Oil leak. Whats involved? (2 Viewers)

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Are there gaskets that you can buy for these repairs or do you have to use silicone? I've used silicone to hold a gasket in place while seating a pan or component back in place, but typically don't use just silicone unless absolutely necessary.
 
Toyota says silicone only.

UPDATE: HELP WANTED, Apply within ;)

Ok I just checked the oil level and it is FULL!
What's the problem then ? (you say)

Well, my oil lamp came on this morning for about 5 seconds while driving.
It came on in a stretch of road that it used to come on and warn me of the same impending danger when there actually was a problem and I'd top it up.. Of the 20km trip to work, it comes on in exactly the same point in the trip, when it doesn't seem to need any more oil. whats up with that!? And why?

Could there be something messing with my ECU on that stretch or possibly the slope angle of the road? Thing is: it does not slope.. it's just straight.
 
crooozer: Are you checking the level with the engine fully warmed up, then shutting it down and checking the level after waiting a minute or two? If you check your oil level cold first thing in the morning and it shows full, it actually could be a +/- a quart low. What apparently happens is that the longer the engine is off the more the oil can drain back to the pan from the oil filter etc, which can give you a false "full" reading on the dipstick.
 
Thanks Kernal.

I'm checking it a good 1/2 hr after the engine has been shut off.
Because, when I check it a couple of mins after it's shut off it shows pretty well on the E mark. Last oil change I went to the exact same mark I saw it at cold this morning, so it has not been leaking that I know of, maybe I need to add PAST the F mark like you possibly suggest when servicing? I don't feel confident about doing this though. Might oil up the spark plugs and have too higher pressure?
 
By on the E mark do you mean the bottom of the hash marks on the dipstick? The owners manual and the FSM state the oil level should be checked with the engine at operating temperature. IIRC they don't really say exactly how long to wait after you shut off the engine but from what I've read and my own experience, a few minutes at most but not thirty. You don't have to go past full if the engine is at operating temp, you don't even have to go exactly to the full mark. All the engine oil sensor is telling you is that you are about 1 to 1/1/2 quarts low, so add 1/2 quart and check it again, but don't go over full in a warm engine that has recently been shut off.
 
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Cool mate, got it. Yes, E meaning the bottom of the hashed section.

I just checked again and it's really hard to get a good reading because my 97 has a convex dipstick tube and there are spots that are not coated with oil and bits that are up to a certain extent. Will give her a quart tonight. Chances are that it has not lost any oil, but has just been in a position to sound the oil alarm/light because it's at F when cold, just as it was when I last serviced her.
 
Also I just noticed something else strange within my engine bay.
I believe it is the engine ECU test bracket that is attached to the firewall on the passenger side, pretty well the closest thing to that edge of the bay, couldn't really fir anything else in. It's just a black open bracket wit the top 'missing' that has rows of electrical pins. There is a single piece of wire that has been placed in between to terminals shorting these out. Could this simply be the ECU test position set to go?
 
That is the diagnostic port or DTC, it should have a cover over it. Sounds like someone was working on it and forgot the jumper?? Don't know of a reason why someone would leave it there on purpose??
 
croozer: did you ever replace the oil pan gasket? Did it resolve your leak? Mine looks similar and I'll be tackling it soon.
 
No mate not yet but should be doing so within the next few weeks. It looks to be leaking slightly, not losing much at all so I'm not worried. Will let you know once it's done.
 
UPDATE** Ok wise guys, it seems that I sherlock have just found the culprit.

Theres a great big slip yoke that rotates around flinging oil right in firing line with my supposed oil leak.
That explains why it is only on one side, and in one section. s*** I'm getting good at this.
 
Are you referring to a front pinion seal leak?
 

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