Oil feed 1HZ for turbo

Ron R

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I think I've read almost everything related to turbo-install there is on this forum
One thing is not quite clear to me yet.....
The oil feed..
It looks as if everyone takes the feed from the oil pressure-sender location.
Looking at the engine it looks as if the position where the pressureswitch for the oilwarning light is located is much more convenient.
What is there to it that the pressure-sender location is used?
 
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Tapage

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If you search in my thread .. Marilu 2008 upgrades .. there is a pic that whow where is the pressure sender .. driver side ( for me LHD ) between the oil filter and firewall little lower ..
 

Ron R

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Hi Tapage,
Thanks for the picture.
Yes, that is the Pressure sender location for my 1HZ engine.
But it's pretty tight there and the oilpressure warningswitch is located at a more or less open space slightly above the oilfilterlocation and far more easily accessable.
So the question that came up was: why not use that location?
Is there some drawback to it I'm not aware off?
 

Tapage

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In my case I don't think it's really better the warning swith location and then at the oil press port it's the factory place of reading .. ? so I wanna keep the same place and same readings .. ( or at least the same factory accuracy ) anycase supose the oil press it's same around the oil gallerys .. ?
 

Ron R

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I think the pressure is the same in all lines, as long as you are in the main oil gallery.
The warning light pressure switch and the pressure sender are on the same gallery AFAIK.
 

iron_giant

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you can always drill and tap the block... :hmm:

Just noticed it was the drain that is tapped into the block. I'll have a look tomorrow as I am slowly approaching the same conundrum.
turbokit.jpg
 
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tlcruiserman

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The kits I use from Turbo-Glide, get oil for pressure sensor on LH side of block, then over the top and down to turbo, return is direct into oilpan. WORKS GREAT!!!

Cheers,

Michael
 

Ron R

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Iron_giant and tlcruiserman,

drilling and tapping the block would be great and no problem when it's out. However I must do with the engine in.
Have even been thinking about drilling and tapping into the block for the oil feed. That has to be possible, but I'm afraid of getting metal chips in the channels.
And yes, everyone uses the pressuresender location for the oil feed, buried somewhere deep down near the starter. But as you can see from the picture the pressure switch (left of the oil filter with the green connector) is far more easy to reach, so why not use that?
There must be a problem I don't know of, or am I the first one to come up with that idea?:D


Iron_giant, is this just a picture you have or is the engine on your picture accessible for you? I'm asking this because it looks like as if the oil feed is originating from a point somewhere near the IP.
Oilpressureswitch.jpg
 

iron_giant

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That picture is from all American Imports. Their kits tap the block for the return instead of the pan. If you don't want to use the above options (sender "T" or drill/tap) the only other solution I can think of would be to install a remote oil cooler and tap at the adapter for the filter. Or it should be possible to mill just the adapter for the filter with a tap for the feed. It would be clean oil directly to the turbo. I always like to run and oil pressure gauge at this junction so I know the pressure going to the turbo.
 
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Ron,
I had the same thought as you when doing mine... but ended up going to the sender. I have to say it was damn tight near the starter and a PITA to fit. I didn't drill the block for the return as I really didn't fancy doing it, but removed the sump and drilled it instead.
Gil
 

Ron R

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That picture is from all American Imports. Their kits tap the block for the return instead of the pan. If you don't want to use the above options (sender "T" or drill/tap) the only other solution I can think of would be to install a remote oil cooler and tap at the adapter for the filter. Or it should be possible to mill just the adapter for the filter with a tap for the feed. It would be clean oil directly to the turbo. I always like to run and oil pressure gauge at this junction so I know the pressure going to the turbo.
For the return I think I will be using the pan as well.
The option, drilling the lower block is similar to the original, as toyota does that as well, be it in a slightly different position, more to the front, but same hight. However thickness is a lot more than when you would go through the pan.


Ron,
I had the same thought as you when doing mine... but ended up going to the sender. I have to say it was damn tight near the starter and a PITA to fit. I didn't drill the block for the return as I really didn't fancy doing it, but removed the sump and drilled it instead.
Gil
How come you ended up at the sender location. Why didn't you use that location ? Availability of parts? Any other reason.

If I take the pan (sump) off, I might still drill the block for the return. But I think I've found a way to go through the pan without drilling, thus avoiding creating chips.
Advantage for me in this is that the pan can stay on and since I have to do all this in my driveway (windy conditions, living in coastal area), this is a big advantage. This way there is no risk of dirt settling on crankshaft etc.

For the feed I'm still thinking about drilling the block on the RH side. This is the location that Toyota uses as well.
My idea is to drill deep enough to be able to thread the hole, without drilling through. Then, when this is done, set pressure to the oil line (either using the connection of the oil filter or warninglightswitch) and then with a small drill, drill trough the last bit of the wall.

All kind of thoughts, still not sure :D:D
 
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I went for the recommended sender location as I was not sure about any other possibility... so played safe. I took the sump off and later realised why AAI go through the block :rolleyes: We did have a right angled drill adaptor but that got lost, and to be honest I preferred to drill the sump rather than the block - call me chicken, but I really didn't want the risk and the wondering if all the metal had been flushed out. I also did mine lying on my open car shelter, but not much wind or salt here. Interestingly George at AAI did not recommend an EGT, but did recommend a boost gauge.


