Oil feed 1HZ for turbo

Discussion in 'Diesel Tech / 24 volts' started by Ron R, Feb 11, 2009.

  1. Ron R

    Ron R Drive a Landruiser, enjoy life

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    I think I've read almost everything related to turbo-install there is on this forum
    One thing is not quite clear to me yet.....
    The oil feed..
    It looks as if everyone takes the feed from the oil pressure-sender location.
    Looking at the engine it looks as if the position where the pressureswitch for the oilwarning light is located is much more convenient.
    What is there to it that the pressure-sender location is used?
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2009
  2. Tapage

    Tapage Club 4X4 Panamá SILVER Star

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    If you search in my thread .. Marilu 2008 upgrades .. there is a pic that whow where is the pressure sender .. driver side ( for me LHD ) between the oil filter and firewall little lower ..
     
  3. Tapage

    Tapage Club 4X4 Panamá SILVER Star

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    here is ..

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Ron R

    Ron R Drive a Landruiser, enjoy life

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    Hi Tapage,
    Thanks for the picture.
    Yes, that is the Pressure sender location for my 1HZ engine.
    But it's pretty tight there and the oilpressure warningswitch is located at a more or less open space slightly above the oilfilterlocation and far more easily accessable.
    So the question that came up was: why not use that location?
    Is there some drawback to it I'm not aware off?
     
  5. Tapage

    Tapage Club 4X4 Panamá SILVER Star

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    In my case I don't think it's really better the warning swith location and then at the oil press port it's the factory place of reading .. ? so I wanna keep the same place and same readings .. ( or at least the same factory accuracy ) anycase supose the oil press it's same around the oil gallerys .. ?
     
  6. Ron R

    Ron R Drive a Landruiser, enjoy life

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    I think the pressure is the same in all lines, as long as you are in the main oil gallery.
    The warning light pressure switch and the pressure sender are on the same gallery AFAIK.
     
  7. iron_giant

    iron_giant SILVER Star

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    you can always drill and tap the block... :hmm:

    Just noticed it was the drain that is tapped into the block. I'll have a look tomorrow as I am slowly approaching the same conundrum.
    turbokit.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2009
  8. tlcruiserman

    tlcruiserman SILVER Star

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    The kits I use from Turbo-Glide, get oil for pressure sensor on LH side of block, then over the top and down to turbo, return is direct into oilpan. WORKS GREAT!!!

    Cheers,

    Michael
     
  9. Ron R

    Ron R Drive a Landruiser, enjoy life

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    Iron_giant and tlcruiserman,

    drilling and tapping the block would be great and no problem when it's out. However I must do with the engine in.
    Have even been thinking about drilling and tapping into the block for the oil feed. That has to be possible, but I'm afraid of getting metal chips in the channels.
    And yes, everyone uses the pressuresender location for the oil feed, buried somewhere deep down near the starter. But as you can see from the picture the pressure switch (left of the oil filter with the green connector) is far more easy to reach, so why not use that?
    There must be a problem I don't know of, or am I the first one to come up with that idea?:D


    Iron_giant, is this just a picture you have or is the engine on your picture accessible for you? I'm asking this because it looks like as if the oil feed is originating from a point somewhere near the IP.
    Oilpressureswitch.jpg
     
  10. iron_giant

    iron_giant SILVER Star

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    That picture is from all American Imports. Their kits tap the block for the return instead of the pan. If you don't want to use the above options (sender "T" or drill/tap) the only other solution I can think of would be to install a remote oil cooler and tap at the adapter for the filter. Or it should be possible to mill just the adapter for the filter with a tap for the feed. It would be clean oil directly to the turbo. I always like to run and oil pressure gauge at this junction so I know the pressure going to the turbo.
     
  11. gilghana

    gilghana

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    Ron,
    I had the same thought as you when doing mine... but ended up going to the sender. I have to say it was damn tight near the starter and a PITA to fit. I didn't drill the block for the return as I really didn't fancy doing it, but removed the sump and drilled it instead.
    Gil
     
  12. Ron R

    Ron R Drive a Landruiser, enjoy life

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    For the return I think I will be using the pan as well.
    The option, drilling the lower block is similar to the original, as toyota does that as well, be it in a slightly different position, more to the front, but same hight. However thickness is a lot more than when you would go through the pan.


