Oil filter lines (1 Viewer)

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May 4, 2018
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Location
Cleveland, OH
Hey all, it's been a while since I've been on here but I have a new issue/question that I could use some advice on, so here it goes:

I have a 72 FJ40. There are two oil lines that come off the driver's side of the engine, run down and around the exhaust manifold and back up again to the oil filter. Obviously these are used to filter the oil to the engine, and one of them has a small hole burned into it from the heat coming off of the manifold. Both lines are rubber (which I believe is discontinued because the new lines I ordered are wrapped metal) that were wrapped in a heat proof material that has deteriorated, there by causing the hole. There doesn't seem to be any way to access the fittings attaching these lines to the engine block without removing the exhaust manifold from the side of the engine.

Before I do that I wanted ask if anyone has ever changed these lines before and had any advice. Taking the manifold off seems pretty simple and the bolts are in good condition and move easily, but that manifold has to be very heavy because the carb is attached to it as well. My idea was to take two steel bars and run them through the front leaf springs under the manifold and the starting point of the tail pipe to hold the whole unit in place while I change the oil lines. Not sure if that makes sense, but it looks like it will work. Again though, any better advice is much appreciated as this is a first for me!

Thanks much,

Matt
 
I had just replaced my Oil Regulator and lines. You can do it without taking the manifold off from the underneath. Removing the little pan that is bolted to the top of frame rail will help also-it's 2 x 10/12mm (it's where the hard brake lines pass through to the soft line). Or you can take the exhaust head pipe off the manifold it will be much easier-that's just 2 bolts or 3 at the flange and one clamp before the muffler.
 
I had just replaced my Oil Regulator and lines. You can do it without taking the manifold off from the underneath. Removing the little pan that is bolted to the top of frame rail will help also-it's 2 x 10/12mm (it's where the hard brake lines pass through to the soft line). Or you can take the exhaust head pipe off the manifold it will be much easier-that's just 2 bolts or 3 at the flange and one clamp before the muffler.
Thank you! I can't get access from underneath because of the winch shaft coming off the transmission to the factory winch. I haven't met a lot of people that have that winch on their 40's. The head pipe is a good call though, thanks again!
 
I got the same braided lines and fittings from SOR as well. So did you pull the exhaust manifold off to access the hose fittings on the engine? Thanks for the heads up on the regulator!
I was able to get at it from the bottom next to the steering box, reaching up. It was somewhat blind. Installing the new to me oil pressure regulator was actually easier and I preinstalled that line on the bench before sticking the assembly back in
 
I was able to get at it from the bottom next to the steering box, reaching up. It was somewhat blind. Installing the new to me oil pressure regulator was actually easier and I preinstalled that line on the bench before sticking the assembly back in
Did the same. I would imagine, pulling the exhaust manifold may lead down a rabbit hole. Installing is as stated. DON'T over tighten the fittings into the regulator as @ryanwk628 and I found it will split the regulator! Can you remove the winch shaft (before) the manifold? It seems the it's least evasive to do so. Those bolts sound easier than snapping an exhaust bolt or stud. Either way, presoak the bolts in penetrating oil.
 
Did the same. I would imagine, pulling the exhaust manifold may lead down a rabbit hole. Installing is as stated. DON'T over tighten the fittings into the regulator as @ryanwk628 and I found it will split the regulator! Can you remove the winch shaft (before) the manifold? It seems the it's least evasive to do so. Those bolts sound easier than snapping an exhaust bolt or stud. Either way, presoak the bing about the bolts in penetrating oil.
Thanks for the input. Even if I remove the winch shaft there is so little room to get tools up to the bolts, as the manifold is so tight against the block. I hear what your saying about the rabbit hole theory and I wish you guys could see what I'm looking at the way that I do! There are some mods on the engine that the previous owner(s) made that I believe have made this situation a bit more difficult to explain. I'm starting to wonder if the engine is a rebuild from an older 40 because the parts I ordered from SOR don't match. When I went back and looked again, the lines I needed were from from a late 60's engine. Anyway, either way I do it I very much appreciate the advice as it has already made me see the project in a whole different light, which helps tremendously.
 

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