For the return I think I will be using the pan as well.
The option, drilling the lower block is similar to the original, as toyota does that as well, be it in a slightly different position, more to the front, but same hight. However thickness is a lot more than when you would go through the pan.




How come you ended up at the sender location. Why didn't you use that location ? Availability of parts? Any other reason.

If I take the pan (sump) off, I might still drill the block for the return. But I think I've found a way to go through the pan without drilling, thus avoiding creating chips.
Advantage for me in this is that the pan can stay on and since I have to do all this in my driveway (windy conditions, living in coastal area), this is a big advantage. This way there is no risk of dirt settling on crankshaft etc.

For the feed I'm still thinking about drilling the block on the RH side. This is the location that Toyota uses as well.
My idea is to drill deep enough to be able to thread the hole, without drilling through. Then, when this is done, set pressure to the oil line (either using the connection of the oil filter or warninglightswitch) and then with a small drill, drill trough the last bit of the wall.

All kind of thoughts, still not sure :D:D
 

Ron R

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I went for the recommended sender location as I was not sure about any other possibility... so played safe. I took the sump off and later realised why AAI go through the block :rolleyes:
And that is...?

We did have a right angled drill adaptor but that got lost, and to be honest I preferred to drill the sump rather than the block - call me chicken, but I really didn't want the risk and the wondering if all the metal had been flushed out.
No, I won't call you chicken....this is my big nightmare as well....having metal parts in the system

I also did mine lying on my open car shelter, but not much wind or salt here. Interestingly George at AAI did not recommend an EGT, but did recommend a boost gauge.
I have ordered pyro and boost gauges...I'am using my rig not just for offroading but also tow a heavy campertrailer over quite some distances. Running big wheels this will load the engine, especially under headwindconditions or in mountainious areas and I really don't want to overload the engine....
The risk is not that high as I intent to run moderate to low boost, but hey, that's me, I want to know and be on the safe side....:D
 
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What I mean is I stayed with AAI's recommended oil feed! I realised why they drill the block (for oil return) - it has to be so much faster and easier than getting the sump off (the 30 bolts or whatever and silicon gasket is :mad:). But I still prefer the idea of taking it to the sump. Also with my drilling and taping you never know what chaos might ensue! I also fitted boost and EGT gauges as I really want to know what is going on, and I couldn't exactly pop down to a nearby Dyno diesel tuner to set it up... I don't know of a Dynometer in the whole country.



And that is...?


No, I won't call you chicken....this is my big nightmare as well....having metal parts in the system


I have ordered pyro and boost gauges...I'am using my rig not just for offroading but also tow a heavy campertrailer over quite some distances. Running big wheels this will load the engine, especially under headwindconditions or in mountainious areas and I really don't want to overload the engine....
The risk is not that high as I intent to run moderate to low boost, but hey, that's me, I want to know and be on the safe side....:D
 

crushers

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oil feed:
drop the starter
remove sender
install "T" or "L" adapter
if you go "T" then reinstall the oil sender into one end and the oil feed to the turbo at the other.
if you go "L" then install a "T" above and install the above.
run around behind the head to the turbo.
afix to the block so the line is snug
reinstall starter

at the turbo end:
install "T" into the turbo
install after market elec oil sender
intall feed line

drain:
mark where you want the return to go (directly below the turbo drain outlet)
drain oil
remove pan
inspect where the crank lobes are running and DO NOT locate in that area, you want it near the mains. the oil bath can retard the oil return and cause a back up.
drill
weld
clean
(replace BEBs while oil pan is off)
clean the block surface
clean the pan lip
install silicone
wait a coupel minutes for a film to form
install pan

run line from turbo to oil pan and secure properly

REFILL WITH OIL
(do not change filter at this time, wait for a 100K or so then change only the filter)

done.
IMG_2806.JPG
IMG_2805.JPG
IMG_2808.JPG
 

Ron R

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You shouldnt use that green sender for oil pressure supply.
Okay, but why not? As said before, it looks much easier then the pressure sender location so why isn't this location (the low pressure-switch location) being used?
 

Ron R

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oil feed:
drop the starter
.....

at the turbo end:
.......

drain:
........

REFILL WITH OIL
(do not change filter at this time, wait for a 100K or so then change only the filter)

done.
Thanks Wayne for your comprehensive overview :clap::clap::clap:

Have you an idea as why the pressure sender location is used instead of the pressure switch? Habit, because somebodey sometimes decided to?
 

Ron R

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What I mean is I stayed with AAI's recommended oil feed! I realised why they drill the block (for oil return) - it has to be so much faster and easier than getting the sump off (the 30 bolts or whatever and silicon gasket is :mad:). But I still prefer the idea of taking it to the sump. Also with my drilling and taping you never know what chaos might ensue! I also fitted boost and EGT gauges as I really want to know what is going on, and I couldn't exactly pop down to a nearby Dyno diesel tuner to set it up... I don't know of a Dynometer in the whole country.
Taking the pan off takes some time and has disadvantages.
But drilling the block has disadvantages as well. Where do the metal parts (resulting of the drilling) stay? Fall in the sump?
How to get them out without removing the sump?
Where does the feed originate according AAI's setup?
 
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