    How come you ended up at the sender location. Why didn't you use that location ? Availability of parts? Any other reason.

    If I take the pan (sump) off, I might still drill the block for the return. But I think I've found a way to go through the pan without drilling, thus avoiding creating chips.
    Advantage for me in this is that the pan can stay on and since I have to do all this in my driveway (windy conditions, living in coastal area), this is a big advantage. This way there is no risk of dirt settling on crankshaft etc.

    For the feed I'm still thinking about drilling the block on the RH side. This is the location that Toyota uses as well.
    My idea is to drill deep enough to be able to thread the hole, without drilling through. Then, when this is done, set pressure to the oil line (either using the connection of the oil filter or warninglightswitch) and then with a small drill, drill trough the last bit of the wall.

    All kind of thoughts, still not sure :D:D
     
  13. gilghana

    gilghana

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    I went for the recommended sender location as I was not sure about any other possibility... so played safe. I took the sump off and later realised why AAI go through the block :rolleyes: We did have a right angled drill adaptor but that got lost, and to be honest I preferred to drill the sump rather than the block - call me chicken, but I really didn't want the risk and the wondering if all the metal had been flushed out. I also did mine lying on my open car shelter, but not much wind or salt here. Interestingly George at AAI did not recommend an EGT, but did recommend a boost gauge.


     
  14. Ron R

    Ron R Drive a Landruiser, enjoy life

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    And that is...?

    No, I won't call you chicken....this is my big nightmare as well....having metal parts in the system

    I have ordered pyro and boost gauges...I'am using my rig not just for offroading but also tow a heavy campertrailer over quite some distances. Running big wheels this will load the engine, especially under headwindconditions or in mountainious areas and I really don't want to overload the engine....
    The risk is not that high as I intent to run moderate to low boost, but hey, that's me, I want to know and be on the safe side....:D
     
  15. matt 105

    matt 105

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    You shouldnt use that green sender for oil pressure supply.
     
  16. gilghana

    gilghana

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    What I mean is I stayed with AAI's recommended oil feed! I realised why they drill the block (for oil return) - it has to be so much faster and easier than getting the sump off (the 30 bolts or whatever and silicon gasket is :mad:). But I still prefer the idea of taking it to the sump. Also with my drilling and taping you never know what chaos might ensue! I also fitted boost and EGT gauges as I really want to know what is going on, and I couldn't exactly pop down to a nearby Dyno diesel tuner to set it up... I don't know of a Dynometer in the whole country.



     
  17. crushers

    crushers post ho

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    oil feed:
    drop the starter
    remove sender
    install "T" or "L" adapter
    if you go "T" then reinstall the oil sender into one end and the oil feed to the turbo at the other.
    if you go "L" then install a "T" above and install the above.
    run around behind the head to the turbo.
    afix to the block so the line is snug
    reinstall starter

    at the turbo end:
    install "T" into the turbo
    install after market elec oil sender
    intall feed line

    drain:
    mark where you want the return to go (directly below the turbo drain outlet)
    drain oil
    remove pan
    inspect where the crank lobes are running and DO NOT locate in that area, you want it near the mains. the oil bath can retard the oil return and cause a back up.
    drill
    weld
    clean
    (replace BEBs while oil pan is off)
    clean the block surface
    clean the pan lip
    install silicone
    wait a coupel minutes for a film to form
    install pan

    run line from turbo to oil pan and secure properly

    REFILL WITH OIL
    (do not change filter at this time, wait for a 100K or so then change only the filter)

    done.
    IMG_2806.JPG IMG_2805.JPG IMG_2808.JPG
     
  18. Ron R

    Ron R Drive a Landruiser, enjoy life

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    Okay, but why not? As said before, it looks much easier then the pressure sender location so why isn't this location (the low pressure-switch location) being used?
     
  19. Ron R

    Ron R Drive a Landruiser, enjoy life

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    Thanks Wayne for your comprehensive overview :clap::clap::clap:

    Have you an idea as why the pressure sender location is used instead of the pressure switch? Habit, because somebodey sometimes decided to?
     
  20. Ron R

    Ron R Drive a Landruiser, enjoy life

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    Taking the pan off takes some time and has disadvantages.
    But drilling the block has disadvantages as well. Where do the metal parts (resulting of the drilling) stay? Fall in the sump?
    How to get them out without removing the sump?
    Where does the feed originate according AAI's setup?
     
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