lower first number. It just means oil will circulate faster at startup, which is a good thing. What's important is not to go with too low a second number. 0W-40 works great. 5W-20 wouldn't.
@alphaeighteen you might consider Mobil 1 10W-40 High Milage. It's got more seal conditioners. It stopped the light smoke I would get at startup due to old valve stem seals.
For the transmission inspection plate, I think they're talking about the black plastic cover on the back side of the bell housing.
forum.ih8mud.com
For the transmission inspection plate, I think they're talking about the black plastic cover on the back side of the bell housing.
Bellhousing Inspection cover?
I'm pretty sure there's supposed to be a rubber/plastic cover in this hole, right? Since I'm new to 80's, what to make of the discoloration inside? No idea how long it's been open.
forum.ih8mud.com
Had to go out and climb under my rig to take a picture,
this cover is easily removed, use a flashlight and inspection mirror, or get fancy and use a bore scope, check for oil residue on the flex plate.
Oil often pools on those bolts, being the lowest connected part to the oil pan, so people misdiagnose as a bad rear main seal.
IME, 3fe rear main seals are not a common or routine failure.
Oil often pools on those bolts, being the lowest connected part to the oil pan, so people misdiagnose as a bad rear main seal.
IME, 3fe rear main seals are not a common or routine failure.
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- #29
good to know - i'll try that on the next oil change.@alphaeighteen you might consider Mobil 1 10W-40 High Milage. It's got more seal conditioners. It stopped the light smoke I would get at startup due to old valve stem seals.
For the transmission inspection plate, I think they're talking about the black plastic cover on the back side of the bell housing.
Bellhousing Inspection cover?
I'm pretty sure there's supposed to be a rubber/plastic cover in this hole, right? Since I'm new to 80's, what to make of the discoloration inside? No idea how long it's been open.
Yup, that's exactly where mine is leaking and before I had tightened the oil pan there was oil all over those two bolts. I'll try to take it off this weekend and have a look.
And I respectfully suggest you read up on viscosity. A 30 weight is a 30 weight regardless of the first number in a multi-grade motor oil. 5W30 will have the same lubrication qualities of a 10w30. It just flows better at lower temps.per the factory owners manual and the FSM ........
with all due respect , you have no idea what your talking about & the bad advice you are saying and you dead nutz wrong 100%
perhaps study and review my fact based by the book tutorial video # 1
i cover the entire recommended viscosity topic in great oem paper print media facts and rocket science specifications 🚀
oem print media don't lie my friend
But hey, I guess my old 91 with over 300K on the old 3FE is really suffering
.It's a tractor motor. It doesn't care what you put in it.
Good luck with your project. I was always dripping like the Exxon Valdez and my biggest culprits were oil pump seal and valve cover gasket. I had blowback and pooling on the oil pan too. My old shop that was a good trusted LC house SWORE by Valvoline Max Life High Mileage with the seal conditioners and I think it helped too. Tight as a drum now with zero leaks.
Yup. Me too.
The
Oemm gasket is is one piece
Yep, you'll probably have to replace them all though as you usually destroy them trying to get them out, plus, make sure you can unscrew your engine mount bolts before trying to remove your oil pan. You'll need to raise your engine up to get the pan back in, and it'll still be extremely difficult. (4 pieces - 2side pieces, and two arches.)
