Oil Filters

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Dianna,

For oil I'd suggest WIX, purolator, Mobil 1, or NAPA Gold (Which is in fact a WIX filter). Stay away from Fram and Deutch if at all possible.

For air the same. WIX and NAPA GOLD. K&N filters are super for great air flow but are poor at stopping dirt. To take good care of your rings not a good idea.

There are some good studies and tests available for reading online if you do a couple searches.

Hope this helps,
Rice
 

Poser

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[quote author=rusmannx link=board=1;threadid=9456;start=msg82670#msg82670 date=1072901157]
i like those fram with the grip stuff on it..... ok i'm a dork
[/quote]


You said it.... :-*
 
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[quote author=rusmannx link=board=1;threadid=9456;start=msg82670#msg82670 date=1072901157]
i like those fram with the grip stuff on it..... ok i'm a dork
[/quote]

Don't feel bad, I also use those and they are easier to deal with.
 

yooper

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Chant after me:

OEM....OEM....OEM....OEM....OEM....

15600-41010 is the part number of choice

OEM....OEM....OEM....OEM....OEM....

Fram oil filters are crap. Wix is OK. Napa is Wix.

OEM....OEM....OEM....OEM....OEM....
 

brian

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i see no reason why fram is crap ???. i ran a hilux to 350,XXX using them, and that was with 4500-5500mls on oil changes.
i use fram on everything i have.
i think that grippy stuff is dumb, but they do it to all their filters so....
part number for a cruiser is PH8A :flipoff2:
 
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[quote author=brian link=board=1;threadid=9456;start=msg82758#msg82758 date=1072907792]
i see no reason why fram is crap ???. i ran a hilux to 350,XXX using them, and that was with 4500-5500k on oil changes.
i use fram on everything i have.
i think that grippy stuff is dumb, but they do it to all their filters so....
part number for a cruiser is PH8A :flipoff2:
[/quote]

Same here, used them for years, if there's a legimate reason they suck so bad, what is it? I'll change if there is some research showing poor performance, but I've personally have never had an issue with them.
 

brian

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i'm not puting any faith in that at all.
he seems to have something agianst A/S.

and referring to an oilling diagram for a 2F, the vavle train would be the "cabbose" in the big picture.
i could(even might) be wrong but i don't think any drain back valve is going to prevent the oil from draining off the top end.

and being last in line, the motor would have to be running(or turning over for sometime) before there would enough pressure for the oil to make it to the valves. even more so on a motor that hasn't seen a rebuild in awhile(or ever).
so if you have one of those that fires right away, (mine fires with in... i don't know but it's quick..even when cold ) you're going to be running with no, to little pressure till the oil catchs up with everything. resulting in valve noise.
that's just my thought on things, some assembly may be required.
but too each his own.
 

brian

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yeah and one more thing.
the flow is from the pump to the filter and then the motor.
so in order for oil to drain backwards it would first have to drain backwards out of the oil pump.
so if the oil drains(by gravity!!) backwards from the pump(re: gear pump) how much oil would that pump be moving?? or more importantly how much pressure would that pump create??
 

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