I third it. I run the Mobile 1 High Mileage in my 80 (217K) and my recently sold 98 4Runner (250K) with no leaks and no cunsumption.
My 99 100 Series has 107K on it and it's first oild change isn't due for another couple thousand miles...
Oil for High Mileage (200,000+) Cruisers? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter burp43
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I third it. I run the Mobile 1 High Mileage in my 80 (217K) and my recently sold 98 4Runner (250K) with no leaks and no cunsumption.
My 99 100 Series has 107K on it and it's first oild change isn't due for another couple thousand miles...
Yeah, I definitely like the M1 HM, but since M1 is well known for being on the thinner side of conventional oil weight measurements, I was just contemplating whether a 192K mile 2UZ might respond well to a slightly "heavier" oil. Main thing is, I can try the 5W-30, and if it does well, I can continue to use it. If not, I can make the change to 10W-30.
Interesting bit of information: Toyota published "acceptable" oil consumption for a 1FZ-FE in an 80 is 1 quart per 1,000 miles! (I know, I found that hard to fathom, as well). That being said, I wanted to slow that consumption on my (coincidentally) 192K mile 80, so I switched from regular M1 10W-30 to M1 10W-30 HM......no perceptible change. Then I changed to m1 10W-40 HM with only a slight consumption difference. Most recently, I changed to M1 15W-50 to see if that makes a difference. I'm just now reaching the 1,000 mile mark, so time will tell.
In the meantime, I'll give the 5W-30 HM a try in the 100 and see what happens. I'll report back when I do. Thanks.
Remember, just because an oil is on the thinner side of accepatable, it's still just that - acceptable. The 100 has a well built, high tolerance motor designed to go 300-400k before needing to be rebuilt. Using a high quality oil like M1 in the recommended weight is fine. There is no real risk or benefit either way with these motors as long as you stay within Mr. T's recommended range (ie, 30 weight).
I guess the real question is, what do you mean when you ask if the motor would "respond well"? Are you experiencing an issue that you are trying to resolve? My motor, at juuuust shy of 140k, runs great on 0w-30 M1. YMMV as always, but again I see no reason to go with a higher weight as long as the engine is getting the protection that is required.
I guess the real question is, what do you mean when you ask if the motor would "respond well"? Are you experiencing an issue that you are trying to resolve? My motor, at juuuust shy of 140k, runs great on 0w-30 M1. YMMV as always, but again I see no reason to go with a higher weight as long as the engine is getting the protection that is required.
I doubt you have oil consumption with the 2UZ based on some folks getting up to 300-400k miles on this engine and they still are not reporting oil consumption. If you do consume oil, I think that's a entirely different conversation as something could be really wrong.
The 1FZ motor design has valve guides (from my understanding) that lead to the oil consumption in the Inline-6. A heavy 40wt or 50wt oil is ideal in the 1FZ, as it chews through 30wts easily. My belief is Mr. T only spec'd a 30wt for the US 80 series 1FZ to meet fuel economy requirements. The rest of the world got a spec for a higer weight oil. This has been discussed a lot on the 80 board.
I started another thread on this board https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/504374-global-oil-spec-2uz-fe.html to kind of follow that same rationale (hoping the Aussie members might chime in), but no releavant feedback as of yet.
Paging Beno- as he is probably more tuned into global Toyota specs than I am.
At present, I am uncertain about oil consumption, as I haven't driven this new-to-me 100 even 1,000 miles yet. The only reason I originally questioned oil weights - see above - is because, after sitting for several days, the 2UZ has puffed some smoke at start up (and I've never seen a 2UZ do that). After driving it regularly for a week or so, I'm seeing less, if any, of that now.
M1 goes on sale at AutoZone tomorrow, so I plan to stock up and try the 5W-30 HM to see if it (a) leaks, and (b) stops the very minor start-up smoke. I'll respond when I come to a conclusion.
I've used M1 0W-40, Formula Shell Dino 5W-30, Amsoil OE 5W-30 and have now used Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30 for a few changes. All acceptable oils. The heavier weight did seem to increase the amount that the fan was running on hot summer days.
I've been using 5w-30 but a friend suggested using 15w-50 M1 on my 1999 LC with 180k on it. Any opinions people? Thank you
That strikes me as an unusual suggestion - any reason given?
(I'd go with factory recommendation.)
5w-30 M1 HM Synthetic with Toyota OEM filter every 6k. At 200k now and 0 oil consumption.
He said it works better with his 4 different American V8 cars, and that since my LC has a 4.7 engine to try it. I searched and found out that this type of viscosity are being used also in big bikes like Ducati, Harleys... and they liked the outcome. Also, My friend said to get the one with the GOLD cap which I saw once before on Walmart (cheapest) and the regular gray color which you can find in most shelves. Difference??? both have the same written specification/literature on the back. Thank you for the quick reply and Happy Holidays my friend...
I measure what I put in and then, on the next oil change, measure what comes out. It's not entirely scientific. But, I also look where I park for any oil drips and look through my engine bay weekly for any oil leaks (typically from the valve gaskets).
If you really want to know the health of your engine, get a Blackstone Labs kit and, on your next oil change, use their kit to collect a sample and mail it off to them. They'll analyze the oil and provide a very accurate assessment of your situation.
For the record, I use Valvoline 5W-30 Synthetic MaxLife on my 296k LC.
Increasing viscosity like this can help motors with larger bearing clearances. I don't know the 2UZ clearances off hand, but I very much doubt they are on the larger side. Toyota and Honda motors tend to last so long because (among many other things) the rotating assembly bearing clearances are very precise. On a stock 2UZ I would never run oil that thick. Stick to 5-30 or even 0-30/0-40.
The heavy weight oils can help when you've got elevated power levels where you'll generate far more heat than the OEM engine design had in mind, an engine you know is likely to see extreme abuse, or one that is prone to bearing failure. The 2UZ doesn't fall into any of those categories so I'd stick with 5-30 or similar.
40 weight in the rest of the world. On the 'too thick' argument: it's a quadratic function, i.e. you need 4 times higher kinematic viscosity to get the oil film twice as thick. In ideal case, 5W-30 should serve you well over a million miles, like in that million mile Tundra with 2UZ that saw mostly improved roads. 10W-30 is more shear stable, 5W-30 is an 'all climate' oil. My 2002 LX still has the temperature / oil weight chart, while 2004 insists on the single solution of 5W-30. Few things create more passionate conversations than motor oil.
Added this final blow to CAFE and its cohorts:
Added this final blow to CAFE and its cohorts:
Last edited:
