Oil Leaking in Parking Brake (after replacing Speedometer Gear)

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@65swb45 @orangefj45

Is there any explanation for oil leaking from the rear brake other than from the rear seal of the Transfer? I recently rebuilt/replaced the Speedometer gear and o-rings, which is the only other thing that I can think of that might explain why I suddenly have oil dripping out the Parking Brake. The only other explanation seems to me is that the rear transfer seals are leaking, but that can't be because Mark just rebuilt the TC and put double seals in..... correct Mark?



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You just need the paper gasket 494122-auto store

What is the "paper gasket"? Do you mean the gasket for behind the Backing Plate?
Is 494122 the Oil Seal PN?
Is the link you sent you refer to the Hex bolts as replacements.... what is the advantage of them? I didn't notice any problem with the Toyota bolts.
Do you know of any PN for a gasket behind the Backing plate? Is that gasket normally sealed with gasket sealer?
 
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What is the "paper gasket"? Do you mean the gasket for behind the Backing Plate?
Is 494122 the Oil Seal PN?
Is the link you sent you refer to the Hex bolts as replacements.... what is the advantage of them? I didn't notice any problem with the Toyota bolts.
Do you know of any PN for a gasket behind the Backing plate? Is that gasket normally sealed with gasket seal

That is the seal, not the paper gasket. Both the paper gasket and seal are readily available any your local parts store.

As stated previously, replacing the bolts with allen will future maintenance easier and the link is for how the "readi-sleeve" sits when installed on the drum shaft. The bolts are a smaller profile so you don't have to fight the upper right one trying to get a socket on it since the p-brake is in the way, hence "ease of maintenance". The paper gasket goes behind the speedo housing not the backing plate.
 
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I pulled the backplate and the speedo housing that holds the seals. Visual inspection of the seals doesn’t indicate any issue with the seals themselves (besides they are only six months old with less than 20 miles on them). What I did notice is they don’t look to be installed flush (level) in the housing. Correct me if I’m wrong, but if the seals are at a slight angle, wouldn’t that create a potential leak? Below are some photos where you can see a straight edge at the front of the housing. On the right side the metal edge of the seal is virtually flush with the housing. On the left side the seal is recessed by 1/16 or 3/32.

Could this be causing the leaking?
 
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I pulled the backplate and the speedo housing that holds the seals. Visual inspection of the seals doesn’t indicate any issue with the seals themselves (besides they are only six months old with less than 20 miles on them). What I did notice is they don’t look to be installed flush (level) in the housing. Correct me if I’m wrong, but if the seals are at a slight angle, wouldn’t that create a potential leak? Below are some photos where you can see a straight edge at the front of the housing. On the right side the metal edge of the seal is virtually flush with the housing. On the left side the seal is recessed by 1/16 or 3/32.

Could this be causing the leaking?
Rod, yes that is a potential for a leak, but if nothing was detected-tap them flush/flat, I can only assume it was making past the splines on the shaft. As (@orangefj45) Georg suggested, put FIPG on the front of the hub spline shaft and the splines before mating them up and bolting it back together. Mark is a pretty standup guy, a little hard to get a hold of though. He has been around a long time.

BTW, Is it double sealed? Did it have FIPG on the splines previously?
 
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Rod, yes that is a potential for a leak, but if nothing was detected-tap them flush/flat, I can only assume it was making past the splines on the shaft. As (@orangefj45) Georg suggested, put FIPG on the front of the hub spline shaft and the splines before mating them up and bolting it back together. Mark is a pretty standup guy, a little hard to get a hold of though. He has been around a long time.

BTW, Is it double sealed? Did it have FIPG on the splines previously?
I had put silicone behind the washer, at the end of the shaft after putting the drum on (per Mark’s directions) to stop oil from coming down the splines. That seemed to work. At the time I couldn’t pull the drum off (long story) so I couldn’t put silicone on the Hub or Drum splines.

I was still getting oil inside the brake which I thought indicated a seal leak versus a leak from the splines. It was my understanding that leaks from the splines don’t typically show up inside the brake. Do I have that wrong? I really don’t want to replace seals if the oil is just leaking from the splines. Georg believes it is a seal leak.
 
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I had put silicone behind the washer, at the end of the shaft after putting the drum on (per Mark’s directions) to stop oil from coming down the splines. That seemed to work. At the time I couldn’t pull the drum off (long story) so I couldn’t put silicone on the Hub or Drum splines.

I was still getting oil inside the brake which I thought indicated a seal leak versus a leak from the splines. It was my understanding that leaks from the splines don’t typically show up inside the brake. Do I have that wrong? I really don’t want to replace seals if the oil is just leaking from the splines. Georg believes it is a seal leak.
I just did this with no visible wear on the drum shaft after a recent transfer case rebuild. I put sealant as others have recommended on the splines, not just under the washer, including new seals, and I the leaks have stopped. And I stopped running synthetics and went back to dino oil which has less of a tendency to seep.

Speedo housing leaks ........ Valley Hybrids dual seal housings. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/speedo-housing-leaks-valley-hybrids-dual-seal-housings.1206896/
 
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@firemanj92

Can you tell me what the threaded piece in this picture is for? Does it just sit in the Speedo Hib and turn the speedometer? Do I need to do anything with it when reassembling the Hub/Speedo housing.

Also, if I understand what I was told, I don’t need to worry about the preload on the bearing as long as I’m using the same shims and same housing, correct?

Thanks! I know you just went through this, so I figure these are things you have already addressed.
 
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If you are referring to #31, it is a speedometer drive gear-spins the speedo gear-it just stays put on assembly.

Preload, only if needed, in other words, if you had one, use it. If you didn't have one then you probably don't need shim(s).

Also be mindful of the position of the outer speedo housing bolts. There are short ones and longer ones. The shortest goes near the speedo cable

pic courtesy of @orangefj45

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/736675ee-e9e4-4e6a-a53c-03d0070f58a6-jpeg.2296480/

Land Cruiser Transfercase Shafts, Gears, Gaskets & Seals 1963-1/90 - https://www.sor.com/cat070.sor#070A1
 

hobbes

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Coolerman has great instructions with torque values. His instructions are always a great place to start depending on your year of vehicle.


Also post 9 has a value on the FAQ page.


HTHs
 
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Coolerman has great instructions with torque values. His instructions are always a great place to start depending on your year of vehicle.


Also post 9 has a valve on the FAQ page.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/misc-torque-specs-use-at-your-own- HTH
Why would the Speedo Housing/ Bea...22 lbs? [ATTACH type="full"]3053970[/ATTACH]
 

hobbes

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I’m reading Coolerman’s step 13 as 7 to 11 ft lbs.

The FAQ post 9 has “Speedometer Housing to Transfer Case 11 f/lb”.

But maybe you are asking for something else...
 
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I understand that is what they both have posted. It just seems like a low torque value. The FSM I have doesn’t specify one for the hub, so I’m curious where they got that value from. I’ll contact Coolerman and ask.
 

hobbes

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FSM might be using different words than you. (Or I might be out to lunch.)
EF4BF2E0-C787-4DB4-B593-722815D58076.jpeg
 
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FSM might be using different words than you. (Or I might be out to lunch.)
View attachment 3054412

Thanks! At least this tells me where the value came from. The only issue I see is that this is for a 3-Spd Transmission and TC whereas I have a 4-Spd TC (with a SM420 4-Spd). The FSM I have for my year doesn’t have this detail/Spec value.
 

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